My first two helis where a little eflight coaxial and a Blade Cp Pro (that has been pretty well hopped up). I just got my first Trex via UPS Tuesday evening. I did the entire build yesterday.

I must say, I am nearly dumbfounded by the quality of the manufacture. There are some ways the kits and instructions could be improved a bit, they certainly were far from bad, but the quality of the parts..... all I can say is wow.

Every piece fit perfectly. Every holed lined up without any force. Every screw threaded without effort (well getting the ball links on the ends of threaded rods is always a pain, but that is no complaint). Every mechanism was buttery smooth immediately upon assembly. They pretty much made a seperate little bag of parts for each sub section of the assembly manual (now that is incredibly convenient).

For the guys that already own these, this is obviously not news. For all the guys who are reading this who are still reading and wishing (me until 2 days ago), this is a simply an amazing piece of engineering and precision manufacturing.

The 'compaints':
The text in the assembly manual could be made more clear in spots
Some of the drawings would be better replaced with photos
The diagrams showing the servo links are drawn at 90% scale or so.... why no just do 100% scale so the initial lengths could be set by laying the real link on top of the image?
Some of the pre-assembled sections were not properly lock tighted (it kind of defeats the purpose of pre-assembly if I have take that work back apart)

Very minor complaints (except the missing thread lock) and the directions were plenty clear enough for me to get the job done in a day)

I'd also say it would be nice if they threw in a Deans connector (or similar) for between the battery and ESC.

Overall, I can hardly believe how much I got for the $409 (plus shipping) I paid for the SE V2 kit with 325 Pro (wood) blades. If you are pondering this purchase and have doubts about the kit quality or your ability to properly assemble..... I'd say forget the worries and buy.

I've got the radio installed, ESC, and 3 rotor servos. I'll pick up the tail servo and gyro this even and (hopefully) test fly.

ETA: And the build photos--> http://www.hurstphoto.biz/heli/

Cool! You will love it!
What servos and gyro are you putting in it?
Vince

Where did you buy it?

I watched Finless's overview of the SE V2 and it does appear to be engineered very well. The video points out some of the more minute and not-so-minute details that Finless says should improve performance. The SE V2 even has a platform on the bottom of the boom clamp for the gyro, something that required flipping the clamp over and/or trimming the frame and/or adding a plexiglass platform on the SE.

I put the HS65-MGs in for the rotor last night. I'll be adding a GY-401 and HS-9560 (or 9650 can't remember), this evening.

Receiver is the Futaba DP-148

This guy's ebay store --> http://stores.ebay.com/JOHN-HOBBY-WO...eNameZl4QQtZkm

personally, i install the electronics before i build the Trex

ie, i install the servos before the upperframe goes into the bottomframe so i can tear the bearing block off and route the wires inside the frame.

i use a swashplate level tool instead of measuring the linkages. i build all the head linkages with according to a pitch gauge rather than measuring the links.

i finish the tail before i attach it to the heli. without the 401 (will be the same as non avcs mode), i setup the servo and its mechanical center and then plug in the 401 to adjust the limit pot.

btw, if you want to make ball links easy, use an exacto knife stick the tip into the bottom, give it a good twist, and then the rods will thread effortlessly.

you shouldn't need instructions to build an SE...

btw, the stock dampers aren't so durable. i would upgrade them with the aftermarket or silicon fuel tubing as they will probably only last 10 flights if even that. Pay VERY close attention to the belt tension on a new trex align belts need kind of a break in or they WILL snap. They stretch in the beginning and you need to run it a little tighter than normal until it does then you adjust it until it is good. you'll know if you snap one. buy the HDX/3DX450 aftermarket clone belts which are made by GATES or MS.

id run the heli without blades for a good 5 minutes before flying it just to stretch the belt and make sure it's tensioned correctly. the belt should almost be able to touch the other side if you press it with a tip of a screwdriver 1.5cm away from the pulley.

use the smaller pinion on the 430XL. i would cut a flatspot in the shaft of the motor so the pinion doesnt slip or fly off.

I noted during assembly that if I had to build another one, I would install the electronics as I went, rather than at the end. It would be much easier, I agree.

Even using a swash level and pitch gauge, you would still save a lot of time setting the link length to the ballpark before you started.

Nice trick on the reeming the ball link holes a bit, I'll try that next time I have to put some together.

Whether they are needed or not, one would be crazy (imho) to not consult the directions on a first time build.

The V2 has a totally new damper design, 'square' rings rather than o-rings, if you will. Any word on their durability?

well i built so many trex that i could do it with my eyes closed. i can get the ball park link lengths pretty much by looking at it.

the

1) servos centered and subtrimmed level for good geometry, left stick centered on default curves
2) level the swash and it sets the correct height, adjust links to this tool
3) washout should be level/flatline therefore adjust the 2 flybar cage links
4) macro links should have a about 3-4 twists away from touching
5) adjust micro links to the pitch gauge=0deg
6) setup max/min collective pitch using default curves, adjust pitch ECCPM%
7) setup cyclic pitch of approx 6deg, adjust ail/ele ecppm% (phase blades at 12/6 and 3/9oclock)

the heli will track perfectly and have minimal eccpm interaction at this point, i don't even have to fly it to know it'll come out good.

as for the dampers, i replaced mine with fuel tubing before i ever spun it up. they dont last long especially if youre flying hard. hard 3d will probably kill it in ONE flight.

if i have to mass produce RTF Trex for the store, this is how i do it. I do it on a consistent basis, and it always comes out perfect.

There is none listed there now. Oh well, no matter: I know of another source that's around the same price range (myrcsupply.com).

He had 9 in stock when I bought....

The stock screws is not durable at all. Sooner or later, I'm pretty sure some of your screw will fail, just like me.
Some people use aftermarket screws.

Put in flights 1 and 2 this evening. Just a few minutes each.

Flight 1 was up and down several times to bump the trims and gyro gain on the gound. Then a couple laps our the yard. Holy cow that thing is fast compared to a BCPPro.

(video here --> http://www.hurstphoto.biz/heli/firstFlight.AVI )

Second flight was pure hover, as the light was getting a little weak to get to far away. I brought up it into idle 1 for the entire flight. I had it sitting cross wind to 5 - 15 mph winds. Hard to believe how solid it felt.

I had 40% expo on all 3 axis. I dropped it on yaw, altogether, now. Pitch and Roll I dropped to 20%. I'll see how I like that tomorrow.

Overall, totally thrilled.

Scott