LOOKING FOR A CLEAR SPRAY TO SEAL AN ULTRA COAT PAINT THAT WILL NOT CUASE A CHEMICAL REACTION.
THANKS!

I was just thinking of asking the same question.....i'll be watching this thread and see what develops...in particular i'm looking for a satin or flat, glow fuel proof clear to go over testors model master paints. ...that won't yellow in time...

Well you have to test any paint which is why it's always a good idea to finish a scrap of wood the same way as you finish your model. It gives you something to test on.

As far as I'm concerned, the very best crystal clear coat is two-part automotive urethane. It's not cheap and it may react. But if you spray on light mist coats and let them dry you can put almost anything over anything without a bad reaction.

The best and ONLY one I have used that DOES NOT yellow at all, is the two part automotive clear. If you have a good automotive paint store near you they can mix it up and put it in a spray can so you do not need the spray guns.

You need to go to a real paint store and not Pepboy, Kragen, Chief to get this stuff.

Dru.

I just clear coated a plane with the Nelson Hobby's stuff. I don't know about it yellowing, but it dosn't stick worth a crap! It's like a thin coating of soft rubber on my plane. In fact it's so soft, that blue painters masking tape (the low stick kind) will lift it right off. I used the correct amount of thinner (water) and cross linker too. Maybe after a few weeks of cure time it will get better?
I really don't have any suggestions for you on what to use for a clear coat, but if you use the Nelson products, be sure to do a sample piece first. Good luck! green river

green river rc, like you I have had bad luck with the Nelson paints and will never spend any of my hobby dollars for them again.

I agree with several of the other posts about the best non yellowing clear is automotive urethane. It is definitely worth the extra expense. You might also try some of the water based urethanes like Min Wax on a test piece to see if they yellow.

Vince

Dru (or anyone),

Can you give me more information on this automotive clear? I think you did via PM once and I have lost it. sorry.

I'm planning on clear coating over testor's enamels. I am looking for a good flat finish clear that is glow fuel proof.

Thanks all!!

The automotive clears are catalyzed; quite expensive; and quite toxic to use. For research, Ditzler DAU75, is what I have used.

I like clear waterbased polyeurathane. Water clear, fuelproof up to at least 15%, and water cleanup. CAUTION; it does take practice to apply properly, without puddling.

Les

Contact Tony Stillman at Radio South.
He sells small quantities of PPG paints matched to monokote and clear. Great stuff!

There are many good choices in the automotive paint supply house, mosts clears will be urethanes with a catalyst, I was able to use for many years an acrylic enamel paint called Acme, this was the best paint and one of the least expensives, until the supplier I bought from changed brands (probably got a better deal from the manufacturer), ACME paints has its own urethane clear, which uses the same catalyst that is used with the paint, thus making it even more afordable, if you find this brand, use it, rivals PPG, Dupont, Imron and many others, at least for our intended use, the clear was the easiest to apply and you couldn't get it to run even if you tried, it was water clear, I had airplanes that were around 8 years old and the paint and finish looked as if it had been done recently.

ACME name brand!! gooood paint!!!

Don't use Chevron's Perfect Paint clear satin.
Took about a month to yellow.
Are we allowed to say pissed off here?

sure, I won't tell!!!!!! SHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!

Guys, I have built furniture and cabinets for years and the only product I have found that is reasonable is clear lacquer. Two or three light coats allowed to dry between coats and you should have a very long lasting finish. I have sprayed it over all kinds of wood and other paints with great success.

If allowed to dry and cure properly, it should not be effected by fuel at all.

Jim,
Can you share a brand and technique? this sounds promising, thanks!

Go to Sherwin Williams and buy their clear lacquer. I have used tons of it for finishing furniture (wood) and it always works great.
Or you might try visiting a cabinet shop and buy a gallon from them as it's hard to get in gallon or smaller quantities.

I used a compressed air spray gun to apply it and never had any problems. I also have a Campbell Hausfield Airless sprayer. Don't know why its called airless cause it uses air...... Guess it's because it has it's own turbine type air compressor and doesn't use a separate air supply.
If you use a compressed air spray gun be ready to invest some money in a large compressor as those guns eat air like it's free.

After spraying lacquer on anything be sure to clean the gun real well or you won't spray any more. Lacquer thinner is the only thing that works for cleaning.

Another good point is to go and buy a filter respirator and wear it!

Lacquer really stinks up the place so do your spraying outside the house. Oh, and no open flames around this stuff.

I use the PPG Concept line of paint and clear.
The clear that I use is: PPG Concept DCU2002, the hardner is: DCX61, the reducer will be dictated by the temperature of your location. Get ready to get up off of some of that folding green tho!
PPG has a less expensive choice but I can't remember what the numbers are. You will also need an organic vapor type cartridge mask and be sure and keep the doors open and a fan running.

I am with Turbines, I have used the PPG line of paints. Yes they do drain the wallet but they work so much better then the rattle cans!!!!

I have 2 quart cans of PPG DCU clear with the hardener. They were not cheap. But two coats and a little wax they shine like a new car. They are totally fuel PROOF!!!!!!

From what I have sprayed of the years, all of the lacquers are fuel resistant to 10% to 15%. Much more they started to get tacky. I was able to get good results with the old Pactra paints in the can. I am not sure if they make the urathane clear any more.


Dru.

I am going to jump in here... Is the clear lacquer you guys are talking about here gas proof? I see that people state that it is glow proof but gas proof? Also, is this the same clear lacquer that Proflooney glasses his planes with? I am going to glass with the clear lacquer, paint with latex, and clear over this with the lacquer again. Will this work for me? Thank you one and all.

I have found that clear lacquer & nitrate dope are about the same & are not glow fuel proof. They both work well with gasoline base fuels. The first two can be final coated with butyrate dope . Have never found it to yellow. A air less spray gun is truly airless in that no air comes out with the paint , the air runs a pump that forces the paint through a hose to the gun . Pretty much used for commercial jobs , for our limited uses it is too much trouble & expense. I like my stinky dope jobs that look like the real thing. MAX H.