One problem I have to admit that I here quite often from other guys who try Koverall for the first time, or even guys who use it often, is how to trim it effectively? You could use a knife or a scissors, but that is one of the more time consuming and vexing of ways to accomplish your goal.

I have found the easiest way to trim Koverall is simply to sand around the edges of it with 150-220 grit sanding block. This works great at removing the Koverall, and gives you a nice straight edge.

FRAYING?
There's another problem. The fraying. One of the most common complaints I here is how to get rid of that frayed edge after sanding off the excess.

Here's how it is done:
1. Simply sand down the edge the best you can until it is nice and straight with nothing but just a little fray left. You could try to add more dope around the edges to hold it down, but that doesn't always work, and can leave a lumpy edge.
2. So, Use a Remington micro-screen electric razor to simply shave off the fuzz. It only takes a few minutes, and gives you a perfect edge, ready for further coats of dope to seal. Norelcos don't work as good, the Remingtons have a nice straight edge for shaving with.

That's it!! An electric razor is a great way to simply shave off the extra fuzzy fabric that plagues the best of us Koverall users.

Patriot

Kite guys use a hot knife to cut their coverings. Works well with koverall too. I like to sand like you do though.

Last night I finished covering my sixth airplane using Koverall (a Hog Bipe). Each time I learn something new. I won’t rehash all that’s been said before, but will add some hints that I’ve found that may make the job easier.

If you don’t have a well-ventilated workplace, by all means stick to the pre-finished, iron-on coverings. I don’t believe occasional exposure to dope fumes and solvents are harmful (if they were, by now I would either be dead or seriously ill) but they can certainly be annoying to family and neighbors.

1. Use a fabric cement made for full-scale aircraft to attach the Koverall to the structure. I used Stix-It and Balsaloc for my first two airplanes. While they work, fraying is a constant irritation and trimming is a hassle. If you use fabric cement for attaching the fabric, trimming is simple. The cement bonds the fibers together and the edges can be trimmed with a razor blade without fraying. (I use Fab-Tac. Some other brands are Rand-O-Bond, and Sure Seam, all available from Aircraft Spruce & Speciality Co.) If you use nitrate dope, be sure to use the dope sold for full-scale applications right from the can. The clear dope packaged for models is already thinned for brushing and will not be very effective.

2. Get a good quality, sharp pair of pinking shears. This was an expense I put off until my third airplane but Koverall tends to fray badly and pinked edges make neat overlapped joints and cuts down on fraying generally. (a cheap pair will be worse than having none)

3. Use an applicator bottle to apply the adhesive rather than a brush. I used a hair dye bottle from a beauty supply shop to apply the cement and it makes it easier to get the stuff where you want it with a minimum of mess.

4. Have a supply of acetone on hand to clean fingers. Covering with fabric cement is inherently messy.

5. Have a supply of single edge razor blades on hand. Koverall is tough and dulls the blades fast.

Covering with Koverall and dope is certainly more trouble than other coverings. However the end result is an extremely tough and durable, light weight covering that stays taut in all conditions and looks good. To me it is worth it.

I have always used Rustoleum primer over my Koverall before painting. But, I came across some Krylon white primer on sale, will this work just as good?

Patriot

There are a lot of paints that will "work". Most of them are on the heavy side. If you are going to go the bare fabric route, aircraft dope all the way will give the lightest, most effective finish and is easy to repair.