The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
11-23-2010, 08:36 AM
#202
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Hi Paul,
Iused a color agent made for styrospray. Industrial Polymers carries it.The odd thing is they told me you could not get real deep colors with it because the base of styrospray is white but looking at this, it looks like a dead ringer for missile red monokote which is fine for me.
One thing I noted that I did not see posted anywhere in this thread (or others leading to this one) is that this stuff is very bad toinhale.I felta little odd to my stomach when I started testing the stuff then read the MSDS info on this it. This isnot exactly something you want sitting in your living room curing. I highly suggest using an OSHA mask especially if you spray the stuff.
Works really well... Iplan on finishing a turbine jet with this. As I said, no prime, no sealing, no paint and no monokote!
Andy
Iused a color agent made for styrospray. Industrial Polymers carries it.The odd thing is they told me you could not get real deep colors with it because the base of styrospray is white but looking at this, it looks like a dead ringer for missile red monokote which is fine for me.
One thing I noted that I did not see posted anywhere in this thread (or others leading to this one) is that this stuff is very bad toinhale.I felta little odd to my stomach when I started testing the stuff then read the MSDS info on this it. This isnot exactly something you want sitting in your living room curing. I highly suggest using an OSHA mask especially if you spray the stuff.
Works really well... Iplan on finishing a turbine jet with this. As I said, no prime, no sealing, no paint and no monokote!
Andy
11-23-2010, 08:46 AM
#203
My Feedback: (23)
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Andy,
That's what I was thinking as I was impressed on how deep the color looks. Mine doesn't look as good. I might try adding the waterbase paint to some WBPU and see if it affects it in any way. Can't wait to see your finished jet.
paul
That's what I was thinking as I was impressed on how deep the color looks. Mine doesn't look as good. I might try adding the waterbase paint to some WBPU and see if it affects it in any way. Can't wait to see your finished jet.
paul
11-23-2010, 12:03 PM
#205
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: China,
MI
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
ORIGINAL: lazyace
has anyone tested it on open bays with fabric covering like koveral or solortex ?
has anyone tested it on open bays with fabric covering like koveral or solortex ?
11-27-2010, 02:30 AM
#207
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
do you guys reckon this stuff would be suitable for finishing a plug before using it to make a fibreglass mould? Sounds like it would save the time and effort of glassing the plug before making the mould.
03-30-2011, 04:09 AM
#209
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Hello ....... I've read the entire Pepsi Challenge and I thank everyone for their hard work on these two products. Great work everyone. I just have a few questions. I have two Multiplex planes (Fun Cub and Twister) neither of which I believe need the addition of FG cloth. I am looking for a glossy finish. Now that the products are being used quite a bit, I just want to get some updated information.
1. What are builders using to color the product?
2. Is thinning with alcohol, using a foam roller, the preferred application method - any problems?
3. How does it "Gloss UP" out out when wet sanding and 600/1000/1500 grit papers?
4. What is the big difference between LS-2 and Styrospray 1000 - what does everyone prefer?
Thanks and I look forward to sharing my results.
Johnny U.
1. What are builders using to color the product?
2. Is thinning with alcohol, using a foam roller, the preferred application method - any problems?
3. How does it "Gloss UP" out out when wet sanding and 600/1000/1500 grit papers?
4. What is the big difference between LS-2 and Styrospray 1000 - what does everyone prefer?
Thanks and I look forward to sharing my results.
Johnny U.
03-30-2011, 04:44 AM
#210
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
To be honest here, I was very optimistic about this product when I got it. I tried this on some sample pieces then on a large balsa fairing Imade for a turbine jet project. My original plan was to coat this jet that I am nearly done with. The overall finish for me was not appealing. The whole point of this product in my head was to cover something and get a clean glossy surface. I went over very smooth balsa that was primed prior and all I can tell you is that I was not happy with the results. It is just not any comparison to a urethane enamel or lacquer finishes that I am used to.
For coloring, I used the coloring agent that Industrial Polymers sells. The color agents work very well! As for the plane I started out to cover, I shelved this product and wound up using it on a very large cub scouts project which worked great but I did elect to use a hardened urethane enamel on my plane. This was based on the finish results I got from coating primed and prepped balsa and the length of time this product needs to really cure well enough to sand.
