Ok guys I have glassed my P 51 with .75 cloth and used Minwax Polycrylic all went well. I have read so much about painting and it has all started to run together. This might make it easier for me to grasp if I just state what I would like to do and get in put on that from the guys who know as this is my first glass and paint job. I plan to prime the surface for imperfections, make smooth then prime coat for painting lightly sand this then prepare to paint. I do not have the fancy tools and would like to roll the paint with foam rollers. I would like to use flat latex outdoor house paint for the job. Once completely dry I am in no hurry here I would like to apply the stick on insignia to the painted surface. Once this is complete and I am sure the surface is very dry I would like to brush a thin layer of Minwax polycrylic to protect the surface. Ok this is what I would like to do but I am not sure if this will work as I said I have read alot on this but I am just not soaking it in that way, Will this work ? is anything wrong with this plan ? This is not for competition results just want a glassed bird with a painted scheme to fly the crap out of. If it matters I will be using a gasser for power. Thanks for any opinions/ideas. Kevin.

If you already have an air compressor, you can get a small HVLP detail gun from Harbor right now for $20!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...324&pricetype=

I used it for painting my modified 4 * 40 (automotive poly paints). You will get a far better finish than with rollers and brush.
I used latex for my TF Spitfire. I really like the way it came out. I did it before I had the fore-mentioned gun and did it entirely with a Testors Aztec airbrush (about $100) and clear-coated it with rattle can satin waterbase Varithane Diamond polyurethane. I see Harbor has some airbrushes but I cannot comment on their quality.

Scott

What you have in mind will work.

I do have a couple of suggestions that should provide a better finish.

1. I realize you are trying to do this as inexpensively as possible, however, I suggest at least an airbrush and a small compressor for it. Home Depot has 1 1/2 gallon compressors for about $100. If you do decide to go this route, you will get your best performance at 25 - 30 psi.

2. If you still want to brush the paint on, use foam brushes and add 1 1/2 caps of "Flotrol" per quart of latex paint. The Flotrol retards the drying time of the latex so as to allow the paint to "level out" any brush marks.

3. Use 3M brand BLUE masking tape. The one you want is the "60 Day Safe Release". It will have a paper appearance and on the side of the wrapper is an adhesive index. You want the "2 dot" adhesive. This adheres reasonably well, yet doesn't pull up fresh underlying paint.

4. Paint you bird with its "base color" first (primary color of the plane), then add your other colors (white latex will cover a dark latex in usually 2 coats ).

5. After you mask, go over the edges of the tape with a THIN coat of your base color to prevent bleed under.

6. Read this article by Roy Vallencourt on painting with latex (Vallencourt is a Top Gun winner ). http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tips I will use them, also can the minwax be used over the finished paint and insignias? Thanks again, Kevin.

A word of caution. In the tests I conducted water based paints or water based polyurethanes were not glow fuel proof.

Ed S

Minwax Polycrylic can be used over the latex with no problems.

Polycrylic is FUEL RESISTANT with the following caveats:

1. Let the poly dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel residue (wipe raw fuel off right away )

2. Do not let the residue remain on the finish for longer than 4 hours. After 4 hours the finish will soften.

Thanks for the info guys, Kevin.

Fuel resistant is not FUEL PROOF.

Why take a chance on a paint job. Use a FUEL PROOF finish.

Ed S

The TF P-51 shown here was painted with cheap spraycans. That was powered with a US 41 gasser.

The Spitfire was sprayed with acrylic house paint ex small testpots using a cheap Badger unit. Even the roundels were painted with that stuff - using 3M blue plastic tape as masking. Clear polyurethane was brushed over all that to provide a fuel resistant finish. The Spitfire is powered with an old OS 1.08 and has been flying for around 3 years and still holding up pretty well.

Alan W

Tell the whole story, was that water based polyurethane or oil based. All of the oil based polyurethanes I have used were fuel proof. Unfortunately oil based domestic paint products are gradually being phased out.


Ed S

Err......yes. That was oil based polyurethane, and I`m told the trick to longevity is to let the acrylic dry well and truly, like a week or so before applying it......

Alan W

Well here is some of my progress, fuse is painted with Aluminum enamel from HD decals applied. Wings are still drying so could not make the picture. This was my first FG and paint project and other than alittle trouble with the tail it went fairly well. Thanks for all the ideas and help you guys passed on it really helps us first timers, I hope to be able to do that for someone else someday. Kevin.

Hey if anyone is interested I just finished a video that is about 2.5-3 hours long on painting with latex... I also glass with the polyacrlic ..

Ty

Hi Guys. I too want to take my modeling to the next level. I can build a kit and monokote it OK. But I want to try glassing and painting and building with foam and all that. I want to be able to make those glassy smooth sport planes I see pictures of. No one in my RC club builds anymore.

I've been reading Harry Higley's books. I'm building a Tower Fun 51 to try some new techniques. I’m going to sheet the wing and fiberglass it. Then try painting it. I have some questions on paint products I hope you gentlemen can answer. I want to save time by starting with products that work.

1. Where is a good source of fiberglass? $6 a square yard seems a bit high to me.
2. What do people use for a sealer. I purchased Sigs finishing resin. I’m going to try that. Is there a minwax product that works?
3. What is a good filler. Higley’s No Secrets recommends Dupont 30S. I don’t think they sell it here in California anymore. I can also try dope and baby powder. Anyway, I’d prefer a water based latex filler if there is one. What do you guys use? I’d like to brush on the filler.
4. For a primer I bought Nelson’s two part primer.
5. For paint I bought a pint of Nelson polyurethane Deep Red. I’d like to use a water based product.
6. I haven’t decided what to use yet for a clear gloss coat. I want to try making decals using ether an ink jet or color laser printer. The gloss can’t affect the decals.

When may garage warms up to 70 I’m going to start testing. I bought the Harbor Freight HPLV sprayer. I’ll try it with my cheap compressor first.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Making some more progress just need to coverite the tail surfaces flat Black and its on to final ass. Thanks to all who gave me guidance. Kevin.