people that have wired their trailer for 110v
#2

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Check out your local Camping or Motor Home Sales and Supply! My Mobile Traveler has a A/C cord of about 25 or so feet to plug into either the campsite or at home in the driveway..
It exits through a small access door on the drivers side, which is weather proof and is lockable.
Including a picture of My Toys and on the side of the Motor Home just below the back side window and in front of the Sabre V65 Trunk is the A/C Hook Up Door.. Just inside below my couch/bed is the coil of wire that goes out the access.
Also at Home Depot a weather proof A/C cover and socket that would work, either 110 or 220 is available.
Check out your local Camping or Motor Home Sales and Supply! My Mobile Traveler has a A/C cord of about 25 or so feet to plug into either the campsite or at home in the driveway..
It exits through a small access door on the drivers side, which is weather proof and is lockable.
Including a picture of My Toys and on the side of the Motor Home just below the back side window and in front of the Sabre V65 Trunk is the A/C Hook Up Door.. Just inside below my couch/bed is the coil of wire that goes out the access.
Also at Home Depot a weather proof A/C cover and socket that would work, either 110 or 220 is available.
#3

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From: Charlotte, NC
John,
Can you surface mount the box, or is this something you would rather not do...? If you use a WP Box, all you need is a hole that the wire will pass through, the box hole size is 1/2 inch threaded. Another thought is you could mount the box under the floor and run the wiring in conduit, through the frame. If you want just the flush receptacle cover, you will need to make a larger hole to accommodate the box and receptacle.
If you are talking about the "Power Feed" TO the trailer, that is a whole different scenario........
There are some very small, very quiet, and inexpensive generators on the market, that will fill 90% of your power needs, and you don't have to worry about "plugging" in. That is, if you are just going to use lights and chargers.....if you are running a machine shop in there, I might suggest a 3 phase hook-up........
Can you surface mount the box, or is this something you would rather not do...? If you use a WP Box, all you need is a hole that the wire will pass through, the box hole size is 1/2 inch threaded. Another thought is you could mount the box under the floor and run the wiring in conduit, through the frame. If you want just the flush receptacle cover, you will need to make a larger hole to accommodate the box and receptacle.
If you are talking about the "Power Feed" TO the trailer, that is a whole different scenario........
There are some very small, very quiet, and inexpensive generators on the market, that will fill 90% of your power needs, and you don't have to worry about "plugging" in. That is, if you are just going to use lights and chargers.....if you are running a machine shop in there, I might suggest a 3 phase hook-up........
#5
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From: Kenner, LA
If all you are interested in is plugging in your chargers or a light bulb, why not just install a good deep cycle battery somewhere in the trailer or a trailer tongue box. Then if you want 110volts, just find a convenient place to mount an inverter. Depending on the size of the inverter, you can run chargers, drill motors, even run you coffee pot.
#6
Check with your local electrician or elect supply store , ask for a exterior motor base cover it looks like an reversed recepticle cover . drill the appropriate size hole in an exterior wall and flush mount the unit . when you lift the lid you will see the male prongs inside
, just plug you extension cord into the motor base .
I have mine wired into a power convertor/batt charger from a motor home so i can have multiple fused 12v
circuits and 110/120v circuits that are protected .
this part may only be avail to a liscenced electrician depending on your local codes .
, just plug you extension cord into the motor base .
I have mine wired into a power convertor/batt charger from a motor home so i can have multiple fused 12v
circuits and 110/120v circuits that are protected .
this part may only be avail to a liscenced electrician depending on your local codes .
#8
JohnVH ,
A couple of pics of my motor base cover so you can see what i described.
With this set up i just have to plug in an extension cord to the motor base (or generator cord for those
weekends at the flying field.
A couple of pics of my motor base cover so you can see what i described.
With this set up i just have to plug in an extension cord to the motor base (or generator cord for those
weekends at the flying field.
#9
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From: Des moines, IA
Make sure you run a four wire cable and ground the trailer to the ground, not the neutral. This sholuldn't be a problem, but be safe! Trust me on this, I do it for a living.
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From: Tampa, FL
I went to Home Depot and bought this box. It's not flush mounted but doesn't look bad. I made a extension chord with two male connectors. Here is a link to my custom trailer job in progress. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_13..._3/key_/tm.htm
#13

