Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yeah, this is probably old news to many of you. But I'm an old geezer who grew up using enamels and lacquers. Always stank; required special thinners and lots of it. Lots of paper towels; rags; etc. When I used to airbrush scale plastic models it was a major PITA cleaning the airbrush between colors and cleanup afterwards.

Today, I dusted off my 30+ year old Binks Wren airbrush and used water based Createx paints to shoot some color on the fiberglass cowling of my P-47. After spraying the paint, I was looking at this cup of water I had on the table (I was outside in my backyard) and it dawned on me. I can just dunk the whole airbrush into the water! So I did! I pulled the trigger and it sucked water up the intake and instantly the cup of water changed to a diluted swirl and when I pulled the airbrush tip out it was spotless! Yahoo! I then dumped the paint bottles and caps in the cup and stuck the airbrush back in and pulled the trigger and it aerated the water and churned it all up and did a fair job of cleaning the bottles. The I picked up the garden hose and finished it off. Couldn't have been simpler. No stink. ANd everything just comes out spotless and air dries.

OMG! Water based paints are just sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better than the oil based!

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

just don't forget Createx are not fuel proof to anything and MUST be cleared. I sprayed a lot of createx (probably about 100 bottles of it) and I can't stand it. It has very poor adhesion for masking over, and it is near impossible to keep clean before you clear it. The low toxicity and water clean up are very nice, but the inherent problems with it just don't make it worth my time to use on anything. However, if you lack a proper space to paint with high toxin paints, they are a godsend, just make sure to clear them with a 2 part clear (which incidentally most body shops will spray for you if you want)

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

If you like the water-based paints try Behr exterior housepaint. The coverage and adhesion are very good. You can use a hairdryer between coats to dry it fast and you can mask over it almost immediately. BTW, Mr. Clean works great for cleaning up latexes in spray equipment.

I agree that the water-based paints have to be clearcoated with a fuel-proof paint.

Jim

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I used Lustrekote clear over the Createx so I should be ok. Thanks!

rduncan

Curious....which Createx? Did you try Createx AutoAir? I'm having good luck with that on most surfaces.

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

Yup, Createx auto air is pretty much all I've used, I don't know any serious airbrush artists anywhere that are using it either. It will work ok, but it's so problematic compared to Urethane. It's a shame, they have some awesome colors, to bad it's such a lousy paint.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I wonder if you are maybe not using it in its proper application? I disagree that it is lousy paint. I have used it on a couple projects and had perfect results and it is my understanding also that the best r/c car body painters prefer this paint (Faskolor/Createx are the same paint).

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

Createx will not stick to a lexan RC car body. I airbrush for a living, I spray a ton of paint in a week, and when Createx paints came out I was totally excited, I have sprayed tons of it, and I know what I'm doing and how to use it. It can be used ok, but in the world of custom paint, I don't have the time to wait for it to fully dry vs urethanes. With Urethane I can spray it and mask it in 10 minutes, it doesn't get marked by the mask, or even hands over it. I know a lot of very good airbrush artists, and none use Createx, but all have tried it.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

[sm=thumbup.gif] OK, I'll take your word for it!

What brand of urethane paint do you recommend? And it's water based, correct?

LGM Graphix

My Feedback: (22)

I think I got sort of off topic unfortunately, as I said in my first post, Urethanes require a proper set up to spray, they aren't water based unfortunately.
However, there is a water based laquer that although I've never used it, some friends of mine have used it on pattern planes and it looks to work pretty good, they have said adhesion is very good as well.
I'm not trying to turn you off of createx, if you like it then more power to you, I was just pointing out the things I didn't like about it. I guess my main reasoning behind pointing it out, is since you have to clear it with something that isn't going to have a low toxicity like the createx itself, you are further ahead to use the Urethanes if you have the facility. I guess for the most part I was just very dissappointed in the Createx, the rep I was dealing with knows I airbrush for a living, and he really played up the Createx, so I had very very high hopes, and the truth is, when I first used it I thought it was pretty good, it was the more I used it that the less I liked it.
At any rate, as I said before, if you don't have a facility to spray the urethane then the Createx is a godsend, just don't spray urethane if you're going to stick with Createx, because once you do you'll never want to go back to Createx again

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

For anyone else who is interested, this is the website for Createx Auto Air paints:


http://www.autoaircolors.com/index.htm

narpets

I use AutoAir and love it ; I guess being an amature has it's advantages. I've used it on all sorts of plastic stuff ( covering, fuse for a corona, etc) and over other stuff like fiberglass/Water Based Poly and have had no problems. THe corona fuse took a pretty good wack when the Futaba receiver decided it din't like to play nice with my brushless motor. The fuse was all crickled and the paint stuck just fine.

And as an added bonus, since I fly electric,....no fuel proofing is needed