Hello,
I recently painted a model using a combination of acrylic and oil based enamel paints. I need a clear coat that wont react with the paints, and will fuel proof it at the same time. Any help would be much appreciated!

Will<br type="_moz" />

I beleive you can use lustkote clear, make by the makers of Monokote
wattmeter

Thanks for the quick reply. I actually tried that on a test piece and it bubbled the enamel but was fine on the acrylic.

will

When you mix types of paints and even different brands you should do a compatibility test first. Not to be rude but you have put the cart before the horse here. Unless you can find someone with the same combination you have that can give you a straight answer you will have to test all of them. Even if someone tells you they know what will work for you, please by all means test it first before applying to your model. I think my next step if i were in your shoes would be to TEST an automotive 2 part clear.

Bibby,

This problem is not new. Many paints are not fuel proof as you know. The Lustercote clear suggestion works on the acrylic but not on the enamel. So, here's a suggestion: Buy some clear acrylic to spray over the enamel. After that you should be able to spray the clear Lustercote. Also, if the enamels are dark colors you can use a clear polyurethane, which is fuel proof. In fact you could probably use clear polyurethane over both paints. Be aware that a slight darkening of light colors will occur. The only caution is that any clear coat will wear in places handled and rubbed which will then expose the paint underneath to fuel damage. Good luck.

Gerry

Try clear, Behr, water based polyeurathane. It is water clear (not yellowing like some polys), and fuel PROOF to at least 15% nitro. That is as far as I tested it.

I applied a test panel, soaked it in fuel, until all that was left in the open container was the oil, and it didn't even touch the poly.

Les

auto zone clear high temp truck pant I use it as a clear coat work to up to 15% nitro

A couple of things.................

Water based polyurethane is FUEL RESISTANT, not fuel proof - it is compatible over every type of paint I have encountered . After the residue sits on the finish for about 3 hours the finish will soften. This MAY be acceptable to you if you clean your planes within the 3 hour window.

Oil Based polyurethane is fuel proof (after about 2 -3 weeks), however, it yellows. The yellowing starts being noticeable at about 6 - 8 months. It is not that noticeable on dark colors, but very noticeable on light colors.

Nelson paints is no longer in existance, however Warbird Colors, I believe, has a clear coat that is the same thing as Nelson's was.

I have also used "High Temp Engine Enamel" with very good results. I have used this over a mix of acrylic, regular enamel and latex (I THINK it is an acrylic). I LIGHTLY MIST the first 2 coats and let it completely dry (overnight), then apply the final clear coat. This can normally be obtained in a rattle can at an auto parts store - I have only found it in high gloss though.

The suggestion of spraying a clear coat of acrylic clear is a good suggestion also.

In any case, do a test panel before commiting to the plane.

I have used Luster Cote over enamel, but you have to be real careful and just lightly mist on 3 or 4 coats to get complete coverage to keep the enamel from lifting or crinkling. The lighter the mist the better, I let each coat dry about 1 to 2 hours between mist coats.

Thank you everyone for your help!  I decided to try the water based poly.  So far so good, doesnt seem to react with the enamel or acrylic.  I plan to nitro test it soon.

The poly will stand up to fresh fuel all day long, but when it's coming out of your hot exhaust it's a different story.

"The poly will stand up to fresh fuel all day long, but when it's coming out of your hot exhaust it's a different story. "

Probably so, but when I was flying fuel I took the time to direct the exhaust so that the hot exhaust would not exit onto the painted surface.

Les

rumor is Nelsons sold System Three paint
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...&idCategory=29

You can get 4 oz for $5 A quart for $56 plus $7 for 1oz of the crosslinker.
They have satin and glass clear..

Warbird colors has better pricing, more sizes available and includes the cross linker but I can't find gloss clear listed.. Call.. maybe they can get it.
http://www.warbirdcolors.com/

You can also use klass kote epoxy for a top coat and it is impervious to nitro at least to 70%. It goes over most everything except urethanes, but nothing else will do that either.
Reasonably priced and you can have just about any color you want with some mixing. They also have military colors.
If you have access to a decent spray booth then auto clear coat is the way to go. However don't do this yourself without full knowledge of it's potential lethal consequences if you don't follow all safety rules.
Dennis

I am also a big fan of KlassKote, in my opinion, the best compromise in cost and performance of any of the model paints. However, it will not adhere to Butyrate dope. Two reasons I like it so well is that is that you can brush it on without leaving brush strokes and it covers so very well. Of course it's very good and durable finish is also a plus.

I paint with acrylic all the time. Once the acrylic is fully dry, I coat it with 6 light coats of TopFlite Lustkote clear then let it dry for about a week. My Hanger 9 Fokker DVII has acrylic painted parts and it is over 3 years old. The plane has had many flights on it and it is still fuel proof to this day. [8D]


Pete