I have used latex paint just once on a big model. 2 coats brushed on and it was great.

Now I am building an 80" Spitfire and just about ready to paint. I intend to use Latex again, but expect I will need to spray it on to get the two main top surface camouflage colours to merge right.

I have sprayed a little acrylic lacquer and enamel before, but never latex. I have just acquired a small touch-up gun with a .25 litre capacity and intend to try that.

Can someone suggest what paint/water mix I should start with?

Any other hints or suggestions will be welcome.

I seem to recall there was a Vaillancourt article about this subject somewhere but darned if I can find it anywhere now.

Alan W

Here's the link to article from Model Airplane News:

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

G'Day Alan.
Did you have much trouble locating Latex in NZ? I have asked at a few paint shops here in OZ and I get a look like I have an "All Black" guernsey on .
Perhaps one of you blokes in QLD could point me in the right direction.

Bill Jennings.

pilotkelowna,

Thanks for that info. I have printed that off and will inwardly digest. I still didn`t see a suggested paint/water mix though. I`ll start something like 1 to 1 and just experiment from there.

Bill, after next Saturday you`ll be proud to be seen in that black jersey. I gather many of the yankee products you read about on here don't ring any bells here downunder, but I just use common garden acrylic housepaint. I`m told that Resene is better quality than Benjamin Moore, but how would I know. Resene worked fine brushed on my Eindecker. I wonder if British Paints product is available in USA?

After a lot of homework I did find that some Rust-oleum cans may be available here if you go looking hard enough. I`ll give that a try sometime too.

Alan W

Bill, int/ext acrylic paint is latex paint.

Hi Alan,

1 to 1 mix with latex is too thin. It will probably run when you spray it. With a touchup gun I start with maybe 15 to 20 % water. It depends on the color, too. The lighter colors seem to have a heavier pigment and need to be thinned more, but you have to experiment. Even with the airbrush I thin it maybe 25% and go from there.

I keep a hairdryer handy for speeding up drying between coats and also to dry it fast if a run starts to happen. Vaillancourt's article recommends a heatgun but I think that's too hot. A hairdryer works fine. I also like to have a detergent solution and a small, stiff brush handy for cleaning off the needle if the paint builds up on it.

Lot's of luck with your painting![sm=thumbup.gif]

Jim

Most US house paint labeled latex is not 100% latex. That may be why they don't label it that way. Pure latex paint would cost about $50 a gallon so most house paint is a mix of latex and enamal. True 100% latex is used for industrial paints and aviation and is somewhat fuelproof.

Hi Jim,

Now, that`s what I call good information. Thankyou very much for your input.

Right now it is too cold to paint, but as it's a beaut day out there we will go flying instead.

I`ll intend to go and get some paint mixed later today and take it from there. The airframe is now all covered and sealed but needs to be sanded before the painting proper starts.

I`ll let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

Alan W

Thanks Yakman.

Bill.

I have a suggestion Alpha W.

If this is your first time at "spraying" latex don't use your new plane
as a test bed .

Get a good size piece of glass and practice on that. This will help develop
your technique with thinning,pressure,and gun set-up etc. Before the paint
hardens wash it off and do it again until you feel comfortable with the process.

THEN do the plane

Good luck
Roby

Glad to help, Alan. One thing I forgot to mention...if the paint gets badly built up in the gun or airbrush, laquer thinner or acetone will dissolve it. Once it's dry, water and detergent won't cut it.

Jim

Hi Roby,

I had heard of that trick before, but thanks anyway. I might just be a little more basic than that and practise on a (empty) beer case instead!

Jim,

I`ll bear that in mind. I have plenty of lacquer thinners here but haven`t been able to track down any acetone for many moons.

Alan W

Alpha W

Good idea !

YA !! empty beer cases will work too.
I'm throwing out my glass next trash day, I have
to make room for the beer.

Good luck
Roby

Alan,
Just don't empty the beer case right before painting. Who knows what you'll end up with as a color scheme![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Jim

Couple of other things.

If you are using an air brush or detail gun, start out at 20 psi. If it won't spray properly, increase to 25 psi. If it still doesn't spray properly, the paint most likely needs additional thinning. You should be able to spray latex at 20 or 25 psi. You do not need to (or should) use a higher pressure.

A helpful hint - I add 1 - 1 1/2 caps of Flotrol per quart of UNDILUTED paint. The Flotrol retards drying somewhat, thus allowing any sags, etc to "level" themselves out.

Make sure the latex is completely cured BEFORE clear coating it. Press your thumb on a firm area, if it leaves a thumb print, it isn't cured (don't worry, the thumb print will disappear). Many latex paints cure in 7 - 10 days, but can take as long as 30 days.

As a personal preference, I like and use MinWax Polycrylic for a clear coat. It is a water base polyurethane that doesn't yellow. ACRYLIC lacquer, Ultracote clear and Lustercote clear are some other good choices for clear coating also.

Campy,
Have you proven that the MinWax Polycrylic is glow fuel proof? Thanks.

I have taken a test panel and poured straight fuel on it (I use 10% nitro) and left it overnite. After 24 hours the poly was a little soft, but not much. I feel that I am not going to let my planes sit with raw fuel/fuel residue on them for 24 hours, so there should be no problems. I have also done the same with clear ACRYLIC lacquer. The lacquer was also a little soft after 24 hours, but not as much as the poly. The most noticeable part was a slight "dragging" of the cloth when wiping off the Windex.

I have not tested it with higher nitro and I do spray 2 thin coats on. If you are unsure, do a test panel and see for yourself. I normally let the final coat of poly dry about 8 hours before exposing it to fuel.

I paint with latex and use the MinWax Polycrylic for a clear coat. I have not had any problems in 1 1/2 years using this method with the fuel damaging the paint.

Try using a winshield washer solvet to thin the paint.

I has the consistency of water, is not a "solvent" type liquid and flashes off much quicker than water.

I did a side by side comparison using water and windshield washer fluid, while both worked well, I actually preferred the results of the water reduced test, the surface of the covering appeared smoother and more consistent than the windshield washer fluid. Perhaps those using latex should try both as well and go with the one that works the best for you.

Be very careful using the windshield washer fluid. MOST of the windshield washer fluids are colored. This WILL tint your paint/clear coat.

Why not mix up some methanol and water? That and some soap is what winshield washer fluid is.