With regard to LS2 and StryroSpray comparison studies,Terry Farmer confirmed through his experiments that LS2 and Styrospray are one in the same.I also phoned Industrial Polymers and they confirmed for me that Wow Planes (LS product) is purchased from them.
With regard to LS2 and StryroSpray comparison studies,Terry Farmer confirmed through his experiments that LS2 and Styrospray are one in the same.I also phoned Industrial Polymers and they confirmed for me that Wow Planes (LS product) is purchased from them.
ORIGINAL: Rocketman320
Hello ....... I've read the entire Pepsi Challenge and I thank everyone for their hard work on these two products. Great work everyone. I just have a few questions. I have two Multiplex planes (Fun Cub and Twister) neither of which I believe need the addition of FG cloth. I am looking for a glossy finish. Now that the products are being used quite a bit, I just want to get some updated information.
1. What are builders using to color the product?
2. Is thinning with alcohol, using a foam roller, the preferred application method - any problems?
3. How does it "Gloss UP" out out when wet sanding and 600/1000/1500 grit papers?
4. What is the big difference between LS-2 and Styrospray 1000 - what does everyone prefer?
Thanks and I look forward to sharing my results.
Johnny U.
Hello ....... I've read the entire Pepsi Challenge and I thank everyone for their hard work on these two products. Great work everyone. I just have a few questions. I have two Multiplex planes (Fun Cub and Twister) neither of which I believe need the addition of FG cloth. I am looking for a glossy finish. Now that the products are being used quite a bit, I just want to get some updated information.
1. What are builders using to color the product?
2. Is thinning with alcohol, using a foam roller, the preferred application method - any problems?
3. How does it "Gloss UP" out out when wet sanding and 600/1000/1500 grit papers?
4. What is the big difference between LS-2 and Styrospray 1000 - what does everyone prefer?
Thanks and I look forward to sharing my results.
Johnny U.
03-30-2011, 07:18 AM
#211
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Orange,
NJ
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
The trouble is I don`t think adding color to the product is going to get you a glass smooth mirror finish on a jet that guys like. This product should be used the same way you would if you were glassing a plane. Prep the wood, make sure all hills and valleys are filled in. I am sealing the wood before I paint the stuff on using Behr wood sealer and will let you know how it is. I am doing a warbird so I do not need a glass top finish. But after coating comes a sand with 400 grit to get rid of the shine more or less , prime and then base coat. After prime I will see if further filling is needed.
This stuff is just a coat to cover the wood so you can paint with out glassing. If you need extra strength in areas then I suggest glassing those areas. That is what I did with the center of my wing because I use 1/16 sheeting and I sand it too much. The entire plane is 1/16 sheeting. So also I will see how much of a shell I will get from 2 or 3 coats. NO I`m not worried about weight, its a warbird not a kite.
BTW this is a 80" Stuka scratch built.
This stuff is just a coat to cover the wood so you can paint with out glassing. If you need extra strength in areas then I suggest glassing those areas. That is what I did with the center of my wing because I use 1/16 sheeting and I sand it too much. The entire plane is 1/16 sheeting. So also I will see how much of a shell I will get from 2 or 3 coats. NO I`m not worried about weight, its a warbird not a kite.
BTW this is a 80" Stuka scratch built.
03-30-2011, 08:06 AM
#213
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Thanks for the replies. How does one coat of LS compare to .5 oz glass and two coats of wbpu or resin? If much lighter, I can prime and paint as well. If I could color LS, trim in paint, then buff in a shine with 1000+ grit paper, I was hoping to keep the weight down. The bottom line, I want something that is tough, adds some strength, and provides a hard surface that protects from dings and takes the foam look away. Any toughts?
03-30-2011, 08:36 AM
#214
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Sounds like you are using this on a foam plane. That is really what the stuff was designed for but someone got the notion to try it over wood. If you are working on foam, you can thin it with a few things but I think only denatured alcohol will work. I seem to recall from talking to Industrial Polymers that you can use toluene, Xylol, Xylene ordentaured alcohol. Obviously toluene, Xyloland Xylene are going to reduce whateverfoam you cover to a mush so alcohol is the only option for thinning.You can spray this if you thin it enough but moisture is akey to curing this stuff and any water absorbed in your alcoholmight cause thisstuff to begin setting upbefore you are ready.