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From: Charlotte, NC
RCGUY,
The only problem with using 2 "Male" plugs on an extension cord is......
If someone was to accidentally knock the plug from the receptacle, you would have a LIVE exposed end laying on the ground......also, if you forget and plug the power side in first, there is a great potential for getting shocked. This is not a very good situation, especially if children are around.
There is a reason that the "Proper" electrical devices should be used.
The only problem with using 2 "Male" plugs on an extension cord is......
If someone was to accidentally knock the plug from the receptacle, you would have a LIVE exposed end laying on the ground......also, if you forget and plug the power side in first, there is a great potential for getting shocked. This is not a very good situation, especially if children are around.
There is a reason that the "Proper" electrical devices should be used.
#14
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From: Des moines, IA
RC Guy;
They call that a dead man's cord, there's a reason they call it that.
I made a extension chord with two male connectors.
#16

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From: Charlotte, NC
John,
It's called a "Straight Blade Inlet" 120 volt, 3 wire grounding male recessed receptacle. Be sure the one you get has a weather proof cover and is NOT of the "Twist Lok" variety. If you explain to the counter person what you are doing, they will fix you up. I'm pretty sure the one above is made by Leviton. GE, Hubbell and Daniel Woodhead also manufacture them, the last two being VERY expensive.
Grainger carries them, any marine store outlet (West Marine comes to mind [will be expensive]) or an electrical supply house can get them if they don't have them in stock. I don't think Lowes or Home Depot would have them, as it is not a "big mover" item.
If for some reason you can't find it there, I would be glad to get you one and ship it to you. I deal with most of the larger electrical manufacturers hear in the East.[X(]
Hope this helps.................
It's called a "Straight Blade Inlet" 120 volt, 3 wire grounding male recessed receptacle. Be sure the one you get has a weather proof cover and is NOT of the "Twist Lok" variety. If you explain to the counter person what you are doing, they will fix you up. I'm pretty sure the one above is made by Leviton. GE, Hubbell and Daniel Woodhead also manufacture them, the last two being VERY expensive.
Grainger carries them, any marine store outlet (West Marine comes to mind [will be expensive]) or an electrical supply house can get them if they don't have them in stock. I don't think Lowes or Home Depot would have them, as it is not a "big mover" item.
If for some reason you can't find it there, I would be glad to get you one and ship it to you. I deal with most of the larger electrical manufacturers hear in the East.[X(]
Hope this helps.................
#18

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John....the only way you can get by with the double male extension
cord, is to use the twist-lock type 3 prong on the trailer....and then you
always want to plug the trailer cord in first....and then the power end.
This will eliminate the live wire problem. You could use this system if
you were careful....however, I wouldn't recommend it within a 10 mile
radius of a young boy. [X(]
Dave.
cord, is to use the twist-lock type 3 prong on the trailer....and then you
always want to plug the trailer cord in first....and then the power end.
This will eliminate the live wire problem. You could use this system if
you were careful....however, I wouldn't recommend it within a 10 mile
radius of a young boy. [X(]
Dave.
#20

My Feedback: (21)
Another option (and bullet proof) is to use a set up like on a
motorhome....where the power cord is in a compartment, hard
wired in, and water proof. Open the door, pull out the cord, and
plug it in.
With the small amount of power you want to draw, you don't need
a thick expensive cord, and you'll never forget, and leave the cord behind.
Dave.
motorhome....where the power cord is in a compartment, hard
wired in, and water proof. Open the door, pull out the cord, and
plug it in.
With the small amount of power you want to draw, you don't need
a thick expensive cord, and you'll never forget, and leave the cord behind.

Dave.
#21

My Feedback: (21)
John....
....another thing you want to think about....I presume the trailer
will be parked out behind your house, or in the driveway, or
whatever....when you are charging your stuff, or working on
something inside the trailer.
Get a 8" grounding rod, and pound it into the ground next to where
the trailer is parked....hook a 6' wire to it, with a big alligator clip....
yep....ground that dude when your running elec. power in there,
and use a GFI recepticle on the house end. With that set-up....the
slightest ground fault (or short) will trip the safety....and cut the
power off instantly.
....another thing you want to think about....I presume the trailer
will be parked out behind your house, or in the driveway, or
whatever....when you are charging your stuff, or working on
something inside the trailer.
Get a 8" grounding rod, and pound it into the ground next to where
the trailer is parked....hook a 6' wire to it, with a big alligator clip....
yep....ground that dude when your running elec. power in there,
and use a GFI recepticle on the house end. With that set-up....the
slightest ground fault (or short) will trip the safety....and cut the
power off instantly.
#23

My Feedback: (21)
ORIGINAL: JohnVH
Oh, is that a must do? A buddy doesnt ground his out....
Oh, is that a must do? A buddy doesnt ground his out....
it gets kinda damp....I'd call it "highly recommended".

I was a Power Production Specialist for 11 years in the Air Force.
Generators and small engine equiptment. If you were working on
the other end of one of my generators....you'd want to make darn
sure I had that puppy grounded. (you might turn into a light bulb) [X(]


