HELP!!! Ideas, or suggestions. I just picked up this old Pica warbird, and I would like to re-finish it with a more polished look, and some more scale details. The wings and airframe are completely balsa sheeted, and the plane has been painted. I don't know what kind of paint was used, so I hope that doesn't present a problem. My original idea was to recover it with the Chrome Monokote, and use either a Scotchbrite, or 4-0000 steel wool, to achieve that semy polished look, and use a dritz wheel to make the panel lines, and access points and hatch covers. What I would like to know is if Monokote will stick to a painted surface, or does the paint have to be completely stripped off, and down to bare wood ?? The only other option would be a complete repaint, but I am looking for a more polished look. Can anyone suggest the best method of achieving this kind of finish, or have had any experience doing a refurbish like this. What paints, or coverings have you used to do something like this. I want to redo all the scale decals, and invasion stripes, so that it has at least a scale appearance. I also already have the scale exhaust stacks, canopy, antenna mast, retracts. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks Dean

Is it paint over sheeting, or paint over covering over sheeting?

If its a dope finish, you could clean the whole thing and shine it with a topcoat of clear dope.

My experience with trying to apply Monokote over paint was not good. The Monokote stuck to the paint, but the heat softened the paint & it was impossible to get the Monokote to shrink with out getting it to pucker. Another option would be to sand down what you have & try repainting over what is allready there, either directly or primeing & then painting. Its difficult to help without knowing in more detail what type of paint was applied originally. Keep in mind the more paint you apply the heavier its going to get, and well you know the rest of that story. Good luck, hope you get something figured out & get her back in the air...Gene

I would just add the details you want and simply clear the whole airplane with Klass Kote clear. You will want to test the compatability first by brushing on a small amount of mixed clear on an area that can't be seen.

I would bet it's either been glassed or had some other coating applied before being painted. I'd try to find a spot on the wing that's hidden be the fuse and take a bit of sandpaper to it to find out.

Invasion stripes would imply a war time paint job which I would guess is not extremely shiny (mirror finish). I would go with the clear coat over the decals and details you add to what you've got.

"What I would like to know is if Monokote will stick to a painted surface, "

It will, but the problem that you will have will be air trapped between the paint, and the Monokote, and perhaps in zillions of little bubbles that you cannot puncture with a pin.

" What paints, or coverings have you used to do something like this"

I used Chrome Monokote, scrubbed with a scotchbrite pad, and applied in panels in accordance with some Squadron publication I had.

Les

p.s. The control surfaces look funny, because, like the real one, they were fabric covered.

Hi!
Just start sanding!
Best sanding paper is made in Portugal by Indasa. 3M, Norton, Mica and all others brands are just not comparable to Indasa.
Could not belive it when I first tried it 15 years ago! The paper I recommend is called: Indasa "Red line" Rhino dry!

Then I would use Oracover Chrome! Not Monokote! Oracover is much better.

OK- I did sand a small portion under the wing saddle area, and it looks like a light coat of primer was used, and then painted. It looks like it was sanded very well, and the wood is silky smooth. The paint doesn't appear to be very heavy, and sanded off fairly easy, down to the wood surface. I understand about the Monokote over the paint now, and see what u guys are saying about possible Monokote blistering. I think with the compound curves, and all the hidden pockets, I'll probably stick with a repaint. The present paint color is more gray, and I would like a more silvery finish. Any suggestion on a brand of paint that is good, applies well, and has a decent color selection. I don't know what brand of paint was used, so I'm hoping that I don't get a chemical reaction between the different paints. I would think that if I resanded it, and applied a very light primer coat, the new finish should make a decent finish.  Les, ur P40 looks amazing, and i really like the brushed aluminum look- somewhat shiny, but not too glassy- looks more natural. That's pretty much the kind of finish I'm looking for. I can add the black & white invasion stripes, scheme detail, decals, and spray a light coat of clear over it.
        Any suggestions on paint mfgrs that have fuel proof paint in spray cans ??  JAKA can u tell me who carries the sandpaper u suggest?? Retailers etc?? I want to extend my thanks and appreciation for ur suggestions keep em coming if u think of anything else.
    Many Thanks and a Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year to u all Dean

Look at some of the automotive paints. Very high quality and good coverage.

