Help with Raptor 50 purchase list
08-07-2006, 11:31 AM
#26
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RE: Help with Raptor 50 purchase list
I KEEP GETTING YOU MESSAGE ON MY AD ALERT VIA RC UNIVERCE.I CAN VERYPOSIBLE HELP YOU EMAIL ME W/ MORE IMFO THANKS. [email protected]
08-09-2006, 12:49 PM
#29
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RE: Help with Raptor 50 purchase list
My kit came today, Wahoo!!!
Should I build it with all the stock parts (or at least most, think I am going to add the button anyways), then later on add the aluminum ones that came in the Heliproz veloci kit?
This thing is alot bigger than I thought
Wyatt W.
Should I build it with all the stock parts (or at least most, think I am going to add the button anyways), then later on add the aluminum ones that came in the Heliproz veloci kit?
This thing is alot bigger than I thought
Wyatt W.
08-10-2006, 08:56 AM
#30
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RE: Help with Raptor 50 purchase list
Well got it together (or at least as much as I can without the servo's and gyro) and realized a few things I may want to purchase if do it again (or any other newbie reading this thread for items to purchase).
One thing would be the silicon grease, a snap ring pliers (man I wish I had a snap ring pliers...), and a fine screw driver with a bigger handle for extra torque on those miniature screws.
One other question, spinning the head around (with out blades) seems to have more resistance than other helicopters I have seen. I so far have not done a whole lot of lubricating (just the head dampeners)... I omitted greasing the auto hub since I did not have the grease they wanted and the guy at raptor techniques said not too.
Wyatt W.
Sorry if that does not make sence, I am kind tired.
One thing would be the silicon grease, a snap ring pliers (man I wish I had a snap ring pliers...), and a fine screw driver with a bigger handle for extra torque on those miniature screws.
One other question, spinning the head around (with out blades) seems to have more resistance than other helicopters I have seen. I so far have not done a whole lot of lubricating (just the head dampeners)... I omitted greasing the auto hub since I did not have the grease they wanted and the guy at raptor techniques said not too.
Wyatt W.
Sorry if that does not make sence, I am kind tired.
08-30-2006, 12:14 PM
#31
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RE: [Deleted]
Wahoo! Finally got it up in the air yesterday (and brought it home in one piece too).
Other than having one of the experienced members statically track the blades and tweaking the needle a little the helicopter was good to go. Man the OS hyper is a smooth operating engine, hopefully it will continue to work as well as my other OS airplane engines (OK, not the LA series... hope it does not run like that one).
I can tell I am going to have allot of fun with this helicopter, it just seems so much more stable than the Blade CP.
Wyatt W.
P.S. when you set it up to hover at 3/4 throttle stick, do you remove some pitch and power at the top end, or do you give all the pitch and power at the last point (seems that would make it real touchy above hover)? Just wondering because that is how I am use to it after using the Blade CP and the models on Real Flight.
Other than having one of the experienced members statically track the blades and tweaking the needle a little the helicopter was good to go. Man the OS hyper is a smooth operating engine, hopefully it will continue to work as well as my other OS airplane engines (OK, not the LA series... hope it does not run like that one).
I can tell I am going to have allot of fun with this helicopter, it just seems so much more stable than the Blade CP.
Wyatt W.
P.S. when you set it up to hover at 3/4 throttle stick, do you remove some pitch and power at the top end, or do you give all the pitch and power at the last point (seems that would make it real touchy above hover)? Just wondering because that is how I am use to it after using the Blade CP and the models on Real Flight.
08-30-2006, 12:46 PM
#32
RE: [Deleted]
Top pitch should be 10 degrees with 100 percent power unless it over speeds then you can knock the top point down a little.
Yes a 3d curve +-10 w/ 3/4 stick hover makes the collective more sensitive but you get used to it. Its not for FAI precision hovering type flying but it works well for most of us.
Yes a 3d curve +-10 w/ 3/4 stick hover makes the collective more sensitive but you get used to it. Its not for FAI precision hovering type flying but it works well for most of us.
08-30-2006, 01:48 PM
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RE: [Deleted]
Does that count when I am in the normal mode? For my idle ups (shut off for right now) I have the the full -10,0,+10 pitch, but my normal pitch is -5,+5.5,+10 (hover at mid stick). I would like it to hover at 3/4 stick when I am in normal mode, does your instructions still apply in this case?
Wyatt W.
Wyatt W.
08-30-2006, 02:05 PM
#34
RE: [Deleted]
I always make the top 3 points on my pitch curve 0, 5 10 that way there's not jumping around when I switch with the exception of throttle hold where I run +12 at the top point.
Any time you hover at 3/4 stick your collective is sensitive around hover.
Who told ya to get snap ring pliers? and JIS (japanese industreal standard) screw drivers work alot better than standard phillips heads on the japanese screws like those from Thunder Tiger and Hirobo.
Any time you hover at 3/4 stick your collective is sensitive around hover.
Who told ya to get snap ring pliers?
and JIS (japanese industreal standard) screw drivers work alot better than standard phillips heads on the japanese screws like those from Thunder Tiger and Hirobo.
09-11-2006, 08:57 PM
#35
RE: [Deleted]
Barracuda
I am from Brazil and i fly an old Raptor 50 v1 with a lot of aluminium upgrades..., Hyper 50 engine, 401 gyro, muscle pipe 2 exaust, 600 NHP blades...
I will change de tail blade to carbon, what size i can use?
Another think...I propabily will go to US and i intend to buy an Titan Raptor and moving my equipament to the new helicopter....as i will be in US and the thinks are much cheaper...what upgrades do you think that is important....
My Level: I do some 3D thinks...starting to try backwards flights..and the next step will be inverted flights...
Do you have some close pictures from de TItan without canopy..so i can see the difference from mine and maybe compare what aluminuim parts that i have will fit in the titan...
thanks
Heraldo
I am from Brazil and i fly an old Raptor 50 v1 with a lot of aluminium upgrades..., Hyper 50 engine, 401 gyro, muscle pipe 2 exaust, 600 NHP blades...
I will change de tail blade to carbon, what size i can use?
Another think...I propabily will go to US and i intend to buy an Titan Raptor and moving my equipament to the new helicopter....as i will be in US and the thinks are much cheaper...what upgrades do you think that is important....
My Level: I do some 3D thinks...starting to try backwards flights..and the next step will be inverted flights...
Do you have some close pictures from de TItan without canopy..so i can see the difference from mine and maybe compare what aluminuim parts that i have will fit in the titan...
thanks
Heraldo
09-12-2006, 04:46 PM
#39
RE: [Deleted]
92mm is the most Id run if you are planning in piro flips and such. I've actually had pretty good luck with 80mm wide chord Maverikks, I nipped a set of 95mm vblades tails with the main blades.
The titan has a longer boom so 95mm would be ideal for that.
The titan has a longer boom so 95mm would be ideal for that.
