What is the definition of a tack cloth. I was told to wipe down my surfaces with a tack cloth before painting them.

I use paper towels and denatured alcohol. Gets rid of any oils, including fingerprints.

Tack cloth is a sticky cheeses cloth used to clean off dust from surfaces. Got to your hardware store and ask them... they will have it.

THROW IT AWAY!

We get this question all the time about Tack Rags and they cause more problems than they prevent. A "Tack Cloth" is cheese cloth saturated with linseed oil. If not used properly it will cause fish eye in your paint.

It is only needed if the surface has lots of dust or trash on it and can't be blown off or dusted off. To use it properly it should be completely unfolded. Unfold every single fold and lift it by the middle and gently dust the surface. Never apply any pressure to the surface with the tack rag or it will transfer the linseed oil to the surface and now you're in trouble.

You are far better off to use two clean cloths and a can of "Prepsol" paint and surface cleaner. Use one cloth to apply the prepsol and another to remove it. Change cloths frequently to avoid cross contamination.

I doubt seriously if you ever really need to use a tack cloth on a model.

I got one of these at either Lowe's or WalMart. It contains no oil or wax like a regular tack cloth. You just shake the dust out and it is also washable.


3Mâ„¢ Reusable Tack Cloth 9026-RTC, 12.5 in x 14 in

Microfibers capture dust particles, leaving surface clean for a smooth, blemish free finish.

Tack cloths are impregnated with wax so that loose particles will stick to the cloth. They work VERY well as long as you wipe very gently. Don't rub them or you'll get wax on your model and the finish won't stick.

When covering with an iron on, I use my shop vac with a brush and an air compressor to remove dust. No tack cloth because it isn't necessary.

When painting I do the same thing but I give a final wipe with the tack cloth to remove any dust that's left.

Tack cloths traditionally have rosin or varnish as a main component. They are NOT cheesecloth saturated with linseed oil. Cloths saturated with linseed oil and left out can and do spontaneously combust. Under the right conditions they can do it when slightly wet or apparently dry.

Just thought I'd share this in case somebody was tempted to make your own with linseed oil.

Beware the Cheese Cloth of Mass Destruction!

Thanks for the tip, WoodButcher. I didn't know that could happen.

Many a shop has gone up in FLAMES in these parts,due to this(spontanious combustion).To play it safe,and prevent a flaming rag,wiper ,whatever.The rag, will NOT combust,if it is layed out FLAT with no wrinkles, or, folds in it..It needs to be wadded up, or folded(that`s what makes the excessive heat),for it to ignite.I myself, have never heard ,or, seen, of used ,dry rags, doing this.But, what I personally do is DRY them Flat ,outdoors on the grass,and then put them(when dry) in a metal, fire-proof container.A 1-5 gallon steel paint can ,and lid, works great, and costs nothing in most cases.Put your dried ,used rags,in the can ,and, put the lid on it( tightly).Till they can be disposed of.If air can`t get at the Rags, they can`t burn(got to have oxygen).The only time ,I`ve heard or Dry used rags igniting, was from a spark landing on it,but a pile of, new, unused rags, will do that (burn )too.I should also mention, that this condition can happen to the Automotive enthusiast too.GREASY ,and, oily rags, will spontaniously combust as well.So please use the paint can, for those types of rags,as well.Nothing worse,than, seeing a Grown man cry,when everything is lost,(tools models, etc.) Due to a fire, that could have,easily been prevented.Especially, when the fire Marshall tells him, that the cause of the fire, was, from a real hot spot, in the corner"A pile of rags, maybe"?.

Guys no need to be afraid ,Just be aware,is all.

Years ago a friends wood shop went up from oily rags hang drying on hooks and they were fairly "dry".

27 years ago my woodworking shop was in a large warehouse with different businesses, including 2 other woodshops. One of them oiled with Watco oil. The oil dripped through a small hole in the table and onto a stack of paper wipers. Warehouse burned to the ground.

When I was in that building, before the fire, my rags were put into a drum with water until they could be disposed of.

These days the finish I use on my products is a combination of Boiled Linseed and Alkyd Varnish. The paper wipers go outside away from the shop into a wire circle 2' in diameter and 4' high. They get rained and snowed on. There are occasions in the summer when some of theses will spontaneously combust. Sometimes it will be in the layers a couple of years old.

You're right about the oxygen but linseed oil doesn't really "dry". Boiled Linseed "drys" because of the process and added drying agents.

Personally, I only use paper wipers and they go outside immediately. Having gone through a fire probably makes me overly cautious but the results can be devastating.