Any good techniques on how to precisely ream a prop? The pilot tip on my reamer isn't as big as the stock hole in the prop and I'm not sure I'm reaming the true center of the prop.

Bozwth

Bozwth, you can use a drill press and set it up using a machinist centering tool or a drill bit that is the same size as the original hole. You'll need to step-up the drill hole sizes slowly and be careful not to let the drill bit bite too deeply thus causing it to "grab" and rotate. Also, be sure to not make the hole too large.

I also use drill presses. You can go online to find the perfect drill bit size for your engine, then set it up in your drill press. Great way to ream a prop.

Your local hobby shop should sell stepped reamers for just that purpose. If not, Tower does.

Les

You can get stepped drills at Menards. About $14. Use it to start the hole, then complete it with the correct size drill.

I've got the stepped reamers that you get from the hobby shop. Standard and metric. They do not go up to the 10mm size that I need though. The 10mm reamer that I have has a 1/4 inch pilot point on it and then its flat with no bevel or angel to the cutting blade.

Who is Menards and are stepped drills just a set of drill bits that increase in size or is it one bit with steps like a stepped reamer?


Bozwth

Menard's is like Lowes or Home depot.

I have a stepped drill in 1/16" increments, not a reamer which is tapered. Each step is about 1/8" high, so you can only use it to start the proper size hole.

Mark

I needed a 10mm prop reamer also and got one from Tower. Fox makes a 10mm and 12mm reamer. The 10mm worked perfect for my Saito 180.

For all you that use a drill press, please take note from a retired 30 year machinist. #1,Install / slip a drill that just barely fits the prop hole, if the prop falls off the drill, increase the size of the drill. #2, place that drill in chuck, and tighten the chuck securley. #3, bring the table up so prop is fairly close to the drill bit. This is so you won`t run out of the throw needed for the drill to go completely threw the prop.#4, This is the important step. Somehow, I say that somehow, because most of us don`t have a true machinist drill press with all sorts of specialty clamps. Clamp the prop to the table top along with side stop, to stop the prop from spinning if it catches, generaly from hurrying the drilling prosses. Without a machinist table on your drill press you will have to become inventive in clamping the prop without damaging it. #5 Do Not hurry this drilling pocedure, gradually increase the size of the drill till you get the proper size. I personally like to have a snug fit, meaning, I have to thread/screw the prop on, instead of it falling on via it`s own weight. Pick up some junk props and experiment!

Hi, I have no idea why my new post Reaming props, came up 'on your page". Yes, I`m new to R.C.Universe, and any help would be much appreciated, Skip

I got "tired" hand reaming out my props with a Fox stepped reamer so I knocked out the "T" handle and installed the reamer shaft in my variable speed hand drill. Seems to work OK. Prop holes are centered and the balance OK.

Hi Gary, Iv`e heard of this technique, but have never tried it. Do you clamp the prop to the table? I need your advise on Posting a new post about needing to know what is better for hardwood joints using aliphatic, (Elmer`s / Titebond Exterior Water Resistant No Run Gel Formula. "Old yellow" type or newer type? Thank you, Skip

Go to a tool supply house and for about ten bucks you can buy a tapered reamer that goes from 1/8 in to 1/2 in. Harbor freight may carry them. Ream by hand from both sides. Jim

Hi Jim, Iv`e heard they are still making them to small in the length of each step to go completly through the prop`s hub. I can`t say for sure on this , for I haven`t seen them, just heard from the guys at the field. Skip