Is Rust-oleum fuel proof?
#1
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From: Arlington,
TX
I painted a plane with rust-oleum, and somewhere I read that Min-wax water based Polycrylic was fuel proof....NOT!!! This was an electric scratch built, turned glow, and now this stuff is slimmy. I repainted it, and I heard rust-oleum was fuel proof too. Do I need to fuel proof it? If so, with what?
#2
Rustoleum primary colors are fuel proof up to about 20% nitro. The primarys are like gloss and flat black, Sunrise Red, Golden(?) yellow, etc. I think these are their "Hardhat" colors. The pastels and metallics are most definitely NOT fuel proof. Clear is also NOT fuelproof.
Like you I also found out that water-based poly is not fuelproof, and unfortunately nothing seems to take it off but sandpaper! Fuel makes it sticky and a little rubbery but it still doesn't come off.
On the other hand, Nelson Hobby's water-based epoxy is very fuel proof when the cross-linker is used. I've spilled 30% Heli fuel on my pattern ship's fuse that's painted with it and left it for a while with no ill effects.
Like you I also found out that water-based poly is not fuelproof, and unfortunately nothing seems to take it off but sandpaper! Fuel makes it sticky and a little rubbery but it still doesn't come off.
On the other hand, Nelson Hobby's water-based epoxy is very fuel proof when the cross-linker is used. I've spilled 30% Heli fuel on my pattern ship's fuse that's painted with it and left it for a while with no ill effects.
#4
I've used red, white, black, yellow with no troubles at all over the long term with 15% and 20%. I DID have a problem with grey in that it was only 2 days dry when I fueled up, found a tank leak. The grey wiped right off. On my corsair I used it to feather into the blue topside. Let it cure for a couple of weeks, no problem. Just had to give it time. I've also used red and blue with 40% on a 1/2a that held up pretty well, but its only had a gallon thru it so far. Might not do so well on the long term. My 1/2a planes dont normally last that long anyway.
Edwin
Edwin
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From: cincinnati, OH,
The problem was the Minwax Polycrylic. That stuff just turns to goo all by itself. It is not a fuel problem. I had it go gooey on a glider. I use Varathane water based poly urethane over all my paint jobs to fuelproof. Rustoleum is fine but it takes a long time to harden an even then is a soft finish.
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From: lockport,NY
Hydroguy,Red Devil Poly paint is fuel proof but hard to find in some areas.Rustoleum clear is fuel proof IF you let it set-up and
the solvents evaporate off.I've used Rustoleum and Red Devil on
nitro boats for years and never had a problem with them lifting
even with 45% nitro in a rigger.You must let them dry beteen coats,it takes a lot of time,but its a nice finish
The Butchman,just my nickels worth!!
the solvents evaporate off.I've used Rustoleum and Red Devil on
nitro boats for years and never had a problem with them lifting
even with 45% nitro in a rigger.You must let them dry beteen coats,it takes a lot of time,but its a nice finish
The Butchman,just my nickels worth!!
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From: Appleton, WI
I was wondering about Krylon too.... as it dries very fast!
I am glad to hear that automotive paint is fuel proof! They have such a great choice of colors. I have five boats to paint this winter and I thought I was goint to break the bank on fuel proof paint fron the hobbie store!
I painted my electric rescue boat with rustoleum last year and always wondered why the nitro diden't ruin it. Now I know! I was planning to sand and repaint it with fuel proof paint! Thanks for the info!
I am glad to hear that automotive paint is fuel proof! They have such a great choice of colors. I have five boats to paint this winter and I thought I was goint to break the bank on fuel proof paint fron the hobbie store!
I painted my electric rescue boat with rustoleum last year and always wondered why the nitro diden't ruin it. Now I know! I was planning to sand and repaint it with fuel proof paint! Thanks for the info!




