vasek

My Feedback: (4)

pic no.1, post #620: the heavy looking "shoes" that keep the planes from moving around in the trailer (they are wheel-weights, right?)

Iflyit

My Feedback: (512)

Those are the cat food bowls I was talking about in post #622

rfaster

My Feedback: (1)

Nice - I'm getting itchy to fly my 40%.... So I plan to do a quick and dirty 2nd level and hang the plywood sheet with house shelf hangers like I saw in previous posts. Plan to measure and have local lumber yard cut to size.

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

rfaster,

Do not take the quick and easy way to finishing your trailer. If you do, then don't be surprised some day when you open the doors at the field and see your planes in a heap. Shelving and brackets must be well secured and your planes must be supported and secured.
Take your time and everyone will be envious of you at the field.

R/C Foolish

LeeL

My Feedback: (1)

I cant agree with r/c foolish enough on the last post dont take the quick route take your time and do it right, there is nothing that will ruin the day like showing up at a fly-in or the field only to open the doors up and find a pile of crunched up balsa or busted up composites[&o]

rfaster

My Feedback: (1)

Point well taken! Well I guess another good thing about taking my time finishing my trailer is that my Super Extra stays intact Longer :-).

Ok - so I have a few questions about mounting the shelf tracks - I read thru the thread again and read that I would need to use sheet metal screws to screw the shelf tracks into the trailer. I have a new Haulmark 5X10 and when I look inside I only see the Luan - but can't tell where the metal studs are? Is it safe to juse screw the shelf tracks directly to the luan - one in the front of trailer -middle and back? Or do I need to figure out where the metal studs are?

Note - My trailer is short to fit into garage - so the top of my trailer is FLAT - on other trailers I have seen the top is rounded and its easy to see where the metal studs are.


--------------------

rfaster,

Do not take the quick and easy way to finishing your trailer. If you do, then don't be surprised some day when you open the doors at the field and see your planes in a heap. Shelving and brackets must be well secured and your planes must be supported and secured.
Take your time and everyone will be envious of you at the field.

R/C Foolish
[/quote]

tsands

My Feedback: (3)

Ummm. You should be able to see where the luan is attached. No? It has to have MECHANICAL fasteners somewhere holding it to the studs. Worse case scenario the luan is 1/4 in. thick so just find them

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

I've never had a trailer and I want one to haul 2 x 35% planes, can fit in my garage, and is in the $2500-$2700 range.

I found that Car Mate makes a 5 x 10 that seems reasonable... what do you know about the brand?

I also see lots of Haulmark Trailers on here... what model are people getting? The transport looks like it has leaf spring axles on the website... I'm guess people are getting the Cub for the Torflex?

Literally no chance that I will ever move to 40%... I'm really happy where I am.

We had a kid and the wife can no longer come to IMAC events with me (which she actually likes)... need trailer soon... mairrage at stake!

Thanks,
Jason

narpets

I have a Car Mate and love it. It was built WAY better ( thicker frame and way thicker interior real ply, not Luan) built than the ones I was looking at at Lowes/Home Depot. One piece roof too where the others were 3 piece. Mine has the domed roof and it is too tall for my garage; the roof rack on my wife's Quest touches the molding when she goes in. Oh yea, and I paid less than $100 more for the Car Mate with a side door than the ones at Lowes/Home Depot w/o a side door.

The ride even when empty is nice and smooth. I have the 8' and it is 960# empty, and it has the Torque rod suspension. I used to tow it with a 96 Maxima ( maybe almost 2,500#s) , and on all but the roughest roads it didn't bounce the car around at all. I now tow it with a 4Runner (almost 5,000#s) and I have to be careful I don't take bends too fast as it is really easy to forget it is behind; so the trailer must be sprung properly.

I forget if it was mentioned here earlier as I've been following this thread since the first page, but if you have a chance to get a side door, do so. I almost didn't but did, and am really glad I did. Can't imagine not having it.

And for the poster earlier about backing up the trailer. It will get easier over time... The mistake I made was I was backing up way too fast ( and I thought I was going slow). My buddy who is a truck driver watched me back up and told me to slow down ( to a slow crawl) and it got a whole lot easier. But I guess some people have the knack.. The first time my wife backed up here pop-up camper she put it right between the mailbox and telephone pole. There is less than a foot on each side, and does it the first try every time.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

The one I am looking at is a 5x10 with a side door, dual back doors, stone gaurd, lite, and that's about it.

