emandchris

Hi guys,

I have recently covered an a/c with Worldtex fabric, (trans yellow). In the text provided with the covering, it states, "One coat of clear dope or lacquer over colored Worldtex will prevent the color from getting dirty at the field." I have a couple of questions...

If lacquer or dope is used, can the covering still be touched up with an iron or heat gun? Does the dope or lacquer create a problem? Is the protective component worth the effort?

Is there anything I need to be aware of if I apply letters or #'s over the Worldtex? Should I apply the letters/numbers before the dope etc?

Is there much of a weight penalty with the dope/Lacquer?

Thanks for the help!

Chris

Rodney

Of course anything you add will add weight but; usually not enough to matter on the larger aircraft. And, yes, the overcoat or top coat will make keeping it clean (or cleaning up after it gets dirty) easier. The dirt gets down in the fabric if you do not put a top coat on and is really hard to clean up. I don't think it makes much difference whether you put the trim on after or before the top coats. A water based clear polyethylene works well as a top coat.

emandchris

Thanks for the reply, any comments regarding the shrinkability/charicteristics once the top coat is applied? Is brushing on this top coat the best way to apply?

Regards,

Chris

RHarding

My Feedback: (3)

I just bought a 100" Hanger 9 Cub that had 5 flights on it. The previous owner did not seal the WorldTex covering prior to flying. I would like to thoroughly clean it and put a sealer on it. What is the best cleaning method? Also, what is the best sealing method?

Richard

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Rodney. My personal experience with SolarTex (WorldTex) is that the dirt gets into the weave and is extremely hard to get out unless the weave is sealed first.

If you need to clean the covering, I suggest using a "fingernail" brush and a good cleaner such as Simple Green. You will need to scrub the covering to get the dirt out of the weave. Obviously, you should reshrink the covering afterwards and reapply any decals prior to clear coating.

Instead of dope or lacquer (which is not fuel proof unless it is an ACRYLIC) I suggest a water base polyurethane. Water base poly is definitely good to 10% nitro (all I use) and various reports indicate no problems with 15% nitro. A couple of big pluses to the water base poly are no fumes and it WILL NOT YELLOW WITH AGE.

Your best finish will be from spraying, however, if you want to brush it on I HIGHLY recommend the following. Add 1 1/2 caps of FloTrol per quart and use a FOAM brush. The Flotrol retards the drying a little so the poly has more time to level itself out so the brush strokes don't show. If you have spraying equipment, add the FloTrol as above and my best results have been at 25 psi - 30 psi. If you don't have spraying equipment, MinWax sells water base polyurethane in a spray can. It is the blue label can. You will need to let the poly "cure" for about a week before exposing it to glo fuel for best results. The poly will be dry to the touch in an hour or so and can USUALLY be safely handled at that time.

If for whatever reason you need/want to paint/touch up I can highly recommend latex paint. Use an exterior grade of paint. An EXACT color match can be gotten by providing a sample of the color and the cost is about $10 per quart. The flat latex will need to cure about 7 - 10 days before clear coating - semi gloss and gloss typically require 14 - 21 days to cure. Latex is compatible with just about everything and works fine on SolarTex/WorldTex coverings.

Sledge-RCU

Help!!!!!!

I need 4 Rolls of Worldtex # 116 Dark Green Covering...... To finish a Fokker D-VIII.
If anyone knows the whereabouts of 1 or all 4 Rolls please advise.
Every Hobby shop I have called is out of stock.
Hoping the someone knows where some is hiding.

Tom........... 479-253-7273

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Balsa USA http://www.balsausa.com/ sells SolarTex (WorldTex with a different name ).