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Create Longer Servo Extensions
Here is an easy way to put ends on your wire and create a longer servo extension to your specifications.
When using bulk servo wire, cut a short servo extension in half and splice the pieces onto the bulk wire.
Links: Servo Extensions and Leads, Bulk Servo Wire



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When a longer servo lead is needed I prefer to splice in a soldered extension rather than a plug in wherever possible - less resistance and signal loss and the possibility of accidental disconnection is eliminated. I have a tutorial on my web site... http://www.grosbeakrc.ca/tutorials/splice.html

I like your clamp block with clothes pins! Also like your 2x4 for holding your epoxy bottles upside down and ready for a fast draw, haha. Nice pics and tutorial. I use the same soldering station/iron.

The only thing I do differently, is to stagger the splices, so as to reduce the overall diameter of the joint.

Les

I kept the bottles upside down for a while... then they started to leak. Now I keep them right side up and try to be patient for the ten or fifteen seconds it takes for the epoxy to get to the nozzle once they're in hand and inverted...

The joint diameter hasn't been a problem for me, but that's a good idea.

I really don't like making butt splices, I never have good luck with them. I just buy the wire and the connector kits from my hobby shop and make connector leads any length that I want.

"I kept the bottles upside down for a while... then they started to leak."

I found that the change in temperature in the garage caused that to happen to me. The air in the bottle heated, and expanded. Now I put them in a holder, upside down, only while I am building.

Les

Isn't there a limit to the length a servo extension, before things get glitchy? Or am I wrong?

"Isn't there a limit to the length a servo extension, before things get glitchy? Or am I wrong?"

You are not wrong, but I have never run/ran into that problem. And the kids and I have done this size.

Les

Props to you! I tried... REALLY tried - to make some extensions. Good wire, proper tool, right connectors - but after several hours of failure after failure I gave up in disgust. I'm much better at soldering!

Well, it takes a delicate touch. I learned how to do it in the Navy many years ago, 'bout the time the quit using marlinspikes to splice the mainbrace.

Nice tutorial and description with pcs. Like the jig for assembling, will use this on my next project.

When I make mine, I will twist the two wires together and clean with flux before soldering. Is the flux necessary for this joint ?

EDIT; Me Bad. Went back and re-read the tutorial and seen in step #8, you did use flux to clean the joint. Sorry for not paying attention.

OK, time for my 2 cents. First of all the splices create resistance, resistance causes voltage drop and there is Know getting around it. plugs are the worst. You need to know that amps is the driver for the voltage and thats what drives the servo. Wire size is important on long leads of 24" and longer because resistance is lower in a 18 ga. wire than it is in a 24ga. wire and you need it to push the voltage further and get there with more amps to use. So if your servo is wired with 22 ga. then extend it with 18 ga. and do it with one splice as close to servo as practical. Your better off buying the leads for many of the most common extensions or get the wire and ends and make them up. Twist splices are the best way to make the splice and no tinning is needed use rosin core solder when doing electrical work and heat shrink tubing over that, stagger the splices and then use heat shrink over the 3 splices, it will look good and your servo will like it. By the way many of the made up servo splice leads have gold pins, their the best.

Leroy