I'm going to be running some big Super Tigres on 0% nitro fuel, and was wondering if fuel proof paint is required. I want to paint with latex, and would like to avoid having to fuel proof it.

The oil may still attack the latex.

You may have better luck with Rustoleum.,

All that I have read about latex is that it is not fuel proof. I'm flying a SPAD Debonair painted in latex and top coated with Defthane Polyurethane. I've had sucess with this combo. No paint problem. Next flight I am testing another top coat product. Then I am going test straight latex to see how it holds. My Debonair is a good test platform. My problem is finding the time to fly.

The balsa will get soft and weak if you do not protect it from glo fuel ,even with no nitro in it
That will shorten the airframes life span
The issue i think is the oil soaling into th wood ,as the alcohol and nitro evaporate ,but the oil does not
i have been working with glo fuel for a total of 30 years , in control line and then RC for about 25 years
I fly only two cycle glo
If you have any interest in two cycle ,you might like to see my notes on the subject
Forums --RC Airplanes --Tips and techniques -- what you have learned to keep your glo ( two cycle only ) aircraft flying more reliably
Rustoleum hiigh gloss ,white and black are both fuel proof
My first choice , to fuel proof is , Sig buyterate clear dope ,very light ,and dries super fast ,but i am old school with my building techniques
You can seal your seams and decals edges , from your fllm coverings ,so hot fuel oil does not work its way under a film covering by using the Sig dope ,paint over the seams
You often cannot see that it has been applied to a film covering ,so its a win win ,to keep the airframe sound for many years
A number of my planes ,i have been flying for 20 years
You can see my --Gallery --to the left of this post , for some of the best flying two cycle glo aircraft , that have been available for the last 20-25 years
Enjoy !

The problem with latex base is that it is dissolved by water and methanol. It is a real problem now that the high VOC paints are outlawed. I have had some luck with some of the newer latex paints that have a bit of a chemical smell to them. I think the water based Tremclad was a bit fuelproof, if you can find that. We had it stocked here for a while, and then it was gone. Home Depot and Lowes sometimes have sample size cans that they mix colours for you for cheap, like $5, if you want to try it, but you may need a clearcoat later. There are a lot of threads on this if you do a search. Maybe an acrylic latex or epoxy may work. The problem is that you waste your money on it if you buy it and throw it away. I had some two part garage floor paint that seemed ok with nitro. It was fairly expensive and heavy, and only came in grey and tan. It was just leftovers from the floor, but was a water cleanup and I wanted to see if it worked on foam, and it did. Most two part paints are ok for being fuelproof.

I agree with aspeed. I currently have a 1/12th AT-6 cowling I shot with color matched orange monokote color.(The 5.00 sample can) I then shot Nelson hobbies clear on it. Looks great and fuel proof.


Edit: Come to think of it, after seeing scale only 4 me, I believe the Nelson product, is System Three, only re-labeled.

Over latex, this works great too,,,
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm

use the cross linker,, for nitro

more details here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ques...-painting.html

Yeah, I have all of the Rustoleum colors on hand, and also some Nelson/System 3 colors and clear, just was hoping to hear that nitro is what eats the paint. Thanks for all the tips! Looks like I'll spray latex on , then clear coat it with Nelson's.

Oh, and since all of my painting is done in the house, I have to stick to low/no odor products.

Providing that info at the beginning would have helped us to formulate answers to suite your needs. For instance, I would never have suggested Rustoleum, I would have suggested Nelson's, which by the way, has an amine smell to it.