rusgmil

My Feedback: (1)

Built a Skyraider and I need to apply the exhaust residue to the fuse sides (Skyraiders don't look scale without it). Anyone know a good way to do this?

Primodus

My Feedback: (56)

I would imagine it will take "some" amount of artistic input on your part, but that being said, some type of fuel proof paint in an airbrush application maybe? It's the same principle as detailing plastic models, I think, only you need the stuff to be fuel proof. Just a thought

Luke[8D]

P.S. You might check pics of others to get a feel for the areas to be covered to give it a truly scale look. Also check for pics of the real deal.

davej78

I remember a trick from my platic kit building days where a pice of plastic sprue would be lit and the resulting oily smoke allowed to dirty up the area required, never tried it on scale plane though!

Taildrager-inactive

My Feedback: (11)

On a glassed fuse I used ink on my 1st attempt. Not the best but I will play with it till it looks right. This was a ARF that the covering was crappy, so pulled the covering, glassed, & painted with Krylon.

CafeenMan

If you airbrush it carefully it will look good, but it will also look airbrushed.

The first thing is that on any scale model, black is never black. It's various shades of gray. In fact, when I paint plastic models, I never use more than about 80% gray to represent black.

This is a technique that has been used by scale plastic modelers for a long time and it looks very real.

Use an airbrush to mist the lightest gray exhaust. A little is a lot so don't over-do it.

Get some pastel chalks in various grays and burnt sienna, etc. Grind them up on a piece of sandpaper and then put them in small bottles.

Use a soft brush to apply them. If you don't like what you did, it washes off and you can start over.

Finally you have to seal it. Use whatever clear coat you will be using and mist it on lightly for a couple coats. If you put it on too thick, the chalk turns into paint pigment and won't have the effect you're looking for.

Obviously if you touch the stuff before you clear coat it, then it will smear and come off.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

I build plastic as well as rc and this is an easy one to answer.

The best way to simulate exhaust residue on the sides of the skyraider are with an airbrush, and done correctly they WILL NOT look airbrushed.

Caffeenman is righ about the colors but exhaust stains are actually more than one color, often shades of lighter greys, browns and even white near the stacks themselves.

The best way to acheive the effect your looking for is to apply the colors with your airbrush but with one critical detail. The paint you shoot through your airbrush should be thinned A LOT before applying it. By using the highly thinned mixture you can build it up a layer at a time and it results in a very convincing effect. When I build plastic kits I start by thinning the paint about 70/30 thinner/paint and test on a peice of scrap. If the coat goes on heavy enough that you can see a defined edge to the pattern the paint is still too thick, thin it more. Yeah the stuff will be like water but it dries very fast and gives you a high degree of control while applying the streaks that make up a realistic looking exhaust stain.

Taildrager-inactive

My Feedback: (11)

Pictures guys we need pictures of your work. I don't think someone would spend $200 on a airbrush & compresser just to make 4 exhaust streaks on a Skyraider, there has to be another way.

Jimmbbo

Check this site out (about 2/3 down the page) - will blow you away...

http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/SBD/htm...weathering.htm

Cheers!

Jim

CafeenMan

That's what I was talking about. On close examination it is obviously airbrushed. From a short distance away and in the air it will look awesome. I'm not saying it looks bad because obviously it is excellent work. All I'm saying is that it's easy to see most of the work is airbrush work.

BTW.... no modeler needs a $200 airbrush unless they're actually painting murals on their models. But for coverage coats and weathering that's way too much airbrush.

- Paul

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

A $200 airbrush would be the wrong tool for the job anyway, great for spraying fine lines and doing detail work but totally unnecessary in this instance. Heck even a Pasche VL Double action is only about $70 - $80 and still isn't really needed.

Badger sells the single action 350 for about $35 and will work fine for doing this type of detail work. It can be used with canned air which is roughly $10 a can and one can should be enough to do the exhaust stains on a skyraider. If your really cheap there are adapters to allow you to hook up your air hose to a tire fitting, allowing you to use a spare auto tire as a pressure vessel.

CafeenMan

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...htm#airbrushes