When applying monokote, "Clean up that bulsa!!"

It is turely amazing how much better it sticks!!

I agree with the cleaning. I never use a tack rag though as it seems to leave an oily residue. I use a slightly damp cloth.

I also use Balsarite, but only around the edges for tight seams. The instructions say to coat the entire framework, but on flat surfaces it doesn't allow the covering to "move" while shrinking and causes tiny wrinkles that won't iron out.

Before covering, I give my shop a thorough cleaning, you'd be surprised how much fine dust is in the air and on the bench.

Jerry Nelson (Litefilm) suggests a spritzing with hair spray. I have never tried it, but some claim it works good.

BO

I don't use tac rags either. That wax gets all over my hands and I can only assume it gets on the wood too. I blow out the structure using my air compressor and then use a shop vac with a brush attachment to vacuum.

I re-vacuum between pieces of covering - especially when using transparents. I hate seeing dust and chips inside the model and once they're sealed inside, they're there to stay. I also make sure to wipe fingerprints off the inside of first piece of covering after it's ironed down and be very careful not to touch the inside of the second piece that seals the structure.

For example, a wing is covered bottom first. After that piece is on, then I clean it inside before putting on the top piece. I only worry about this with transparents - not opaques.

- Paul

I'll just mention the virtues of the vacuum cleaner, for this purpose. I like to vacuum the balsa surfaces before ironing, and that includes the interior of built up surfaces. I use the brush thing and sort of scrub the surface or stringers, gently. I think it picks up pretty much everything of importance inside the built-up structure, while I'm at it. I bought a computer keyboard vacuuming set, but haven't tried it yet.

Good luck,
Dave Olson

Scar - I bought one of those little hoses that attaches to a larger hose. It was a waste of money. It loses too much suction to be useful, but the brush attachments can get into tighter areas and loosen stuff up, so in that regard it's ok.

But I found a regular brush attachment can get the potato chips out of the keyboard pretty well. When the keyboard gets really bad, I disconnect it and wash it in the tub. Let it dry for a couple days and hook it back up. Having a second keyboard is helpful.

- Paul

I like using a tack rag after vaccuming. It's always surprising how much more balsa dust sticks to the rag. I don't press hard, as a matter of fact, very little if any pressure is used on the tack rag. But, then I sand down to between 1000 grit and 1500 grit wet and dry and am chasing small particals of dust. Just drag it over the surface. I build in the garage, but the covering is done inside. Too much junk blowing around outside.

If you want to ensure that the balsa is really clean, blow it off with the air compressor, vacuum it with a horsehair end brush and then wipe it with a lint free cloth wetted with mineral siprits. You will be amazed at the balsa dust that comes off on the wetted rag after you have vacuumed it to death! The mineral spirits dries moderatly quickly and will not raise the grain like water or alcohol. It also removes any grease from your skin etc.

Hoping someone out there can help with this one. I needed to make a minor repair on my Midstar. Trying to understand why the Monokote was not adhering, I concluded that the area I was trying to apply it to was exposed to some fuel. It's a small area (2" X 2") where the covering won't stick. Any suggestions?

Well, that would be why it's not sticking - Covering won't stick to oily wood.

You can try a few things depending on how big the area that you're re-doing is...

You can try covering the area with K2R Spot remover, let it sit for a few hours, remove it and re-apply if necessary. This will draw out the oil.

If it's just a small area - like a corner that won't stay down, just glue it down with CA.

I don't use tac rags either. That wax gets all over my hands and I can only assume it gets on the wood too.

Since a tack rag is primarily used in furnature finishing, I doubt very much that it is wax. I think a tack rag is coated with shellac.

Paul

Thanks. I was going to try talcum (mom's favorite) but the K2R sounds like a more logical option.

Corn Starch is also a good alternative to K2R. Sprinkle it on the area, rub it in, let dry and brush off. Repeat as needed to absorb the oil.

Depending on the area, after rubbing the corn starch in, hit it with the heat gun - brings the oil up to the surface. With K2R use the heat gun first, then spray.

After the oil is removed, be sure you seal the area. Some people use epoxy or Balsarite. I prefer SIG StixIt. I find StixIt has a much stronger adhesive (the wood will let go before the adhesive does ).

Much appreciated.