Assembing the cabane and having terrible time with this wire holding solder, Here is a pic of the wire that just absolutely will not take the solder no matter what, using flux as usual heating slowly to just the right temp yet it rufuses to take any solder, I know how to solder I think maybe this wire has some other sheilding, it looks like wire you wind an armature with and seems like it would have been good to use?
I'll tey later looks like the pic hosting site is down right now.

sounds like the wire is coated or varnished . try scraping or sanding till you get a bright shiney copper color. Then try again with the flux.

Yes, wire for armatures has a very tough insulation on it. You need to sand/scrap it off and clean wire with carbon tetrachloride or similar solvent before trying to solder it.

Ok yes thanks, shame it won't work for me as it's a good looking roll of wire just the right diameter. It's would be pretty painstaking to try and strip off the coating.

Only need to strip the coating where you want to solder. A bit of 220 or 320 sand paper folded over and pull just the end of the wire through it a few times usually works.

Thanks, here finally we got pic uploads working again on the site.

LOL well almost,

Use tinned copper wire also known as bus bar wire and acid flux. You get results that look like this [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8468502]clicky[/link]

"Use tinned copper wire also known as bus bar wire and acid flux"

Tinned copper wire definitely: acid flux, never. Plumbers flux and clean is sufficient, and much less likely to corrode in the future.

Les

Never use acid flux unless you take exceptional care in thoroughly cleaning off all flux residue after soldering or you will soon have a badly corroded part. Wash with a basic solution such as soda water and scrub well.

It’s a mechanical joint so acid flux is ok just wash it clean after your done. Copper is a poor choice for wrapping piano wire it’s the weakest link in the joint. Instead I use 16, 17, 18 or 19 gauge tie wire or mechanics wire in either black steel for stove pipe repair it also comes in galvanized. When you wrap it tight it will hold everything in place and allow you to make final adjustments before soldering. You need a soldering iron with a large tip so it holds the heat when in use soldering guns and small irons will melt the solder but might not tin all the surfaces. Sand everything to be soldered until bright that includes the wrapping wire before you wrap. If done right the solder will wick down thru the whole joint and remain shiny after solidifying. These are pictures of a 20 year old Lazy Ace done this way. Painted or unpainted as long as you clean the joint well there is no corrosion. Never had any of them let go either and this is used as a glider tug and on floats so it has had some pretty rough usage. These heavy duty soldering irons work better than an open flame I found mine for $29 its the large heating element that allows you to solder large joints http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP175-1.../dp/B00002N7S4 I also swear by Staybright low temp silver solder. Most hobby shops sell it in this size.

LesUyeda- plumbers flux is acid flux. It's water soluble so there are no corrosion problems in the pipe afterwards.

"LesUyeda- plumbers flux is acid flux."

Not the stuff I have been using since I bought my house in '63.

Les

"It’s a mechanical joint so acid flux is ok just wash it clean after your done."

And just how does one be certain to wash it clean inside, under, all the wire wrap. That technique assumes that the solder flow fills ALL gaps and voids, but with no method of inspection, one never knows.

Les

A trick I use after soldering with acid flux is to make up a paste of baking soda and water and use that to wash the joint. I have been doing that for 60 years without any corrosion problems at all.

Bruce

I just wipe down the joint after soldering and apply a liberal coat of light weight oil.