How tall is yours? I'm thinking of having one built custom... cut 6" shorter to fit the garage.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Ok... I found my trailer... I'm getting a PACE AMERICAN custom made.

My next question... which will tow easier behind a Toyota Sienna mini-van (with towing package... 2" RX, trans cooler, etc...)... a 5 x 10 blunt nose or 6 x 10 V-nose?

Thanks.

bhanley

As commented by one of the guys in the other trailer thread, the force required to tow
is basically determined by frontal area, ie, the higher and the wider the more
"pull" will be required and the lower the gas mileage. Some aerodynamic
assistance (v nose or bubble...) will help but my guess would be that the
improvement would be marginal.

narpets

Do you still need the height? If so I can measure tonight when I get home.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Turns out Pace doesn't make a bubble for a 5' wide trailer... bummer.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Lots of ideas on interior set ups for larger trailers. I have just finished a 4x8 built on a Harbor Freight frame posted elsewhere under Step by Step Trailer Build. Any ideas on interior set ups would help. Great trailers here!

Thanks

JEB

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

BPS,
I just got my harbor freight frame today. Its all assembled and ready to start the box. The holes for the pins didnt line up on one side of the tongue frame. Doesnt matter cause I'm gonna weld it to the rest of the frame anyway. I'm never gonna fold it up so it wont be needed. Its nice and easy to move around, wont bust a gut lifting. I also did a test tow for about a 1/4 mile and it towed straight and easy. All I have left to do (besides the welding) is to regrease the axle bearings and I'm ready to start the box. Mine is gonna be 4'x 10' long. I got some big wings to accomodate. It'll be a 1' overhang fore and aft and there will be a V nose up front. I also managed to find a spare for it at Wally World yesterday. I like the way yours opens up think I'll follow your lead. My only decision left to make is how tall to make it. I'm considering 40". That ought to accomodate the tallest fin/rudder I'll do. My target weight is 500lbs loaded.
Edwin

airstik2003

good luck ed

500 sounds about right for that size
give or take

38

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

BPS,
What did you use to attach your skins to the frame. I was thinking of using silicon as a seal and 1" brads to get it together. Then come back with some 1/16" thick aluminum angle for the corners with screws.
Edwin

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Edwin,

My trailer is built from plywood and wood. Sealed and then painted with exterior latex. The wood frame was assembled with Elmers polyurethane glue and brads. Great system and very strong bonds.

JEB

sebo

Don't forget to get a spare tire. Having to leave the trailer along the side of a highway with all your goodies in it for just 15 minutes while you go for help is, well........ You can always throw it in your trunk along with a jack.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Great point on the spare tire. I plan on using the car or truck jack. It is a sissors type jack and will work just fine. Saves me from having to carry another jack. The spare tire will mount under the front of the trailer on a swing down arm made from aluminum. The tire weighs very little and this will keep it out of sight for me but more importantly from some one seeking to "borrow" one on a permemant basis!

JEB

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Already got my spare. Wally world had it. Kinda expensive but still cheaper than buying a new axle to accomodate 5 bolt hubs. Havent decided where to put the spare yet though. Was thinking under the floor. Will just wait and see when I get to that point. Thats good to hear. I think I'll do my frame like yours. Looks light enough.
Edwin

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

I am going to go with a nice trailer... custom ordered Wells Cargo 5 x 10 V-nose.

My big questions... I can get it with either a 2200 lbs axle or 3500 lbs axle (both Torflex). Which should I get?

ctshepherd

My Feedback: (34)

Not that I have a trailer yet, but I would more than likely go with the lighter sprung axle. You are not going to be hauling around 1500# airplanes in the thing, so the lighter sprung axle should give you a softer ride (in theory). Others who actually have a trailer can speak with more authority on this subject.[8D]

How much is the 5x10 v- nose going to cost and what options are you looking to add?

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Yeah... I've decided I'm going ot get the 2200 lbs axle.

It will be about $3100 for the 5 x 10 V-nose with 36" side door w/ cam-lock, LED lights, flow through vent system, stone guard, etc... Wells are expensive, but they are the best. Should last forever.