Making wood propellers
11-20-2002, 03:28 AM
#52
My Feedback: (10)
Making wood propellers
Joe,
If you look at Henrik's picture at the start of this thread, you see the basic construction is a "rail" (round bar) running left/right in back. A carriage runs on this, to which a second bar, at right angle to the first, is mounted. The end of this second bar is supported by a piece of metal and a bearing is at the bottom to take the weight and thus allows the carriage to run up and down the bar freely. There is another carriage on bar #2 to which a router, the stylus and the counter weight assembly are attached, that as well as being able to run fore/aft on the bar, also allows the router assembly to rotate on it, thus the router/stylus can raise and lower, move fore/aft and also left/right. Thats the 3 axis movement. The important thing is the stylus is the same distance away from bar#2 (pivot point) as the router bit, as when the stylus rises and falls you have to have the router rise/fall the same amount to copy the pattern precisely.
The base is just welded up from steel angle and square tubing, the rails on mine are superior ground 4140 shafting (available at most machine shops) and the rest (bearing blocks and misc) are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum on mine. My base is 1" MDF board, nice and heavy.
You can make the size of the copier whatever you need it to be!
If my explination is not clear, I could draw a skectch and mail it to you.
Regards,
Andrew Coholic
If you look at Henrik's picture at the start of this thread, you see the basic construction is a "rail" (round bar) running left/right in back. A carriage runs on this, to which a second bar, at right angle to the first, is mounted. The end of this second bar is supported by a piece of metal and a bearing is at the bottom to take the weight and thus allows the carriage to run up and down the bar freely. There is another carriage on bar #2 to which a router, the stylus and the counter weight assembly are attached, that as well as being able to run fore/aft on the bar, also allows the router assembly to rotate on it, thus the router/stylus can raise and lower, move fore/aft and also left/right. Thats the 3 axis movement. The important thing is the stylus is the same distance away from bar#2 (pivot point) as the router bit, as when the stylus rises and falls you have to have the router rise/fall the same amount to copy the pattern precisely.
The base is just welded up from steel angle and square tubing, the rails on mine are superior ground 4140 shafting (available at most machine shops) and the rest (bearing blocks and misc) are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum on mine. My base is 1" MDF board, nice and heavy.
You can make the size of the copier whatever you need it to be!
If my explination is not clear, I could draw a skectch and mail it to you.
Regards,
Andrew Coholic
11-20-2002, 03:50 AM
#53
Senior Member
My Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pampa, TX
Posts: 5,133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Linear bearings..
Small world. My company used to make machines that used these bearings..but sold off the design. There used to be tubs of these things laying around, probably got chunked.
LOL I read the rest..we took the hardened shaft material that was left over and made airplane stands..heck, it was only about $20/ft. What a bunch of maroons..coulda had a start to a *****in' prop machine..
LOL I read the rest..we took the hardened shaft material that was left over and made airplane stands..heck, it was only about $20/ft. What a bunch of maroons..coulda had a start to a *****in' prop machine..
11-20-2002, 04:06 AM
#54
My Feedback: (10)
Making wood propellers
Chuckauger,
I am a woodworker, and some of our machines have these linear bearings in them. Thats the only way I knew about them! In my small town, even the local inductrial supply house didnt have a clue as to what I was speaking about. I had to go to the next closest city (1 1/2 hours away) to a bearing dealer. They dont stock them of course, so they are coming from the main warehouse a day away. Its just lucky I found them!
The cost of the metal for the machine only was $36 for me, but the bearings will be close to $150. I guess its still a bargain if I can make my own props for my larger gas engines. I broke 2 big Zigers (26-10, 25-12) last summer and also a 22-8. Here in Canada they cost $45- $50 dollars and $35 or so for the 22" sizes. It wont take long to pay off!
I am most interested, however, in trying to copy the smaller APC props that I use on fun fly planes. The 12.25-3.75 ,11-4 and 10-4 sizes. As you know the heavy APC props take a bit to spool up and down, making minute throttle changes while hovering and such difficult to stay on top of. The wood props are way fatser to accelerate and deaccelerate but I hate having to buy a zinger and rework the blades.
Plus making you own props is just damn neat!
AJC
I am a woodworker, and some of our machines have these linear bearings in them. Thats the only way I knew about them! In my small town, even the local inductrial supply house didnt have a clue as to what I was speaking about. I had to go to the next closest city (1 1/2 hours away) to a bearing dealer. They dont stock them of course, so they are coming from the main warehouse a day away. Its just lucky I found them!
The cost of the metal for the machine only was $36 for me, but the bearings will be close to $150. I guess its still a bargain if I can make my own props for my larger gas engines. I broke 2 big Zigers (26-10, 25-12) last summer and also a 22-8. Here in Canada they cost $45- $50 dollars and $35 or so for the 22" sizes. It wont take long to pay off!
I am most interested, however, in trying to copy the smaller APC props that I use on fun fly planes. The 12.25-3.75 ,11-4 and 10-4 sizes. As you know the heavy APC props take a bit to spool up and down, making minute throttle changes while hovering and such difficult to stay on top of. The wood props are way fatser to accelerate and deaccelerate but I hate having to buy a zinger and rework the blades.
Plus making you own props is just damn neat!