ORIGINAL: Rocketman320
Thanks for the replies. How does one coat of LS compare to .5 oz glass and two coats of wbpu or resin? If much lighter, I can prime and paint as well. If I could color LS, trim in paint, then buff in a shine with 1000+ grit paper, I was hoping to keep the weight down. The bottom line, I want something that is tough, adds some strength, and provides a hard surface that protects from dings and takes the foam look away. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the replies. How does one coat of LS compare to .5 oz glass and two coats of wbpu or resin? If much lighter, I can prime and paint as well. If I could color LS, trim in paint, then buff in a shine with 1000+ grit paper, I was hoping to keep the weight down. The bottom line, I want something that is tough, adds some strength, and provides a hard surface that protects from dings and takes the foam look away. Any thoughts?
03-30-2011, 09:15 AM
#215
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
That is correct - the Fun Cub and Twister EDF are both of epalar foam. I talked to Industrial Polymers yesterday ans just received a sample of SS 1000 both on foam and plywood - this stuff is hard! I tried buffing it with 1000-8000 wet sand paper but it looks pretty much the same. I think this will be an excellent product for foam planes to toughen them up and provide an excellent paint base. Since I've never glassed an airplane before and have no basis for comparison, is it lighter than glass and resin/wbpu?
Thanks
Thanks
03-30-2011, 09:50 AM
#216
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
You know the weight of fiberglass cloth is going to be a constant. You might also think about poly cloth (the stuff ladies slips are made from) as it is very strong and far lighter than any glass I have seen. Anyway whatever cloth you use remains a constant since you are trying to see what weighs more, meaning fiberglass resin or StryorSpray. I am sure you could probably find the weight and density figures forfiberglass resin somewhere on the netbut I am doubtful you would find anything on StyroSpray so I would take ameasured sample ofboth say 1oz of each material (without cloth)andweigh thetwo whencured.I would be curious to hear which is lighter.
ORIGINAL: Rocketman320
That is correct - the Fun Cub and Twister EDF are both of epalar foam. I talked to Industrial Polymers yesterday ans just received a sample of SS 1000 both on foam and plywood - this stuff is hard! I tried buffing it with 1000-8000 wet sand paper but it looks pretty much the same. I think this will be an excellent product for foam planes to toughen them up and provide an excellent paint base. Since I've never glassed an airplane before and have no basis for comparison, is it lighter than glass and resin/wbpu?
Thanks
That is correct - the Fun Cub and Twister EDF are both of epalar foam. I talked to Industrial Polymers yesterday ans just received a sample of SS 1000 both on foam and plywood - this stuff is hard! I tried buffing it with 1000-8000 wet sand paper but it looks pretty much the same. I think this will be an excellent product for foam planes to toughen them up and provide an excellent paint base. Since I've never glassed an airplane before and have no basis for comparison, is it lighter than glass and resin/wbpu?
Thanks
03-30-2011, 10:02 AM
#217
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: streamwood,
IL
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
if you haven't already, you may want to check out the other thread on the warbird forum http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10419252 several other guys were experimenting with this stuff and I think there is a link to the Wowplanes site that has a video about their stuff. As I recall on the video he applied a thinned out slurry of lite weight spackle to the foam and sanded it smooth then applied the L.S. . Take a look.
paul
paul
04-15-2011, 07:29 PM
#218
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Charlotte,
NC
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
Maybe I missed it..but do you need to (wet)sand this product before priming/painting?
Or does it adhere without sanding?
Or does it adhere without sanding?
04-16-2011, 02:58 AM
#219
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: China,
MI
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
ORIGINAL: SunnyFlyer09
Maybe I missed it..but do you need to (wet)sand this product before priming/painting?
Or does it adhere without sanding?
Maybe I missed it..but do you need to (wet)sand this product before priming/painting?
Or does it adhere without sanding?
Ken
04-16-2011, 06:11 AM
#220
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
What grit of wet sandpaper do you recommend Ken? Also, what method of SS/LS application do you prefer?
Thanks,
Johnny U.
Thanks,
Johnny U.
04-16-2011, 07:46 AM
#221
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: China,
MI
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: The Pepsi Challenge for Covering Balsa with LS
ORIGINAL: Rocketman320
What grit of wet sandpaper do you recommend Ken? Also, what method of SS/LS application do you prefer?
Thanks,
Johnny U.
What grit of wet sandpaper do you recommend Ken? Also, what method of SS/LS application do you prefer?
Thanks,
Johnny U.
Ken
