Decals
#1
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From: Abaco, BAHAMAS
I have a vinyl cutter with 3m Scotchcal vinyl. Will this work for decals on model aircraft? Is it fuel proof? What do most builders use?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
That should work OK. Just be sure to seal the edges of the decal to prevent fuel residue from getting underneath it.
FWIW - I print my decals out on water slide paper. I find I get thinner decals by using water slide paper, and since I clear coat my planes afterwards, the edges are sealed.
FWIW - I print my decals out on water slide paper. I find I get thinner decals by using water slide paper, and since I clear coat my planes afterwards, the edges are sealed.
#3
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From: Columbus, IN
Another way to make your own decals !!
Sticker material is available at any office supply store for around $15.00 Simply create your graphic and print. However, the ink will run if not protected and the sticker will appear to have a milky background.
Here's the fix to the running ink and milky background - Simply put clear "box tape" over the sticker before you've cut it out of the sheet it's printed on. The clear box tape protects the ink & also makes the milky background disappear.
Once you've got the box tape affixed. Simply cut out the sticker and affix to your bird.
Sticker material is available at any office supply store for around $15.00 Simply create your graphic and print. However, the ink will run if not protected and the sticker will appear to have a milky background.
Here's the fix to the running ink and milky background - Simply put clear "box tape" over the sticker before you've cut it out of the sheet it's printed on. The clear box tape protects the ink & also makes the milky background disappear.
Once you've got the box tape affixed. Simply cut out the sticker and affix to your bird.
#5

My Feedback: (1)
An alternative to the tape is what I do: Spray the decal material with a clearcoat before cutting out the decal. I use Rustoleum which is fuel proof.
The problem that I haven't been able to overcome is making white decals. My HP printer won't print white. Has anybody figured out how to get around that?
Mike
The problem that I haven't been able to overcome is making white decals. My HP printer won't print white. Has anybody figured out how to get around that?
Mike
#6
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From: Columbus, IN
Hmmm... that's a good question. How would one print "white"??? I suppose you may be able to CAREFULLY lay down some paint, but that'd be a job if even do-able.
#9
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From: Wpg,
MB, CANADA
What you can do is paint your background first( sguare ,circle, whatever shape) with a template . Then put your decal on top of the background. Print your decal image out on a stiff paper, and trim out the whole shape with an x-acto knife.. paint inside the template...Once the decal sits on it you`ll have your background show throw the clear portion of the water transfer DAVE B.
#10

My Feedback: (1)
D Bronk's solution might be the best one. I've seen too many white decals that allow a dark background like Insignia Blue to bleed through the white so that, unltimately, the white isn't pure white.
A guy in my club makes all his "decals" by fashioning them from MonoKote. But he's retired, so he has all sorts of time to do that.
Mike
A guy in my club makes all his "decals" by fashioning them from MonoKote. But he's retired, so he has all sorts of time to do that.
Mike
#11
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From: Wpg,
MB, CANADA
PLEASE remember that the Manufactures of these blank WATERTRANSFER sheets recommend a clear spray of their own prior to install. It`s best to use it after trimming the decals to size so the edges get done at the same time...
.You can also use that template method on quality masking tape, by cutting your shape out and then place it on the plane(wherever).. Make all your "masks" for every white back ground you need ,,1 for each spot...This way you can spray-bomb ,or air brush or ,whichever method you prefer,All at once.I like to get these types of details out of the way and just mask off everything I don`t want paint on and just get it done.I normally use automotive basecoat/clearcoat systems and paint the entire plane .So when I do this, I use my lightest colors first,being white in this case.How I go about this is:
.(1) Find ALL my decal positions, spot spray those areas, only where the white will be.NO masking tape or you`ll have an unwanted edge later(not entire plane) let it FOG OUT...
.(2) Cut the "masks" needed on masking tape,except I use the "inside" of the shape to cover exactly the spot where the water transfer will go so after your main color is applied and your satisfied with the coat(no see throughs) and its dry,(15-20 mins.with the base coat) you can peel your masks off carefully......
.(3) INSTALL your water transfers everywhere they are going to be,and then paper towel them dry.....
.(4) I then give 2 very light mist coats on the watertransfers only with aprox. 15 mins. between dusting coats..It does 2 things(a) provides a barrier that won`t let the colors on the transfer from bleeding into each other;(b) levels up the height difference between colors.Meaning the masked edge................
.(5) clear coat everything till your satisfied.I normally get away with 1 medium wet cross coat( keeps the weight down) and end up with a decal that`s permanently fuel proof, and damage resistant ,with NO EDGE that can be felt..........
Hope this helps you all.Let me know if I wasn`t clear enough ,and I`ll elaborate further.These methods will give profesional results...DAVE B.
.You can also use that template method on quality masking tape, by cutting your shape out and then place it on the plane(wherever).. Make all your "masks" for every white back ground you need ,,1 for each spot...This way you can spray-bomb ,or air brush or ,whichever method you prefer,All at once.I like to get these types of details out of the way and just mask off everything I don`t want paint on and just get it done.I normally use automotive basecoat/clearcoat systems and paint the entire plane .So when I do this, I use my lightest colors first,being white in this case.How I go about this is:
.(1) Find ALL my decal positions, spot spray those areas, only where the white will be.NO masking tape or you`ll have an unwanted edge later(not entire plane) let it FOG OUT...
.(2) Cut the "masks" needed on masking tape,except I use the "inside" of the shape to cover exactly the spot where the water transfer will go so after your main color is applied and your satisfied with the coat(no see throughs) and its dry,(15-20 mins.with the base coat) you can peel your masks off carefully......
.(3) INSTALL your water transfers everywhere they are going to be,and then paper towel them dry.....
.(4) I then give 2 very light mist coats on the watertransfers only with aprox. 15 mins. between dusting coats..It does 2 things(a) provides a barrier that won`t let the colors on the transfer from bleeding into each other;(b) levels up the height difference between colors.Meaning the masked edge................
.(5) clear coat everything till your satisfied.I normally get away with 1 medium wet cross coat( keeps the weight down) and end up with a decal that`s permanently fuel proof, and damage resistant ,with NO EDGE that can be felt..........
Hope this helps you all.Let me know if I wasn`t clear enough ,and I`ll elaborate further.These methods will give profesional results...DAVE B.
#12
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: mirwin
What we need is decal sheets that are white rather than clear. But I've never found any.
Mike
What we need is decal sheets that are white rather than clear. But I've never found any.
Mike
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...artment&ID=106