AJC
11-20-2002, 04:46 AM
#59
pics
Thanks the pics will help Ill look at them play around with drawing them on corel and go from there. Im not interested in props but can you imagine the posibilities for making scale items like cockpits etc. hehe
Joe
Joe
11-23-2002, 10:21 PM
#60
My Feedback: (10)
Making wood propellers
Got my 4 linear bearings yeasterday, and replaced the bushings with them. WOW! What a difference. Now its absolutely effortless to move the stylus/router around. I made three props today, the surface finish is also much better since I can go back and forth very quickly smoothing out the bumps.
I also made a jig, to hold two props (one upright, one inverted for the face and back respectively). Now I router the front, flip the pattern and the blank, and then router the back. Takes me about 20 minutes to do one 12 or 13" prop, with minimal hand sanding and balancing afterwards.
To support the prop blades from flexing down as you press on the thm with the stylus, I molded some epoxy/filler blocks which support the blades perfectly. See photos for details...
Hope these pics help someone else make one of their own!
Andrew
I also made a jig, to hold two props (one upright, one inverted for the face and back respectively). Now I router the front, flip the pattern and the blank, and then router the back. Takes me about 20 minutes to do one 12 or 13" prop, with minimal hand sanding and balancing afterwards.
To support the prop blades from flexing down as you press on the thm with the stylus, I molded some epoxy/filler blocks which support the blades perfectly. See photos for details...
Hope these pics help someone else make one of their own!
Andrew
11-23-2002, 10:29 PM
#67
Senior Member
My Feedback: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making wood propellers
Originally posted by ajcoholic
#7...
#7...
What type of wook are you using?
11-23-2002, 10:33 PM
#68
My Feedback: (10)
Making wood propellers
Canadian Hard Maple of course!
I waxed my props, waxed the board then mixed up some of the epoxy/filler and bolted the prop to the boad with the filler in between. When it dried I took it out, sanded it to slightly under the prop outline and then repositioned it to the pattern board and glued it. The prop used as a pattern is just bolted down, and I can remove it for use! The only down side is that for each size prop you need a set of patterns specifically for that prop.
Andrew
I waxed my props, waxed the board then mixed up some of the epoxy/filler and bolted the prop to the boad with the filler in between. When it dried I took it out, sanded it to slightly under the prop outline and then repositioned it to the pattern board and glued it. The prop used as a pattern is just bolted down, and I can remove it for use! The only down side is that for each size prop you need a set of patterns specifically for that prop.
Andrew
11-23-2002, 10:38 PM
#69
Senior Member
My Feedback: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making wood propellers
Originally posted by ajcoholic
Canadian Hard Maple of course!
I waxed my props, waxed the board then mixed up some of the epoxy/filler and bolted the prop to the boad with the filler in between. When it dried I took it out, sanded it to slightly under the prop outline and then repositioned it to the pattern board and glued it. The prop used as a pattern is just bolted down, and I can remove it for use! The only down side is that for each size prop you need a set of patterns specifically for that prop.
Andrew
Canadian Hard Maple of course!
I waxed my props, waxed the board then mixed up some of the epoxy/filler and bolted the prop to the boad with the filler in between. When it dried I took it out, sanded it to slightly under the prop outline and then repositioned it to the pattern board and glued it. The prop used as a pattern is just bolted down, and I can remove it for use! The only down side is that for each size prop you need a set of patterns specifically for that prop.
Andrew
12-11-2002, 01:26 AM
#71
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: ActonOntario, CANADA
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making wood propellers
Hi Guys
Interesting reading guys! My first prop carving machine, is for sale on Ebay! The lastest one is CNC 6 props at a time!
Anyone interested? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1923334176
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
Interesting reading guys! My first prop carving machine, is for sale on Ebay! The lastest one is CNC 6 props at a time!
Anyone interested? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1923334176
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
12-11-2002, 01:45 AM
#73
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: ActonOntario, CANADA
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making wood propellers
Ya but when making props is fun AND its your job...its even better!... happy prop carving!..
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
12-11-2002, 01:50 AM
#74
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: ActonOntario, CANADA
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Making wood propellers
Ya but when making props is fun AND its your job...its even better!... happy prop carving!..
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
Mike Clemmens
MSC Props
http://www.mscprops.com
Team Futaba
12-11-2002, 02:35 AM
#75
My Feedback: (10)
Making wood propellers
Mike,
Hey I just noticed you are in Canada! Acton is near Guelph is it not? I am about 6 hours north of Toronto. I am a self employed woodworker (custom furniture/cabinets/millwork) and I think making props 8 or 10 hours a day wouldnt be much fun for me! I prefer the variety of making something new, week after week
Thats very cool, though, that you are so close and make props. I see you are CNC now. Can you tell a bit about your current set up?
Also, you may want to check out RC Canada (www.rccanada.ca) and let us fellow Canadians know you are making props, especially since quite a few of us are into the larger gasoline engines.
Take care,
Andrew Coholic
Hey I just noticed you are in Canada! Acton is near Guelph is it not? I am about 6 hours north of Toronto. I am a self employed woodworker (custom furniture/cabinets/millwork) and I think making props 8 or 10 hours a day wouldnt be much fun for me! I prefer the variety of making something new, week after week
Thats very cool, though, that you are so close and make props. I see you are CNC now. Can you tell a bit about your current set up?
Also, you may want to check out RC Canada (www.rccanada.ca) and let us fellow Canadians know you are making props, especially since quite a few of us are into the larger gasoline engines.
Take care,
Andrew Coholic