liquid_TR

If the transition is not satisfactory then chances are you are running the low end very rich. This engine has the classic 2 stroke gas engine sound of rat-ta-ta in low-mid to low rpms with a Bisson pitts muffler. This may be percieved as knocking sound by mistake. I suggest you run a fuel with a little castor oil which may help settle it down a little. Try it all over again without the perry pump, but make sure you have similar level of height between fuel tank and carburator.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Calvin,

Where is the fuel tank mounted? Ditch the pump, set the low end so the idle screw is even with the inner recessed chamfer (not flush with the outer edge of the carb body) in the carb body for a good starting point. Adjust the high end for peak, back down 300 rpm, then check idle and transition. Let me know if this helps. Did you break it in and do the initial set up on a test stand?

I do not recommend running this engine on straight synthetic fuel.

cde

Thanks for the response! The tank is mounted right behind the firewall. I am using large diameter fuel tubing as well (I can change that). The engine was broken in on the plane..perhaps still being broken in but we ran it on the ground for 3 tanks first. My needle is mounted on the engine, should I move the needle? What type of fuel do you recommend or should I just add an ounce or two to a fresh new gallon? Im currently running Coolpower 15% synthetic. ....also, Im using an 18x6w prop. I can ditch to pump too. I'll tell you, that knocking sound is pathetic! ha! Thank you for your feedback
Calvin

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Calvin,

I would add 4oz Sig or Klotz castor to a gallon. When I ran both of my engines on the test stand on Byron 5% nitro, 20% oil they ran great from the get go. Performed the breakin per the instructions and also allowed the engine to cool completely between runs like to the Mehanite piston days. I've found the best way to see how an engine runs is on the test stand.

The large tubing can slip off the fittings, leak fuel or suck air. Even a Moki 2.10 runs medium size tubing. I have the needle valve mounted to the back plate of the engines.

I tried running this engine with a Cline regulator and also with a Jett in cowl turbo muffler. Neither provided satisfactory flights. The regulator caused the needle to become critical as did the turbo muffler. The turbo muffler did act as a pipe but it was very hard to tune, I never landed without a dead stick whereas I never had a dead stick landing running the engines otherwise.

I have had the best luck with the stock muffler or a Bisson ST 4500 or BGX pitts muffler. They have more volume than a Bisson 160 pitts muffler and provide more rpm and allow the engine to run cooler. I close off one muffler outlet with a 1/2" copper pipe cap siliconed and screwed in place. The best muffler for this engine is the Jtec Dual snuffler. It's a bit heavy but extremely quiet and provides a rpm increase.

I have 40 hours flight time on one engine and about 10 on the other. I've carefully run these engines with APC 19X8w and Mejzlik 20X6 props using the large volume mufflers, castor blend fuel and baffled cowls but I garranty they would have been ruined running straight synth, the standard Bisson pitts muffler and no baffles.

These are good engines but you need to use some castor and a tach to set the rpm 300 rich if you want to have them last. Always use an inline fuel filter from the tank to the carb even if you filter from the jug. Crap can get sucked into the fuel tank thru the vent line.

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Calvin,
I do run the VP 30 and with 15% Coolpower. I had the same the same problem with the midrange clanging and tried the same things you did with the pump and richening the low end. The noise went away when I changed the prop and loaded the engine a little more. I went from a Mejzlik carbon fiber 18X10 at 8200rpm to an APC 18.1X10 at 7850 and the noise disappeared.... Friend Bob had the same noise with an APC 17X8. We changed the prop to an 18X10 and Voila, Noise Gone! I know you application may dictate the 18X6 but try loading the motor a little more and let us all know what you find out. As far as castor or not Ive seen the 140RX go through 2 to 3 seasons of intense pattern practice at 60 to 80 gal a year
on Coolpower 15% before needing only a bearing change.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

rc11,

Why are you using a pump? Loading the engine may help the rattle but I only had the condition with the idle screw too lean.

After I purchased my first 160fx back in 2000 several people at my flying field purchased this engine and they all performed well with one exception. I broke that one engine in for the owner originally because he liked the way mine ran. It ran perfectly, as well or better than my own. He decided Coolpower and large fuel tubing was the way to go, maybe based on what he read on the forums? It had one or more lean runs. The piston was galled just aft of the exhaust port, scoring the cylinder, ruining the piston, liner and ring. Hobby services repaired it once and the same thing happened again to the same engine on the same fuel within two weeks. I bought the fried engine, rebuilt it and it runs flawlessly in my plane running Byron castor/synth blend fuel, go figure. Was it the fuel, the tuning by the owner, the install? All I know is the engne performs flawlessly for me.

Flown these engines with an apc 17X8W, 18X6W, 19X8W, Bolly 18X10, Bolly 16.5X10 three blade (very quiet) or Mejzlik 20X6 on Byron fuel. I used to fly 15% nitro but now run 5%. I don't need the extra power and they run fine, less chance of rust and I save a few bucks a gallon.

Try setting the low/midrange adjustment screw as described and add some castor. Properly tuned with the correct muffler, the engine should be able to idle for at least five minutes and then excellerate with only a slight one half second hesitation to full throttle. Of course it will excellerate cleanly thereafter.

I'm not a pattern guy, but do enjoy precision scale aerobatics. 20 cases of fuel a year? Holy crap! Do they ever spend time with the family?

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

PlaneKrazee,
The pump works for me. Tank is on the CG. Check out Jon Lowe Cookbook on the OS160 @ RCaerobats.com. Once set up right with the pump you should'nt have" the lean run". Flip And Fly.

gmccluskey

Does anyone know the OS part number for the pressure fitting that can be installed to replace one of the backplate screws. The only part I can find is the pressure tap for the 1.4EFX (29407300) and it is 4mm. While the manual says the screws are 3.5 mm??

