Hey guys..

Had the engine apart for about a month and a bit now and my parts finally arrived (front bearing), ive cleaned every single part numerous times with a special cellulose thinner to completely remove all the dead fuel and everything is nice and shiny and brand new looking... ofcourse i didnt use it on the carb as it would of melted the plastic parts with in it..

I just wondered. seen as the engine is now completely free of any sort of lubricant or any kind of liquid in fact... what should i douse the insides of the engine with to get it all nice and lubed up ready to start?

You can use many kinds of lubricant. Some use the model fuel itself, WD40, Kroil, Triflow, or 2 cycle oil that you would mix with gas, like a weed eater. I use 10W 30 motor oil. I put some in an old cleaned out butter tub, dip the bearings in and wipe off excess. Next put a light coating on the piston skirt, even in the groove where the piston ring is, and the cyclinder. Then put a light coat on the connecting rod bushings where the pistion pin and crank will connect. Like I said, make it a light coating, as you dont want a bunch of oil fouling up the glow plug when you first start it.

Ive got tonnes of WD40 to spare.. il just give all the moving parts a light spray to get them moving nicely...

im guessing the WD40 will just burn out by itself eventualy.. and then be replaced with the fuel that normaly lubricates the engine?

Correct, the WD40 will get spit out of the exhaust as its running, no worries. The oil in the fuel will replace it quickly. Be sure to coat the cylinder and piston ring and groove good.

Oh, I will add this, as I have made this mistake before and costed me a ring and piston. Be sure that when you slide the cylinder over the piston, that the piston ring is matched up the the little pin in the groove of the piston. There is also a pin on top of the cylinder block that the slot at the top of the cylinder matches up too. Get that aligned before sliding it over the piston. This will keep you from having to twist the cylinder around later, possibly letting the piston ring ends catch on a port hole in the cylinder.

Here is raptortechnique's spill on it engine bearing replacement.
http://www.raptortechnique.com/enginebearing.htm

Thanks for all the help, assembled the engine this morning when the bearing arrived.. Put the crankcase in the oven 350F, bearing dropped in nicely with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet.

Assembled everything, caked everything with WD40 apart from the top of the cylinder and the inside of the engine head to prevent fouling up the glowplug. Took a while fiddling with the piston ring and sleeve to get them aligned, got there in the end.

Then tightened all the screws with locktite ofcourse.. installed her into the heli.. Richened the needle by a full turn.. fired her up nicely... and let her idle for about 10 minutes... she purred nicely


When i get to the field, im going to let it idle/tiny bit of throttle for about a header tanks worth of fuel with the needle set about a turn richer than the usual just to get it all settled and perfect... then il get back to my usual chaosing a foot from the ground

Again many thanks