Used 10% cool Power, a Bisson Pitts muffler, and OS F plug. Carb was the Perry (non pump).

Turned a 17 x 8 APC 9000 rpm , measured with a TNC tach.

After 1/2 gallon of breaking in w/ Sig 5% fuel, my Super Tigre 2300 turns the following on 5% nitro Wildcat fuel:

APC 18x6W @ 8500 RPM
APC 17x6 @ 9700 RPM

Same setup, Pro Zinger 18x6 @ 8200 RPM[&o]

With 15% Omega fuel, G2300 will swing APC 18x6W @ 8500 rpm. It will accelerate vertically a 13-lb. plane, but not spectularly.

Do you have any idea what OS carb would fit on a ST 2300

The carb for OS 108 would fit, as i was told, 7D if I remember it correctly.

Bolly 19x6 carbon fiber prop, 5% Omega fuel, OS #8 plug: 9200 rpm, 17 lb. pull

"Bolly 19x6 carbon fiber prop.... 9200 rpm"

WHOA!!! [X(] For real ????

[:-]

Yes, the Bolly 19x6 has less load than APC 18x6W. Yes. It even shot up to 9400 briefly, but stably I can get it at 9200. The Bolly 19x6 is not as wide when it get toward the tip; that's why it picks up quite a bit of RPM.

What carb and muffler are you running?

Stock carb, BCM Pitts muffler, Perry Oscillating Pump, tank @ CG

I have an offer to buy one of these G2300 NIB, at a pretty good price, but wasn't there a carb problem, as I have only heard this, don't own one yet. And if replaced, is it the Perry that is preferred ???

"And if replaced, is it the Perry that is preferred ???"

what is preferred is the stock carb with the correct (non-dogleg) groove in the barrel....

[:-]

The Conley Mega carb (non-pumped) works very well on this engine. The best of any carb....and I tried quite a few. I sold a Sig Cap with this engine to a youngster at our field at the end of last year. I told him don't touch the needles on the carb, and he's followed my advice. Easy starts, plenty of power, excellent throttle response, and it never goes dead stick until he runs it out of fuel. Equipped with OS-F plug and the Bisson Pitts muffler with one outlet plugged.

I'm getting 9,500 stock
16x8
10% cool power
4 1/2" spinner

Does this seem low?

Seems just right to me.
With Powermaster 10% /22% oil.
OS "F" plug
APC 16-8 9.5K
APC 18-6 8.7K
MA Classic 18-8 8.1K

Great to hear, I just got the engine broken in today and its running perfect. I went 20 minutes on one of my break in runs on 16oz of fuel, running the throttle up and down a lot, I figure I will be able to fly 10 minutes with a safe reserve.

Just picked up a old\new built Super Sportster with a ST 2300, the old one from Italy. The planes never been flown, and the engine has never seen fuel. I was told 0-5% only, but I read here that quite a few of you use other. Also, I think this one has the "dogleg" groove in the barrel, so I am looking at replacing that. But what was the problem with this carb design?

Thanks, Greg

The problem is that it is poorly designed, but can be fixed as it is. The carb body is drilled smaller under the barrel, that kills fuel draw. The dogleg was an attempt to compensate for that flaw. All you have to do is bore the body the same size as the barrel and grind the cam-slot straight. It then will be a very good carb, although still too big for anything under 9000rpm. These mods will make your carb just like the new ones. The newest ones have a restrictor sleeve in the barrel to improve its fuel draw, I consider it a must have for 3D flying. I burn 5%CoolPower and turn an APC 15-10 at 9400 with great idle, clean transition, and a very consistent needle. It pulls an 11lb Ultrasport out of your arms vertically with that non-3D prop.

Anyone hear about or try the Jett carb on this engine?

Thanks for the comeback KWeasle,

I will correspond with you offline on the carb fix specifics. A follow up question though: Are you using a Perry diaphram pump with this? That was the other thing I was told that was needed to make this beast run cleanly... As always, any input is greatly appreciated..... Thanks in advance, Greg

I do not use a pump or regulator. Fixing the original is not too hard but does require some time and skill to do a good job. Buying a good OS, Jett, or Perry carb is easier plus it can be used on many different engines, plus you can sell them for nearly as much as they cost. Remember that the carb size and rpm will make the difference between an engine that you will love or one that you hate. Smaller carb and more rpm is always better for reliability.

Smaller carb and more rpm do not go hand in hand. Bigger carb usually gives more rpm

Don't fool around with the 2300 carb, just toss it and get another carb. The new carb isn't a total fix but it makes the engine metter. I get around 9000 with a 17X6 and Magnum 108 carb. I have tried other fixes for this engine also but the carb and onboard glow worked the best.

I was looking online for the replacement carb one late night\early morning and found the 108 was around $70. IF I could fix the original carb as KWeasle boasts, thats money I could spend on..... fuel !!! BUT, if its truly a pain in the ars, I'd pay the $70 to avoid the headaches and deadsticks ..... Greg