Any help would be appreciated

grizzlyadams

Re the backplate screws I am pretty sure they are 4mm but you can get a 3.5mm one here
http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/woi0001p?&I=OSMG6991 and the 4mm one http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/w...I=TOWC8300&P=7

anyway just look at the os parts list page at omnimodels

gmccluskey

Thanks for the reply, I removed one bolt on my engine and it is 4 mm. I gess the manual is wrong on Tower's web page. I also noticed that my back plate doesn't have the large boss on the backside like some of the photos I've seen. There must be several versions.

George

burnie1

Hi guys,
Probably not the right place for this question but thought you would know the answer. Can someone tell me the length from the centre of the exhaust port to the rear end of the standard muffler? need to know if it will fit within the cowl.
Thanks
Andrew

cde

I measured my 1.60fx center of exhaust port to end of muffler and it's 6 7/8 inches give or take a hair. (and that's counting the nut on the end of the muffler holding the two halves together) Hope that helps

Calvin

burnie1

Thanks very much

cde

Hey for an update, I am using 5% nitro and it made a noticable difference in reducing the noise, Im using a 17x8 prop. I just could not tune out the ratt-tatt-tatt with my low needle unless I richened a lot and sacrificed my idle and throttle transistion. (which cost me a dead stick at the end of the runway and in the rocks I went) Anyway, is there a carb out there with mid range adjustment that may fit?? thanks!

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Hi 1.60 lovers,
The Tower # for the EFI tap is LXWY11 @$6.29. All the bearing #s and the best info available can be found at RCaerobats.com under the Jon Lowe Cookbook. He has this thing perfected! Follow his info and you can't miss! Flip and Fly!
RC11

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I ran my 160 for the first time with the OS muffler instead of the Bisson Pitts. It is currently mounted inverted and I have a Xoar 18x6 on it. It is turning 8400 with 10% XP fuel. I was able to tune out the midrange rattle with the OS muffler. The problem is that the carb is too low in relation to the tank and I cannot change either one due to the construction of the plane. To solve the problem I am going to get a new cowl and mount the engine sideways and try a Slimline pitts and the Bisson pitts as well again. I will see which gives the best performance and the least amount of midrange rattle. I have ordered an A5 plug to see if it helps if I do get some rattle again with the pitts.

Howard

My Feedback: (55)

Is there a preference for either the Bisson or the slimline pitts muffler (running horizontal or inverted) with the OS 160 FX? If there is then can you tell me what the reasoning is for the preference. I am planning for a GP Giant Super Sportster and an OS 160 FX without using regulators or pumps. Thanks

Howard

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

I recommend a Bisson OS BGX or ST 4500 pitts muffler with one outlet completely blanked off and a Hobbico exhaust diverter installed on the remaining outlet. The engine will run well, sound good and the plane will stay clean. This recommendation comes from personal experience running 5-15% nitro (making carb adjustments for each percentage) and not using a pump or regulator (tank mounted directly behind engine).

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

New set up ...

hornet dave

I recently swapped out my Bisson Pitts muffler for a double mountain dew aluminum bottle muffler and custom made header using KS tubes and flange. I picked up 300-350 rpm on the APC 18X6X. Now it's reading 8850 - 8900 on wildcat 10% xtra fuel. It's also quieter, too.

tony0707

HI just read all the postslooks like the 16-12 / 17-10 and 18-8 APC will all work well here turning about the same RPMS give or take a little a 16 oz tank is good for 15 minutes-run 5/ 32 brass fuel tubing -the large neopreme fuel tubing from a large klunk to the needle valveand large tubing from nv to carb-if the tank is close behind the engine3/8 inch above or below the carbno pump is neededgetting the low end of a glo engine set right is the key to enjoying these engines trouble free

tony0707

HI to set the low end of a GLO engine -DO TRY THIS run the engine about 400 RPMS over an idleturn the low end out with a long thin screwdriver-with the engine running until it does not sound smoothnow turn the needle valve in until the engine starts to run smoother and smoothergo back to idle now run up to top end and pinch the fuel line closed-the engine will run up to its max top RPMlisten for that soundnow set the top end just short (lower ) than that sounduse a tach here to record that RPM- -go back to an idlelet it idle for 5 seconds-now open the throttle quickly to full borethe engine should run up clean and fast- if it is rightif it stumbleslean the low end -only 1/8 turn at a time run full bore and squeeze the fuel line to set the top againdo this until you get the clean transition from idle you are looking for- (engine should screem from idle to top end RPM ) go fly the planeif the engine dies when you throttle up or if you hear surging in the air the engine is to lean so land and make richer if you go dead stik -note -if you were mid range or full boredo check the head temp -with your hand ASAP after landing (just tap it with you hand-or you will get burned )-if you head is very hot you were leanif you went dead stik at midrange-your low end was to lean-if dead at full bore -the top end is to leanfollowing the above proceedure will get your engine in tune and prevent any engine running problemsalso if a glo engine runs hotyou could have an air leaktighten the head-look for a tank leak or a hole in the fuel lines-heat and aluminum engines do not exist well together REGARDS TONY

smitty5688

My Feedback: (8)

So after reading this entire thread, I am going to go with the VP-30 Pump and Bison Pitts. For the prop, should I go with a Pro Zinger 18X6 APC 18X6w, or Mejzlik 18X6? Seems like this will give me around 18lb of thrust from what other results have been. Thanks for any opinons on this setup.

-Pat

Americo

Has anyone tried running a three or four-bladed prop on this engine? If so, I'd like the information on size, manufacturer, and thrust. Thinking about putting one on my F4U corsair.Regards.

Americo.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

Bolly 16.5X10 three blade carbon. 7800 rpm, jtec duel snuffler.