TRex Models
03-10-2007 | 09:43 PM
#1
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From: Palos Heights,
IL
TRex Models
Can someone help???? I did a search but nothing specific came up...
And reading 58 pages of the TRex thread is a daunting task!
I’m still a beginner and would like to eventually do some mild 3D. So, after much research, I decided that my next heli purchase will be a TRex 450.
What I need to know: What does the model designations S, SA, SE, X, XL mean? I know that the SE is the top of the line, but where do the other models fall?
Also what is CDE and HDE?
I plan on getting a Spektrum DX7 for the this heli.
What other equipment is recommended? (I don’t have an unlimited budget, but I could piece it together little by little.)
Thanks for the help!
And reading 58 pages of the TRex thread is a daunting task!
I’m still a beginner and would like to eventually do some mild 3D. So, after much research, I decided that my next heli purchase will be a TRex 450.
What I need to know: What does the model designations S, SA, SE, X, XL mean? I know that the SE is the top of the line, but where do the other models fall?
Also what is CDE and HDE?
I plan on getting a Spektrum DX7 for the this heli.
What other equipment is recommended? (I don’t have an unlimited budget, but I could piece it together little by little.)
Thanks for the help!
03-10-2007 | 10:02 PM
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From: Oxford,
OH
RE: TRex Models
I know it may sound expensive in the begining...but, go for the SE. It will save you a bunch of cash in the end. I bought a 450S as my first Trex..fell in love with it and crashed it alot. I upgraded all the parts that kept breaking and spent way more than an SE would have cost if I had just bought it first. Plus, the metal parts have less slop and perform way better.
As for CDE OR HDE:
CDE has direct linkage from the servo to the swash plate= very fast slop free control
HDE uses levers conected to the servo then to linkage to the swash= more possibilty for slop and a little slower.
If you get the DX7, You'll want CCPM CDE. and set your expo to 30% on aileron and elevator to make the heli less skitish
I highly recommend 325 wood blades, then won't do as much damage to the heli in a crash and are pretty cheap $12 a pair. The extra length gives a more stable hover.
As for CDE OR HDE:
CDE has direct linkage from the servo to the swash plate= very fast slop free control
HDE uses levers conected to the servo then to linkage to the swash= more possibilty for slop and a little slower.
If you get the DX7, You'll want CCPM CDE. and set your expo to 30% on aileron and elevator to make the heli less skitish
I highly recommend 325 wood blades, then won't do as much damage to the heli in a crash and are pretty cheap $12 a pair. The extra length gives a more stable hover.
03-11-2007 | 11:32 AM
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From: Naperville,
IL
RE: TRex Models
I started on a Blade CP. I crashed a lot while learning how to fly it. Once I mastered it, I decided to move up to a Trex. I went with the SE after reading so many forums and per the recommendations of many. I'm glad I got the SE. It's a blast to fly, and is very stable, and I love the carbon fiber frame and blue anodized parts. It looks as good as it flies.
As far as other recommended equipment. Go with the Futaba GY401 and digital 9650 tail servo. You'll be amazed at how well this combo holds the tail in place. Hovering is almost boring with this setup.
Doug
As far as other recommended equipment. Go with the Futaba GY401 and digital 9650 tail servo. You'll be amazed at how well this combo holds the tail in place. Hovering is almost boring with this setup.
Doug
