I just picked up a new field box to build for my evening entertainment .The instructions call for using thick 5-15 min C/A but I only have medium 5-15 min C/A and don't have enough time to drive back to the hobby shop before they close.

I was just wondering if this will be sufficient for the job? I don't want to build it and then have it start to fall apart when its loaded up with gear but this is my window if opportunity.

Thanks

I doubt if there is much difference between med and thick CA strength wise, the thicker it is the bigger the gap it will fill.
I doubt if the field box is "precision" cut or sanded.
If you really want it to stay together use any variety of epoxy.

let me be the first to say that building one of these field boxes with CA is virtually impossible!!!! I strongly suggest that you don't attempt to do it. First off the length of the joint and the stress of trying to hold them at 90 degree angles and such only causes the CA to crack, or the crappy wood around it to crack. I gave up on following the garbage directions hangar9 includes with their field box.

What I did, and suggest you think about is the following. I used Gorilla Glue! First I pre-fit the entire box together, and held it all in place with my hands. This gave me the understanding of how it all went together.

Then just break out the Gorilla Glue and glue the whole box up. Use some phonebooks or other heavy weights to press the pieces together while the glue dries. Make sure you have the bottom on correctly!.

The drawer on the other hand can be built with CA. It's the box that just won't go.

Another option and this is what I did... I used Gorilla Glue, and a brad gun. I glued up the pieces, and drove a brad in carfullly. If I didn't line it up exactly and it poked through... I left it alone, and used a dremel the next day to cut off the metal that stuck out.

Super tough and solid.... used some wood filler to patch up the spots I needed to, and then you can prime and paint.

Using the CA is going to be a nightmare... good luck!

RPA

I 100% echo what RealPilotAce said. I've discovered and used the Gorilla glue on many applications and have never regretted it.

That makes sense about the ca cracking while trying to hold it at a perfect 90 degree angle. Just got off the phone and the local home depot is still open so I'm off to buy some of that gorilla glue and get at it.

Thanks. I knew I'd get good , quick advice on RCU.

Cool.

GORILLA GLUE "The toughest glue on planet earth!"

Thanks again.

One more comment... DO NOT OVERDOO THE GLUE! This type of glue along with other's that are similar will EX--P-A-N--DD ALOT! Just run a small thin bead. Wipe off any excess right away and not with your fingers. This stuff is tough and not water soluable... actually it's the water in the air that makes this stuff activate.

Just do not use too much, and wipe off the excess. Don't run a bead of it on inside joints, this will make a mess of your box since this stuff expands. And let it sit overnight, next day will be rock solid.

Well, now that you have the wood one made, break it up for kindelng & get [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_167247/anchors_167247/mpage_1/key_billy%252Chell/anchor/tm.htm#167247]the field box from hell[/link]

Gorilla Glue

[:'(]

I used Titebond on mine, it works great and has held up for several years.

I ended up waiting until the next day. The more I read about that gorilla glue the less I wanted to use it. So I returned it and picked up some 12 minute epoxy instead.

I think that "THE FIELD BOX FROM HELL" looks like a little overkill! But thanks for the suggestion. Nice drink , errrrr beer holder though!

Wood good , Plastic BAD [:'(].

Good old fashioned aliphatic resin (yellow wood glue) is all you need.

I used Titebond when I built my Goldberg SuperTote. I had not problems with the assembly and it is still holding up very well after a number of years of use and abuse.

Just use a good white glue and be done with it. It's not such a big deal. I can not believe all the e-mails on this, I could have built the box by now in the time it took all the e-mails to go back and forth. LOL

I can't believe you actually bothered to waste the time and the gas and bring the gorilla glue back to the store. You can use it in your arsenal of different types of glue for various projects. LOL

Good Luck and don't glue your fingers together. LOL

I LOVE Gorilla Glue! It has a hallowed place in my glue arsenal. If its a joint that I don't want to ever come apart, and there's room to use masking tape to hold the joint together, and I don't mind having to remove some excess glue that foams out of the joint, then GG is the choice. For nice finished joints that don't have to be fuel proof and can be easily sanded, good old fashioned aliphatic resin (Elmers Carpenters Glue) is my choice. Since the field box might be subjected to fuel spills, I'd go with GG rather than white or yellow glue.

A tip for strong CA joints. Before gluing the part together, use thin CA along each edge to be joined. This hardens the wood, as well as soaks into the wood. When you glue the joint with medium or thick CA, it will bond better to the CA substrate you've created. The resultant joint will be much stronger and resistant to cracking. Also, making sure you have a good tight fit before gluing will help reduce the chances of the joint cracking. The glue that fills the gap is not very structural, so the smaller the gap, the better the joint.

Brad

So Electriceddie cant believe all the "e-mails" on this but still had to give his opinion? Thanks anyway.

It was actually nice to read all of the replies from everyone regarding some of the choices I could use. Especially since I'm a beginner and haven't built a field box before.

And don't assume that I wasted time or gas returning the glue. I rode my bike, didn't waste any gas, and enjoyed every minute of it!! And the trip to get glue wasn't a waste because the cold beer store is right next door! [sm=punching.gif]