Power switch mod...
#1
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From: miami,
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So I got tired of having to fight with positining the deans plug and wires in such a way that it wouldn't give me a hard time putting the canonpy on. Not to mention the trouble of connecting the deans plug itself. So I went to an auto parts store and bought a 30amp illuminated power switch, wired it up with som deans plugs on both ends, mounted it on the upper tray and voila!!!
[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/psychictongue/Helicopter/?action=view¤t=switchtest.flv]Here is a vid of it in action....[/link] Im going to cut a slot in the canopy so I can just reach in and activate the switch.
[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b259/psychictongue/Helicopter/?action=view¤t=switchtest.flv]Here is a vid of it in action....[/link] Im going to cut a slot in the canopy so I can just reach in and activate the switch.
#2
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From: Goldsboro,
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I guess 30 amps is enough. Not sure about my 5000 mah 6 cell lipo though. I sure hate trying to connect the deans plugs. BIG spark and somebody told me you had to change them about each 100 connects due to pitting, corrosion, etc. How about the lamp in the switch? What battery is it running off of, the big one? In my case that means 25.3 volts unless I wire it differently so the light runs off the ultimate BEC.
#3
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From: miami,
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Well I only run 3cell Lipos (11.1v) 3 GWS 2100mah packs and a Thuinder Power 1350mah pack. The bulb in the switch runs off thew current being pumped through the switch itself. As for wiring its a 3 wire hook-up. Power, load, and ground.
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From: miami,
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Parts needed:
30 amp DC illumated rocker switch ([link=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103602&cp=&sr=1&origkw=switch &kw=switch&parentPage=search]Radio Shack cat# 275-712[/link])
Pair of Deans Plugs
Some switchPower wire (preferably some red and some black)
Crimp connectors (unless you want to solder the wire directly to the switch like I did)
Heat shrink tubing to make the job look professional.
Im not going to do a step by step because its pretty self explanatory when you look at the label on the switch (one connector is power, one goes to the load, and the last one is ground). I used the Deans connector that way I could eliminate the switch system at any time.
As for the durability of this switch and the possibilty of it failing midflight.... This is the same type of switch I have used for years back when I used to do custom audio/video installations in cars. The failure ratre of these switches is probably 1 in 100000 cycles.
30 amp DC illumated rocker switch ([link=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103602&cp=&sr=1&origkw=switch &kw=switch&parentPage=search]Radio Shack cat# 275-712[/link])
Pair of Deans Plugs
Some switchPower wire (preferably some red and some black)
Crimp connectors (unless you want to solder the wire directly to the switch like I did)
Heat shrink tubing to make the job look professional.
Im not going to do a step by step because its pretty self explanatory when you look at the label on the switch (one connector is power, one goes to the load, and the last one is ground). I used the Deans connector that way I could eliminate the switch system at any time.
As for the durability of this switch and the possibilty of it failing midflight.... This is the same type of switch I have used for years back when I used to do custom audio/video installations in cars. The failure ratre of these switches is probably 1 in 100000 cycles.




