Please post Saito 125 rpms..
#6


With 72 oz. of 10% Cool Power fuel and a Master Airscrew 16X6 I was seeing 9000 RPM, and may have a few hundred more in hand when fully leaned out and/or broken in more completely. Interesting to note the literature with the engine indicates 9000 on a 16X6 prop
.
This is at sea level and 70F weather.
John C

This is at sea level and 70F weather.
John C
#8

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I tached my Saito 1.25 today, using a 16x4W APC. It was ~80*F ~50% humdity, and ~500 ft. above sea level. Peak RPM was just over 10,000, and idle was at 2100 RPM. It probably has about a gallon of fuel through it so far.
I was going to tach it with a 16x6 APC, but it started raining. I'll try that one later.
I was going to tach it with a 16x6 APC, but it started raining. I'll try that one later.
#9
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Hey, I broke mine in from the book. Does anyone think my engine's a lemon if I'm getting 8k from a 16x6 using 15% cool power and 2500ft. 80 degrees and 70% humidity?
I get the same rpm from a 16x8 Mejzlik, and 16.5x5w APC as well. Any suggestions?
thanks - nate
I get the same rpm from a 16x8 Mejzlik, and 16.5x5w APC as well. Any suggestions?
thanks - nate
#12

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Do you mean that you turned the lowspeed 2.5 turns out? Or, did you go all the way in until the set screw stopped?
The extra nitro may give you a few hundred more RPMs, but that sounds like a patch to a tuning problem that needs to be fixed first.
The extra nitro may give you a few hundred more RPMs, but that sounds like a patch to a tuning problem that needs to be fixed first.
#14

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Absolutely. The LS affects throttle up to around 85% and does have an effect on the high end as well. If your engine is showing a lot of smoke, it is too rich. A well tuned Saito doesn't have much of a smoke trail like other 4 strokes.
The 2.5 turns out doesn't really mean anything. Each engine requires different settings based on peak RPM. It does sound like your low speed is too rich even though it transitions well.
I would suggest peaking your HS to max RPM and leave it there. Then, start leaning your LS in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment, slowly advance the throttle and listen to performance. Then, advance it a bit quicker to check. Keep doing this until you reach a point where the engine seems to hesitate or stumble. Richen it back about 1/16 turn and check again. You may have to do this a few times to get the LS just right. When done, go back and check your peak HS RPM. Richen by at least 300 RPM.
The 2.5 turns out doesn't really mean anything. Each engine requires different settings based on peak RPM. It does sound like your low speed is too rich even though it transitions well.
I would suggest peaking your HS to max RPM and leave it there. Then, start leaning your LS in 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment, slowly advance the throttle and listen to performance. Then, advance it a bit quicker to check. Keep doing this until you reach a point where the engine seems to hesitate or stumble. Richen it back about 1/16 turn and check again. You may have to do this a few times to get the LS just right. When done, go back and check your peak HS RPM. Richen by at least 300 RPM.
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Sounds about right, but 1 thing. Does the LS needle affect the performance at 100% throttle?. I don't think the LS needle will give me an extra 1000 rpm. Richening and or leaning the HS needle only slows the engine down at this point. BUT if adjusting the LS needle affects it at 100% Throttle than I'll dink with it. Thank for the help.
-nate
-nate
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WF, the LS needle can effect the engine performance at full throttle if is too lean, it will render the HS needle ineffective. You can figure this out very quickly if you can't richen the HS needle enough to make it smoke. Here is a procedure I use to set the LS needle, (best done on a test stand) use a tach and set the HS needle for absolute peak and leave it there temporarily. Next procede to lean the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time testing the transition and top speed after every other change, as the engine idles faster from the better setting, close the throttle to keep the idle speed about where you want it. I like to set the engine to idle slower than I'm actually to use it. If the engine hesitates when opening the throttle you're just a little lean, (on the LS needle) richen it up about 1/8th turn. Then set you HS needle for whatever slightly richer rpm at which. you run it
#21

ORIGINAL: Johnmpa
Saito 125 with a 15X6 Masterairsrew Classic - about 9200-9500 rpm. With a 16X8, about 8500rpm.
Saito 125 with a 15X6 Masterairsrew Classic - about 9200-9500 rpm. With a 16X8, about 8500rpm.
Seems like I remember my Saito 100 turning over 9000 rpms with the 15x6 APC, but my memory might be wrong.
The numbers do seem to reflect that the 125 is on the weak side for it's displacement.
When the 125 first came out Saito listed props for it up to a 17x6. Maybe that has been revised?[sm=confused.gif]
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YG, here is recommendation straight from the Horizon Site.
Benchmark Prop: 16x6 @ 9000 rpm
Prop Range: 15x7 thru 17x6
Graupner 15x8===9,190
Graupner 14x11==8,750
APC 14x12=====8,555
These are some recent numbers for my 1.25.
Benchmark Prop: 16x6 @ 9000 rpm
Prop Range: 15x7 thru 17x6
Graupner 15x8===9,190
Graupner 14x11==8,750
APC 14x12=====8,555
These are some recent numbers for my 1.25.
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I am putting a saito 125 on a 60 inch profile and I need a good three blade prop for 3d flight. i know the 3 blade won't be the best performing prop but I need the extra ground clearance and at 5.5lbs the plane is already going to be grossly overpowered. Does anyone know where I can get maybe a 15x5 or 16x4 3 blade. I know zinger has them but I don't really care for their standard props. Any ideas?