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Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

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Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

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Old 01-21-2011 | 03:03 PM
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Default Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

I have a older arf that I lost one of the elevators and the rudder.. I have one elevator to use for a template and already have the rudder dims..

I cut the parts and now have to taper them..
They taper from top to bottom as well as from leading edge to aft on the rudder and from inboard out to tip and leading edge to aft on the elevator..
I was just going to double face tape it to the bench and start sanding the tapers in with some 80grt, them flip and sand the other side. Once the taper from leading edge to aft is done, I would them taper it from inboard to the tip..
Any tips to make this go faster, can you buy tapered stock that is 4" wide and then just sand in the taper from inboard to the tips?

I thought about making a tapering jig for the bandsaw, but that would have to be done in the garage and it's -4 out there right now, so that ain't happening...lol

Well if you have a easier way, would love to here it..

Jimbo
Old 01-21-2011 | 06:37 PM
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Default RE: Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

I would start the tapering with a razor plane and then finish with the sandpaper. It will go much more quickly and you will have less dust.
Old 01-21-2011 | 10:57 PM
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Default RE: Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

I have done the following in the past and it works real well. 

Place your stock between two sizes of Piano wire that will give  you the final taper you want..  Tape the wire down to our table witt tape running ealong the length of the wires. Place the small diameter end near the end of the table so you snading block can angle below the table. Then start standing.    You can sand all the way down and make the piece the same on both sides by adjusting the leading edge, or flip the piece after a bit and sand the other side as well.  Your sanding block  will stop sanding the piece once it starts to ride on the piano wire.  The tape will wear but not enough to be an issue for as it gets close you can go to finer paper.
Old 01-22-2011 | 10:50 AM
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Default RE: Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator

Thanks guys, good tips that i will definitely use next time.. I tried my razor plane and the blade was real dull from the last use and then sitting so long, grinder was in the garage and the -4 came into play again..lol

I ended up just tracing the outline out all the way around, couple of small pieces of double face tape to stick it to my bench and hit it with my bar sander with 80grt.. It went pretty fast, just sanded to all my lines then flipped it over and repeated. Came out nice and straight, finish sandedand is ready for covering...

I really like making and using jigs, when I worked at a cabinet shop I was often asked to design a jig for something..
While sanding I thought of a jig I will make this spring for doing this task, it will be adjustable to do any taper.. I will be sure to post it when I finish it, along with a build thread on how to make one..

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Old 01-23-2011 | 03:58 PM
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Default RE: Any tips on making a solid balsa rudder and elevator


ORIGINAL: KitBuilder

I have done the following in the past and it works real well.

Place your stock between two sizes of Piano wire that will give you the final taper you want.. Tape the wire down to our table witt tape running ealong the length of the wires. Place the small diameter end near the end of the table so you snading block can angle below the table. Then start standing. You can sand all the way down and make the piece the same on both sides by adjusting the leading edge, or flip the piece after a bit and sand the other side as well. Your sanding block will stop sanding the piece once it starts to ride on the piano wire. The tape will wear but not enough to be an issue for as it gets close you can go to finer paper.
I have done something similar on my current build to taper the piece that sets the stab incidence, since it was a narrow piece. I used two drill bits for guides.

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