is it possible to make your own props? im thinking mainly fiberglass construction. im building a micro airboat and there arent any super small pusher props so i am using aluminum shaped into a prop, but want something lighter and with better design.




(i figured this is an ok spot to ask about props)<br type="_moz" />

How small do you need? APC makes a 4.4X2 Sport prop and a 4.1X4.1 Electric.
I'd NOT use any metal prop, especially home made, under ANY modeling circumstances.
I haven't looked it up but I think metal props are not allowed under AMA rules.
You can always cut down a commercial prop it they are to long. Be sure to rebalance them before using.

Hope this helps.
Mike P

I have been molding my own props for years.I may be able to help you, just need some specs

Hi MCRIPPPer
If you are using an electric motor, I believe you can use a conventional prop that is mounted backwards, then reversing the motor direction (I think you switch any two wires).

Can you tell us your process and how you make your molds prop molds? Where do you get your prop material to make your props?

You can take the smallest prop you can get and cut it down to the diameter you want. This will not be the most effecient prop, but I have seen it done. Also, AND VERY IMPORTANT, balance it the best you can. When dealing with props that small they are hard to balance.

Or, as Villa has said use a standard prop and reverse the direction of the motor.

Since he will be operating on the water, I'm not so sure AMA rules would apply. If he gets airborne it probably wouldn't be intentionally and certainly not true flying.

4" maximum diameter. ideally 3.5- 3.75.  im not sure which pitch would be good, that is why i want to make my own to experiment. iv got plenty of fiberglass and resin.

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The plugs are made from hard balsa,(easy to carve and shape) when I have a blade I am happy with, I then put it in a parting frame same as you would a fuse,wing,or cowl ect. and finish the mold.The lay up is free hand, keeping very close count of lams (blade vs blade) to help in the balance dept.I then close the mold, and vacuum bag with heating pad @80*f.After the prop cures I remove it from the mold,trim and balance.In some cases I will post cure the blade @140*f for two hrs. to strengthen the blade overall. If you do not want to carve a blade, find one close and reshape it to your specs. and then mold it.Either way you will have endless supply of props that are very durable and you can call yours.Hope this helps. Good luck!Rob

HVACMAN has helped me in making my own prop blades as well. He has been making his own fuses, wings, stabs, rudders, spinners, vac form parts ect.......along with me for over 20 years.

Once you get the basic idea of composites, nothing will stop you if your motivated.

The phrase "never work" gets me motivated to make it work.

Steve

One of ya'll prop dudes needs to make me a mold of the Byron's 4 blade Mustang blades. I have the drive system that I would like to convert to electric, but the stock blades are only good to about 3000 rpm. They twist and loose their pitch if you turn them any harder.

It's on my to-do list right after I get this part sorted out and mounted.

I have been watching your progress on that setup. I think you posted in my thread on RCG. After you get the Mustang going, how about a 5 blade for my Yellow Aircraft Spitfire????

Tell ya what.. If I manage to make a decent mold I'll let ya borrow it after I get a few sets made for myself..

As for the Spitfire.. Looks like it'll be a 25" prop.. who wants to carve the plug?

SOunds like a plan. If I knew anything about carving a prop, I would in a heartbeat. That Rotol blade has such an odd profile AND it turns the wrong way in the Griffon powered Spits. Talk about wierd having to hold left rudder on takeoff!!

Does the Yellow static prop have a good enough design to make a plug off it?

I vote for a step by step prop making thread by HVACMAN. Complete with pics and a list of materials used.

Can I get an Amen?

I will do it. I have time restraints at the moment so this may start off a little slow. If you are going to build along, gather these things:
-your plug or favorite prop (carving a prop is not difficult, but it is complicated so we will cover this in a different thread)
-modeling clay (I use Clean Clay brand)
-a metal dowl pin to fit the prop shaft hole (no slop, about 3 inches long will work)
-Epoxy (I use West Systems 105/205)
-Epoxy filler (Cab-o-cil, ect.)
-Epoxy surface coat (I use Dow Aluminum filler; works well, very strong)
-fiber glass cloth #2 #4 #6 for mold only (prop parts will be made with different weight, I will cover that later)
-PVA wax and liquid
-mixing and safety hardware
-most important: patience
Give me a few days to set up and we will get started. Rob.

[quote]ORIGINAL: JeffH

One of ya'll prop dudes needs to make me a mold of the Byron's 4 blade Mustang blades. I have the drive system that I would like to convert to electric, but the stock blades are only good to about 3000 rpm. They twist and loose their pitch if you turn them any harder.
[/quot

True, the factory Byrons were a very flexible blade. If you have the originals, your half way there.

Steve

I have a set of the orginals, but do not have the needed know-how to make a mold and layup a prop. That is why I am watching this thread. I know the technical processes involved, but reading the methods is much much different than doing the methods. I am not afraid to try, just would like to watch someone go through the steps first.

Subscribed.Watching with much interest. I want to learn too. I would like to make coppies of my Byron P-51 blades that don't flatten out or have signifigantly reduced tendancy to flatten out. My advise to any one trying something new. Do a test first on a expendable small part to help gain confidence. If you mess up, its ok. You have only losttheexpendable part and most importantly gained knowledge.

I think the good thing about using the Byron blades is that they are slick, shiney nylon, so the mold should have little chance of sticking if prepped right.

Totally agree JeffH. Just want to encourage anyone else to try.

I will participate in showing my prop molds and composite props as well. HVACMAN and I, although we have developed many methods to mold parts, we each have our own style of laying up composites.

His are usually perfect. Mine look , let's say "rushed', but as structurally as sound.

Steve