i have a pica 1\12 scale p-51d and the instructions call for rudder and elevator control surfaces to be hinged with the covering. I thinking of using monocoat or ultracote for covering but dont care too much for this style of hinging.Balsa is to thin for conventional hinge style.Any other ideas? I'm new to this forum and just returning building.

You can actually sew it on in about 3 different places on each side of the control surfaces, just use some thread and a needle and then go over it with the monokote. :idea:

hey now thats a pretty good idea,thanks! How about nylon 6# fishing line. Just a thought.

What works really well on small aircraft and what I always use on these is my special custom made hinges.... 6pk ringers!

You know those ringers that hold your 6pk's of coke, or beer etc... well cut some thin hinges out of that material... and it works fantastic!

great idea! Think I'll get a six pack of cans tomorrow. Thanks!

Hey Bryces,
I'm not so sure you should dismiss the monokote hinges so quickly! I have used monokote hinges many times and have never had a problem. We used to use them on our sailplanes years ago, and it was very commonly seen back then. About six years ago, I built a powered 72" span high performance flying wing, with elevons and "clam shell" speedbrakes. All the control surfaces were hinged with monokote. Unlike the gliders, this thing is real fast, so I was a little concerned at first and kept a close eye on the hinges. Well six years later those hinges are still intact, with no sign of splitting or pulling away. When you think about it, the upper and lower monokote are stuck to each other thru the hinge line gap, glue side to glue side.....stick some monokote scraps together that way, and try to pull them apart!
Besides, you don't have to cut hinge slots, you don't have to buy hinges, it's lighter, it's faster, you get nice free control movement, and there are no gaps along the hinge line. There is a picture of the flying wing in my gallery, so you can see how big the control surfaces are compared to yours. Good luck, however you choose to do it!

Cheers, Nigel

These type of hinges work really well. I use them all the time on very large (1/4 scale type) models with no failures. Check out http://www.flightlines.com/forum/For...ML/000053.html and look at the illustrations by Swooper, very good.

trust me, the wood is to thin to use CA hinges with any accuracy. The directions say to sand a , what 70% angle, then mokote the hinges with one piece on each side of the stabilizer. You have to flex the rudder/elevator to the maximum for each side, the monokote shoudl barely touch in the center of the hinge line to forma pocket for both the stabilizers and the ugh, err rudder/elevator.
I have seen the monokote hinges that was describes earlier, monokote strips, and they dont last as long as the technique that PICA developed/printed.

check this review I did on the Twin Mustang, it used the same hinge technique.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...&highlight=f82]

The type, or method I used for the hinges on the flying wing, are the second type shown in the sketch by swooper...the type that are the full length of the hinge line, one strip along the top, and another along the bottom. Only I cover the bottom of the wing and ailerons first, then I cover the top of the wing with the aileron pinned in place, in the full down position, then flip the aileron all the way over on top of the wing, then add the lower strip. This way the top half of the hinge is part of the covering, instead of a separate strip. It looks better and can't peel off like a strip could...as unlikely as that would be.
IMO, the secret to success is making certain that there is a good bond between the upper and lower strips.
I have not tried the other method shown in the sketch.

Gastronom...what method does Pica use? And how is it different than the two methods shown in the sketch by swooper?

Cheers, Nigel