When to cover
#1
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From: AZ
Hello! I have posted a question in the "warbirds" section, but I thought this question would be more "on topic" here.
I am building the Top Flite P-39, and have read through the instruction manual prior to even buying it, and then again when I got the kit home... Anyway, towards the end, after everything is built, they want me to add all the plastic stuff, such as the wing fillets and the exhaust pipes... Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldnt make it easier to cover without these things, and to add them AFTER covering? Thanks!
-Jim
I am building the Top Flite P-39, and have read through the instruction manual prior to even buying it, and then again when I got the kit home... Anyway, towards the end, after everything is built, they want me to add all the plastic stuff, such as the wing fillets and the exhaust pipes... Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldnt make it easier to cover without these things, and to add them AFTER covering? Thanks!
-Jim
#2
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Sort of depends n the covering material... If doing the typical Monokote, or other iron-on covering, yes, cover before applying the ABS parts. If doing a fibreglass cloth layer... get the gun ports and exhaust stacks installed before glassing, and then you can feather in the edges a little easier. (plus the fiberglassing resin will help hold the ABS parts in place)
The ABS part installation should be done at the stage appropriate to what will give the best result... and somewhat acording to personal preference. If you apply ABS parts then try to Monokote over them... you'll probably melt the ABS.
The ABS part installation should be done at the stage appropriate to what will give the best result... and somewhat acording to personal preference. If you apply ABS parts then try to Monokote over them... you'll probably melt the ABS.
#3
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From: AZ
you know, that is what i was thinking... except for the glasing part. not sure if i am ready to handle glassing yet
and you know, it's a top flite kit so you know they want you to monokote it!
i was thinking that, at least i would rubber glue them all in place to do the balancing... thanks for your input!
-jim
and you know, it's a top flite kit so you know they want you to monokote it!
i was thinking that, at least i would rubber glue them all in place to do the balancing... thanks for your input! -jim
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Maybe I'm wierd... I don't try balancing at all until after its covered.
I've found the covering can change ballance enough to need to dismount the servo rails and move all of the radio gear... (I hate adding ANY lead)
So I don't put in the servo rails or drill the engine bolt holes in the motor mounts (allowing me to move the engine forward and aft within range appropriate for the plane...) untill the kit is covered and the unfinished (for length inside the fuselage) pushrods are in place.
I've found the covering can change ballance enough to need to dismount the servo rails and move all of the radio gear... (I hate adding ANY lead)
So I don't put in the servo rails or drill the engine bolt holes in the motor mounts (allowing me to move the engine forward and aft within range appropriate for the plane...) untill the kit is covered and the unfinished (for length inside the fuselage) pushrods are in place.
#5
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thats why i love reading these things... i learn so much more! (like wood glue resin... up until a few days ago, i thought ca and 30 min epoxy was the end all in building!)
i can understand what you are saying for cg balancing, but what about the lateral balance? wouldnt it be easier to correct with out covering/paint?
and speaking of paint... if i paint on monokote, what happens if i need to tighten it up? i would think that it would crack the paint? thanks for all your help!
-Jim
i can understand what you are saying for cg balancing, but what about the lateral balance? wouldnt it be easier to correct with out covering/paint?
and speaking of paint... if i paint on monokote, what happens if i need to tighten it up? i would think that it would crack the paint? thanks for all your help!
-Jim
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The only paint I've really used much on Monokote is "LusterKote". This paint won't crack when yo reshink... but it will stick to an iron, so you have to use a heat gun.



