I am curious about the Krylon paints. Is there any reason why I have to go over the color with a clear (satin or gloss)? Its a gas engine install and according to the manufacturer the colors as well as the clears are all acrylic and will be fuel proof. If I like the finish is there any reason to add the clear?

If you are staying strictly with gas, Krylon colors will work without the benefit of clear coating.
What can happen with uncoated color is a slight leaching of the color pigment from the surface if raw gas is left for more than a few seconds. That really is not a problem 99.9% of the time though.
Also, don't use straight denatured alcohol as a cleaner to remove oil residue because it will attack the surface of the paint in a hurry.

It will not be glow fuel proof. If you are like me and likely to spill glow fuel all over everything, including a gas powered plane, then it may be a good idea to use a glow fuel proof paint anyway.

What would be a good clear coat to make it fuel proof?

Thanks for the info. Now my biggest problem is getting an even coat on without leaving dry spots. I am going over and over different area to get a good finish but the overspray creates other dry looking spots. Its not so bad on the fuse as its not a wide surface but the wing has a 16 inch cord and is difficult to cover.

glowplug50,

Is that paint drying flat or are you having the same issues as I here in SA with humidity?
I cannot get my Dupi-Color paint to dry in the semi-gloss color in which it’s made. Are you
shooting paint in the garage? ~ Wade

Yes I am painting in the garage here in Houston. Humidity! Whats that? Yea, lots of humidity. Could be the problem. I could'nt get the clear to work at all unless i just hosed the area, but even then I kept getting a whitesh haze to it. I am painting solid yellow. I do have better luck in the afternoon though.

Sounds like you have a problem with fast drying paint and humidity. The paint has a slight refridgeation effect as it cools and small droplets of water condense causing the paint to have a white haze. To get rid of it you must paint in a cooler and or dryer area, or add slower drying thinner to the paint. Since you are using spray cans you can only paint in a cooler dryer area. If in a garage that join's air conditioned space, consider putting a fan by an open door and paint after this cools off the space.

Thats a good call Sport_Pilot. I think I'm going to invest in a cheap ac window unit just for the garage.
At the rate the weather is going, I won't get any good paint down until I get the garage cooled. ~ Wade

All sounds good. I have a 48 inch fan going but it just seems to give me more problems. If I had painted this thing 4 weeks ago when we had such good weather I probably would not be experiencing so much trouble. I have never gotten along with paints to well to begin with.

In the mean time......

I took another shot at it after sanding the top surface of the wing down with some 320. I was able to get a darn near perfect cote down with the exception of a few dry looking places.. I don't know if I should sand the offending areas or just try shooting them again.

While I was at the hardware store I picked up a tapered rubber stopper (shaped like a cork) about 1/2 inch at one end and maybe 3/4 at the other. My ignition wires came with 2 wires coming from the module and one of the leads has a 4 pin plug on it that needs to be on the engine size of the fire wall. I drilled an 1/8 hole through the stopper and put a mandrel for my Dremel through it and chucked it up in my Dremel. I held it up against a flat file, fairly fine tooth, and turned the stopper down to a straight barrel with about a 1/8 inch shoulder on one end. I already had a hole in the fire wall that would just allow the 4 pin connector through so I turned the stopper down till it was very tight going in and then drilled the fire wall with a bigger drill bit to make it a good fit. Its easier to control the size of the bit then a piece of rubber turning 30000 rpm. I drilled the center of the stopper out just a little more to give room for the 2 leads and then split it length wise to allow putting the wires through the stopper. It fits nice and snuggly and I will probably coat it with a fine film of silicone sealant when I install it permentaly. It looks pretty good and should do a good jub of sealing the hole as well as protecting the ignition wires on both sides of the firewall from any kind of rubbing. It took a lot less time to do then it took me to write this.

i have used krylon......both primer and color.....then spray on a clear coat of laquer to make it fuel proof......works for me. paint must be dry before clear coat. no problems.

I've used clear Lusterkote over Krylon paints. I let the Krylon cure, sometimes for a week, then spray a couple of very light coats of lusterkote clear. Once the light coats have dried I can clear as usual.

That Krylon clear is horrible. I build plastic models besides balsa ones and have used that clear before. Yuk. Goes on terrible and dries terrible with that milky look to it.

Do you think lusterkote will go over the automotive paint duplicolor? I have several models that need painting and duplicolor and krylon are very easy to work with just need to make them fuel proof.

I just did my Dads Kadet Senior cowl with Krylon gloss black and shot Lusterkote clear on it 24 hours later with no problem.

Do a test with the Duplicolor on a small part. Just make sure it cures first before the Lusterkote is applied.