I have been reading many threads on RCU about many different covering techniques. One that I have read about, and used quite frequently is the "windex method." I use Ultracote exclusively and have a question about mixing it with MonoKote. It appears from what I have read that you can activate the adhesive on Monokote by spraying it with the Windex and putting it in place. What I have read leads me to believe that no steps beyond using a squeegee to remove the extra Windex and bubbles are needed. I have tried using Ultracote in the same manner, but have found that you really need to apply heat to it to get it to stick. If you just spray the windex on it, once it dries, it just comes right off. So my question is this can I use Ultracote for my base covering and then come back with my trim details using Monokote and just use Windex without heat? (Sorry for the long question, but wanted to make sure I clarified it.)

With Monokote after letting the Windex dry well go around the edges with either a trim iron or apply monokote trim solvent with a Q tip.

Monokote will not work on Ultracote and as you found out the windex will not activate the ultracoat adhesive.

Pete

Thanks Pete, I had planned to use the Q tip with trim solvent and just forgot to add that in my post. I just wanted to make sure it would stick until I got the trim solvent in place. As indicated, I have tried letting ultracote on ultracote dry and all that happened was that it curled up and fell off when it dried.

Check out this post [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/How_to_make_a_3D_American_Flag_on_your_planes/m_603331/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/How_to_make_a_3D_American_Flag_on_your_planes/m_603331/tm.htm[/link]

Termagator seems to put Monokote down over white Ultracote with some success.

Mark

Thanks Mark,
I had found this thread after posting and doing some more searching. I agree, it appears that termagator has success with this method. It just sounds too good to be true that you can just spray windex on the back side of MonoKote and it will stick even without the trim solvent. (No offense meant towards termagator.)

I know a pro builder who also does covering for some people. Ultracote base with monocote trim is what he always uses. Same methods as described above.

I think he uses heat on solid surfaces and trim solvent elsewhere to seal down the edges of the Monokote.

I think the main idea of the Windex is to get the trim completely flat against the underlying material (no bubbles). Once that's done you only have to seal down the edges to make it stick. I've done this with Monokote on Monokote and I use trim solvent to keep the edges down. I could still peel the Monokote up with Windex only.

Mark

I've been doing Termagators method on a CAP-21 I'm building. I used white Monokote as a base and transparent red and blue on a balsa sheeted surface. I found that the windex method works great, until it dries. After that, the edges start coming up, and bubbles form in the transparent colors. I found it impossible to lay the star field down using trim solvent. I was able to overcome this problem by using tranparent blue vinyl (with windex), and being very careful with the transparent red monokote and trim solvent; getting it started in the middle on a shaded area, then working out to the chord and tip following with a squegee.

The windex does indeed serve as a type of solvent with the monokote, as a film of the color will squegee out, but it isn't enough to stick it for good. And, like I mentioned earlier, air bubbles do form in the middle after the windex dries up. I'm not sure how he can do it without bubbles eventually forming.

I dont know guys I have done both over both. with sticking results. And fully ironed them on. Worked for me. The beach stick is a full mix and the redone fuse is a full mix too. Ultra on mono.. and visa versa. And I have others. I still use the windex to lay them down where i want them.. let them dry a little....... them iron them on.

Thanks for the info guys. It looks like I will use a combination of trim solvent and heat once the windex is dry. I was hoping to not have to use the heat especially over open areas like the bays in the wings. I have used the windex method before and still have to put small pin holes in the underlying covering to keep the bubbles away. Up to now, I have been covering by avoiding cover over cover on the open parts. I am in the process of building a Sig Hog Bipe and will be utilizing the processes here when I get to the covering part.