Bme 50
#7

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From: Fort Smith,
AR
Today flew the plane, this time with a moki 22x10 prop, all I can say is wow, by far the best prop for this airframe and motor. Tached at 7300, third gallon of fuel, only will get better I hope. I highly recommend this Moki Prop for the engine.
#8
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Everyone seems to be getting a lot more rpm than I am. I have only one gallon through it and it's getting 6400 on a 22x8 Zinger Pro. It also seems like it's running hot. I've got hardly any vertical. My plane weighs 16.5 lbs and the muffler is a Slimline Pitts style. I hope it gets better than this.
#9
Trash the Zinger Pro. They flex, vibrate, and on some the blades don't track. The vibration alone will keep the rpms from *****g out. You've probably also noticed a lot of prop noise. But also, every engine is different. My Poulan 46 is 1000 off some other peoples #'s. Last thing, is it too rich? Excessive rich setting does litttle to cool a gasser and just slows it down.
#10
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Update it looks like it may have been a muffler mismatch problem. I have a slimline pitts style muffler using a specially machined adapter. It seems like it's too small for this engine. Without the muffler I am getting 7100 on a Mejzlik 22x8.
Edit: The muffler I have is actually a Bisson which has a custom made adapter to fit the BME 50. The output tubes are smaller than the J & A.
Edit: The muffler I have is actually a Bisson which has a custom made adapter to fit the BME 50. The output tubes are smaller than the J & A.
#11
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From: Tulsa, OK
Brand new BME out of the box... Zinger pro 22x8, lawn boy ashless gen II, 93 octane fuel,, (maybe I should back down to 87?) 90deg with high humidity.. Idle around 1600 top at about 6950.
Now a question for all you bme owners, how hot is the bottom f your crankcase after a little run time? It never acted as if it were hot, always accepted the throttle, never loaded up at all. Never acted as though it was going to die. I killed it waited a minute or so and restarted it with no problems. Put my hand on the crank case to check it after it was off for a minute or two and it was hot enough to not leave your hand there for more than 2 or 3 seconds. I left the needles as they came from Dons Hobbies. This is my first brand new gas motor and I don't want anything to go wrong with it..
Now a question for all you bme owners, how hot is the bottom f your crankcase after a little run time? It never acted as if it were hot, always accepted the throttle, never loaded up at all. Never acted as though it was going to die. I killed it waited a minute or so and restarted it with no problems. Put my hand on the crank case to check it after it was off for a minute or two and it was hot enough to not leave your hand there for more than 2 or 3 seconds. I left the needles as they came from Dons Hobbies. This is my first brand new gas motor and I don't want anything to go wrong with it..
#12
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From: Santa Monica, CA
This is what Keith at BME writes in the engine manual. The high octane fuel should not be used. May cause engine to run hot.
FUEL:
We recommend standard 87 octane unleaded gasoline for your BME (Chevron and Texaco seem to work very well). Higher-octane fuel will not generate more power and may cause the engine to run slower and overheat. Try what is recommended first!
Note: The use of alcohol is to be avoided and will void the warranty. Alcohol-based fuels are highly corrosive to the carburetor and internal engine parts, and the carburetor must be modified in order to pass the proper amount of fuel to the engine – otherwise severe overheating will occur and the engine will be damaged.
FUEL:
We recommend standard 87 octane unleaded gasoline for your BME (Chevron and Texaco seem to work very well). Higher-octane fuel will not generate more power and may cause the engine to run slower and overheat. Try what is recommended first!
Note: The use of alcohol is to be avoided and will void the warranty. Alcohol-based fuels are highly corrosive to the carburetor and internal engine parts, and the carburetor must be modified in order to pass the proper amount of fuel to the engine – otherwise severe overheating will occur and the engine will be damaged.
#13
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From: concord, NC
Reaper, 130 degree tap water is too hot for most people, and at 150 degrees you start to get skin damage. If you can't keep your hand on it for more than 2-3 seconds I'd say that is pretty normal. The crankcase is probably close to 160+ degrees after the engine warms up, and the cylinder at 180-220 depending on a number of factors.
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From: Tulsa, OK
Thanks RC Pilot and Kris^, I appreciate your input.
I knew that BME recommended the 87 octane, but I hade some of the 93 already mixed up for a. Still trying to be economical and not having to duplicate a fueling system for 6 points of octane. Kris^ thanks for the temp comparison. As this is my first out of the box gasser I want sure about how hot hot was. Since my other gasser was bought from another flyer and already mounted, I haven't reached in to touch the crankcase to see how warm it was... may do that this morning just for comparison.
Just goes to show how good our hobby is when people take the time out of there day to help others!
Happy 4th guys and hope you all get in as much flying as you want!
I knew that BME recommended the 87 octane, but I hade some of the 93 already mixed up for a. Still trying to be economical and not having to duplicate a fueling system for 6 points of octane. Kris^ thanks for the temp comparison. As this is my first out of the box gasser I want sure about how hot hot was. Since my other gasser was bought from another flyer and already mounted, I haven't reached in to touch the crankcase to see how warm it was... may do that this morning just for comparison.
Just goes to show how good our hobby is when people take the time out of there day to help others!
Happy 4th guys and hope you all get in as much flying as you want!
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From: Roseville,
CA
I have a DA50 and a Zinger pro 22x10 prop. After drilling the prop the prop bolts stop at 1/4" and won't tighten the prop down. Am I missing a spacer or are the bolts too short.or is the Zinger pro too slim. I should have bought some Bambula props there one of the best bang for the buck.
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From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA
Out of the box factory needle valve settings and less than a pint of gas through the motor)
Zinger Pro 22x8 - 7200 with 27 lbs static thrust
Mejzlik 20x12 - 7100 with 26 lbs static thrust
Cyclone 22x10 narrow blade - 6800 with 24 lbs static thrust
vibration levels about the same for all three props.
Zinger Pro 22x8 - 7200 with 27 lbs static thrust
Mejzlik 20x12 - 7100 with 26 lbs static thrust
Cyclone 22x10 narrow blade - 6800 with 24 lbs static thrust
vibration levels about the same for all three props.
#18

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From: Roseville,
CA
I'm getting ready to fire mine up but I have to get some tubing, Is the Flexable dubro 1/8" of 3' tubing a good choice for $3.89 or is ther better or cheaper tubing at a lower cost available from auto parts store or speed shop. Also I was told the AMS Oil Synth 2000 50-1 oil was the best to use are there any other brands that are as good but cheaper that you can get from the Motercycle shop.
Do these gasoline engines need after-run oil like glow engines do.
Do these gasoline engines need after-run oil like glow engines do.



