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Krylon paint

Old 08-02-2002, 12:03 AM
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Default Krylon paint

Here a lot about using krylon paint.I have used it myself but only on the fuslage.
I would like to hear what sucess people are having with it on fabric...........coverite super shrink Is what I'll be painting . should I prime? Maybe Primex? Don't want to make amess of this project been years building it...........GEEBEE model y 1/4 scale....... using gas not glow.
Thought about Nelson water base but doesn't like to stick to fiberglass that well.............How about some ideas.
Thanks Guys
RILEY
Old 08-02-2002, 02:19 AM
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Default Krylon paint

The Nelson Waterbase sticks fine to Fiberglass as long as you use their primer. The only other primer that works well with the Nelson paints is Rustoleum (AUTOMOTIVE) primer. It must say Automotive on the can or it will not work.

I've done my last few planes with this paint, and I'm starting to like it. There has definately been a learning curve, but I think I'm just about ready to do something nice with it. I love the clean up and not having to wear a respirator.
Old 08-02-2002, 01:56 PM
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Default Krylon paint

Thanks Dave I'll Keep Nelson in mind. Will pass on your suggestion on using rustoleum auto primer.Have a friend who is having problems with Nelson paint sticking on his cowl.
Old 08-02-2002, 03:37 PM
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Default Krylon paint

I don't know about gas, but I have used Krylon on glow planes and after a year or so, it gets very gummy.
Old 08-03-2002, 02:35 AM
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Default Nelson Primer

I've used both the Nelson primer, and the Rustoleum Automotive primer.

The rustoleum is much easier to use, and also quite a bit cheaper. Test it on a trial piece, and I'm sure it will work for you.

I use the Nelson paints in an Automotive HVLP detail gun which works pretty good. The trick is learning how much pressure to use, and how much to thin the paint.

Also, Nelson paints don't cover all that great, and need a few very light coats. If you try to put too much on at one time, it will run. It does dry quickly, so you can put a light coat down about every 10 minutes. AFter the 3rd coat its time to clean the gun.
Old 08-03-2002, 09:25 PM
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Default Nelson paints

I have not had good luck using Rustoleum primer with the Nelson water-based paints. I did some tests with several different primers back last winter because Nelson was out of their white primer and I didn't want to use the gray because I was trying to color match Monokote. Forget using any type of automotive fast dry primer as they have wax in them that helps with dry sanding. The wax will prevent the Nelson water-based paint from sticking because it has no solvents in it to chemically bond with the primer. I also tried Rustoleum primer which seemed to work okay at first but after a couple of weeks I got chipping. The paint doesn't peel like it would with lacquer primers but it does chip easily and I don't like that.

The primer that I ended up using and worked perfectly (believe it or not) is Lusterkote white primer. I know, I know, everybody complains about Lusterkote paint and so do I but the primer works fine. My pattern bird is Nelson over Lusterkote primer, the colors match the Monokote perfectly, and the paint is surviving a full pattern season quite well.
Old 08-04-2002, 02:44 AM
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Default Krylon paint

thanks guys, for all the inflo . Thought I had decided to use Nelson instead of krylon. But sounds like priming still could be a problem With nelson. I tried Krylon today on some test coverite fabric.........Wasn't happy with the results. There is so much fiberglass on this geebee model y I hope to paint it only once.
I had good luck with the old formula century 21 but this new stuff doesn't seem to work as well. What a dilemma! They keep taking all the good pigment and solvents out of the paint..........Maybe need to go back to dope!
Thanks again
RILEY
Old 08-04-2002, 03:01 PM
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Default Krylon paint

Try straight Rustoleum (NOT the water-based) enamel on everything. You can put a couple of coats right on Coverite with no primer. This stuff sticks like crazy to anything as long as it's clean. The only drawback is the slow curing time, you'll have to wait a day or so between coats. You can thin it with odorless mineral spirits. I've also used this stuff in spray cans on planes with great results.
Old 08-05-2002, 07:35 AM
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Default Krylon paint

FWIW I only used Krylon once a long time ago - it got soft and rubbed off.

I've used Rustoleum over Monokote, laminating film, and Ultracote (recently) with excellent results for over twenty years. I wipe the film down with lacquer thinner, try to spray light coats (I use cans straight), give light colored base colors plenty of drying time before I mask for the darker trim colors.

I used to clear coat with their "Clear Sealer" but I can't find it any more. Regular "Clear Enamel" works OK but it yellows a little over white. I have used up to 50% nitro fuel (on racers) with no softening - but it has to be cured thoroughly "for best results".
Old 08-05-2002, 08:00 PM
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Default Krylon paint

A guy at our club painted an Aronica Champ with krylon paint that was clear coated with automotive type one part acrylic. Great results and no gumming.
Old 08-05-2002, 09:12 PM
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Default Krylon.............. not!

Tried it and I recommend against It is NOT fuel proof and when in the hot sun it does get soft. It may be the primer, it may be the clearcoat (Lustercoat clear). I think if you are spending $100-$400 for a plane then splurge a little and buy better paint. I have used the Lustercoat with some success but the spray nozzles leave a lot to be desired. The spray nozzles on Century 21 brand of paint seems to be the best and the paint is about $1.00 cheaper.

.02 worth....
Old 08-05-2002, 11:28 PM
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Default Krylon paint

Toy Maker,

I'm not sure what kind of paint he used but I do know it didn't come out of a spray can. He had a body shop do it. If I see him next weekend I'll try to get more details. I have no experience with this stuff.

Well, I'll get back to ironing my Monokote.

Thanks.

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