Sig 4*60 w/retracts?
11-19-2006 | 09:45 PM
#1
Sig 4*60 w/retracts?
I'm going to start a 4*60 bash build and was wondering if I could add Robart mechanical retracts. Has anyone tried to retro-fit retracts into a plane that does not have that option? I know what I have to do, but wanted some input from you guys.
What did you plan and end up doing from a reinforcement standpoint?
What should I be concerned with or be on the lookout for?
Is this a bad idea? or better yet, is it not a good idea for the 4*60.
What did you plan and end up doing from a reinforcement standpoint?
What should I be concerned with or be on the lookout for?
Is this a bad idea? or better yet, is it not a good idea for the 4*60.
11-19-2006 | 11:58 PM
#2
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RE: Sig 4*60 w/retracts?
There was a 4*60 build thread about a year ago where the builder put retracts into the wings. It worked fine as far as that went - he ended up crashing the plane after only a couple of flights as I recall[
].
Try searching the forums, you'll find the thread. He posted pix and all...
].Try searching the forums, you'll find the thread. He posted pix and all...
11-21-2006 | 02:54 PM
#3
My Feedback: (4)
RE: Sig 4*60 w/retracts?
Kevlar--
I tried to install mechanical retracts in a .60 sized Kaos a number of years ago. I reinforced the rib bays with light ply, built retract mounts from 1/4" ply and had nothing but trouble getting everything to line up and the servo to work. Had clearance problems that forced me to abandon the 1/4' dowel peg to attach wing and had to go to four nylon bolts. I was also converting to tail dragger. Lasted exactly one flight. I eventually took them out and attached a 4*60 fixed gear under the fuse. Probably ended up at least a pound heavier with all the extra wood but flew OK. Still have the plane but have not flown it for years. On hindsight, air retracts would have been better and I am sure there are modelers that have better building skill than me that could have made it work. It was my first and last experience with any kind of retracts. Your post indicated you were planning mechanical retracts. Be aware that where the servo needs to be located is near the leading edge of the wing where the dowels go. You need to make a servo mounting unit and glue it in at the proper level. Also, you will need to make sure the wheels retract into an open area between the ribs. As I recall, the 4* uses two main spars, that should not interfere, but the smaller sub spars are not very far behind the leading edge and may interfere. Then you have to construct wheel wells or else you will have a large open bay under your wing. My experiment added a whole lot of extra work and pretty much screwed up a good plane. Just my $.02. Good luck if you decide to go ahead with your project and let us know how it turns out.
Greg
I tried to install mechanical retracts in a .60 sized Kaos a number of years ago. I reinforced the rib bays with light ply, built retract mounts from 1/4" ply and had nothing but trouble getting everything to line up and the servo to work. Had clearance problems that forced me to abandon the 1/4' dowel peg to attach wing and had to go to four nylon bolts. I was also converting to tail dragger. Lasted exactly one flight. I eventually took them out and attached a 4*60 fixed gear under the fuse. Probably ended up at least a pound heavier with all the extra wood but flew OK. Still have the plane but have not flown it for years. On hindsight, air retracts would have been better and I am sure there are modelers that have better building skill than me that could have made it work. It was my first and last experience with any kind of retracts. Your post indicated you were planning mechanical retracts. Be aware that where the servo needs to be located is near the leading edge of the wing where the dowels go. You need to make a servo mounting unit and glue it in at the proper level. Also, you will need to make sure the wheels retract into an open area between the ribs. As I recall, the 4* uses two main spars, that should not interfere, but the smaller sub spars are not very far behind the leading edge and may interfere. Then you have to construct wheel wells or else you will have a large open bay under your wing. My experiment added a whole lot of extra work and pretty much screwed up a good plane. Just my $.02. Good luck if you decide to go ahead with your project and let us know how it turns out.
Greg