Ken

         Hi Ken OK on the auto finishes I'm not sure if they would be compatible with glow fuel, so I would probably have to use a fuel proof clear coat over it. I'm not going to worry about a few extra ounces of weight, as I have several engines that I can up the power level. So far, there doesn't appear to be any fuel soaking in the front forward area of the nose, or engine compartment area. The outside portion of the top of the nose area sanded smooth, and the wood dust was quite dry, with no soft soaked wood. I think I'll apply a light coat of epoxy to the forward area, and engine compartment to prevent any fuel soaking.  Many Thanks again Dean

"Les, ur P40 looks amazing, and i really like the brushed aluminum look- somewhat shiny, but not too glassy- looks more natural."

Thank you. That was exactly what I had in mind.

"Any suggestions on paint mfgrs that have fuel proof paint in spray cans "

You are going to have to test and test and test ANYTHING you are going to use; but keep in mind, there is going to be very little raw fuel that gets anywhere on the plane unless you are very sloppy in fueling. The rest is going to be oily residue with all the nitro burned off.

"I'm not sure if they would be compatible with glow fuel, so I would probably have to use a fuel proof clear coat over it."

Then you are back to worrying about the compatabiliity between the paint and the clear coat. Kind of a Catch 22, in alll respects.

Les

Here's a link for the sand paper http://www.indasausa.com/.And this place is easier to buy from http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.co...aproducts.html.
I like the 2&3/4 x 25yd self adhesive roll's.

Les I'll do all the testing u suggest on some scrap balsa to see the outcome. I used the Pactra brand of paints in years past, and they always worked well, and were fuel proof.  I hope they have a clear spray.  I'm going to run a thin film of epoxy to the nose and engine compartment to give it some extra protection.  I have installed the new fuel fill fittings, and they should keep fuel from spilling onto the finish.
      Acerc thanks for the link to the website for the sandpaper I'll definitely buy some. Once again, my thanks and appreciation for all ur suggestions, and help.  Merry Christmas to u all Dean

"I used the Pactra brand of paints in years past, and they always worked well, and were fuel proof."

Unfortunately, it is my understanding that all of the manufacturers/packagers have been gobbled up under one name now, and the only thing that really changes is the label.

I think that Randolph, and Certified are the dope suppliers, and all the enamels are the same.

Les

Automotive clear coats are fuel proof. They are two part paints with a catalyst to make them cure. Visit your favorite body shop or go to a paint store for more info. I guess the interweb would have some info also.

Ken

I agree with dean,a very nice finish on the p40 les it looks very natural.We use indasa paper here in commercial quantities and it's a good sandpaper favoured more for it's price than any real advantage over 3m etc.

Dean you may just want to put a thin coat of 'primer sealer' over the sanded finish (i'd sand back to the original primer) then sand with a medium sponge sanding pad and go from there.You can get chrome paint from ALSA.COM

Hi Ken  I wasn't really sure if auto paint was fuel proof, so I'll take ur word for it, and try some on some scrap, primered pieces and see how they turn out.  That will be a very cost effective savings over the fuel proof model paints.

  Old Fart thanks for the tips, especially using a sponge sanding pad I've never used one for that, but sounds good, and i'll try it. GREAT on the likn to ALSA.COM I'll definitely check out their website, and the chrome paint is exactly what I want, and If it works well, I'm sure I could put a proper brushed look to it.

    Once again My thanks and appreciation for ur help. comments, and suggestions. Looks like I may end up with a pretty nice looking "semi-scale" plane. It won't be perfectly scale, but it will look presentable.   Dean

"It won't be perfectly scale, but it will look presentable. Dean"

Always remember that the only one you NEED to satisfy is yourself, and typically, you will be your most stringent critic.

Les

Ahhh.."INSIGHT"..there you are!