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Old 01-08-2008 | 09:00 PM
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Default monokote overe monokote

can someone tell me how to put monokote over monokote using windex ,,,i have a LT40 the wings are all white and done last year
but hard to tell when i`m upside down when flying.
so i made a nice designe with black mono and tryed to heat it on ,,well not working well at all...
i got it down but bubbles and next day edegs came up all over ,so i put 1/4 in. pin strip ..
i`m not happy with it at all,wife says i have .o.c.d.

so i see some where to use windex then trim with trim solvent.
but it did not tell me how....any help would be awesome...thanks
Old 01-08-2008 | 09:22 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

Here's an awesome thread. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_603331/anchors_603331/mpage_1/key_flag/anchor/tm.htm#603331]3D American Flag[/link]

It uses Monocote over Ultracote, but you can use the same method for mono over mono.
Old 01-09-2008 | 12:09 AM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

Just use water.. distilled is best.. let you slide the piece into position.. and you don't have the "soap" to deal with...Iron down before it completely dries up starting in the middle working your way out. I cut 2x2" checks on mine (4 star .40). 3 flights and no peeling yet. Just iron down well on the edges...

Mike
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Old 01-09-2008 | 01:18 AM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

Does anyone here put the trim underneath the outer skin? That's how it recommends doing trim in the "Tom's Techniques" book. I tried it tonight; it looks really nice and totally locks the trim piece in, but it's a lot of work.
Old 01-09-2008 | 06:29 AM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

nice looking job kit builder,thanks for the info...
i`m building a 4*60 now with alot of mods...
Old 01-15-2008 | 07:15 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

Didn't Monokote make a solvent for applying Monokote over Monokote without heat?
Old 01-15-2008 | 07:33 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

They do make trim solvent. It is a little tricky to work with. To much solvent and the color (which is in the glue) will be gone. Not enough and you wont get a good a stick. Also there is no repositioning like with the windex method. I do keep trim solvent around. I like to use it to clean a plane after covering. The dark colors always bleed onto the light colors. The trim solvent will clean it right off.
I also found it cleans the adhesive left behind from ARF stickers.

David
Old 01-15-2008 | 07:48 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote


ORIGINAL: daveopam

They do make trim solvent. It is a little tricky to work with. To much solvent and the color (which is in the glue) will be gone. Not enough and you wont get a good a stick. Also there is no repositioning like with the windex method. I do keep trim solvent around. I like to use it to clean a plane after covering. The dark colors always bleed onto the light colors. The trim solvent will clean it right off.
I also found it cleans the adhesive left behind from ARF stickers.

David
Maybe it's just me, but I've found this stuff (Trim Solvent) very difficult to work with. Like Dave described, too much and the color is gone. Learned that one the hard way [:@]. Windex should work just fine

-MA
Old 01-15-2008 | 08:35 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

There is another product similar to Monocote's trim solvent called NO HEAT...works much better than their product, yes put on fairly lightly, but had real good success with it, Tower use to sell it...
Old 01-16-2008 | 10:58 AM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

I would like to add. I have had some good results with trim solvent. But I found it takes two sets of hands on large areas or long runs and I think there are easier ways.

David
Old 01-16-2008 | 12:11 PM
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Default RE: monokote overe monokote

Windex & Soap have worked for me in the past. With both MK & UC..

The problems pop up when the graphic / detail is large, and trying to lay flat on a compound curve. Unless you're shringking it, you're gonna get wrinkles.

The Windex method, or soapy water allows a film in between the covering (wing) and the graphic to be applied. The graphic essencially floats on this thin layer of liquid. You then squeeze out as much of the liquid as possible. Basically squeegee-ing it out with a credit card (those 'free ones' you get in the mail..) or somethign similar. This also removes any trapped air between the coverign layers. Paper towel helps mop up any excess liquid as it's squeezed out..

Let dry. This is important, like, 24hrs drying or more... You want to ensure that all the liquid has evaporated. The soap helps it stick a bit, so I assume, like what you used to do to get grips on your bicycle handlebars..

Once applied & dry, you then run your iron around the edge of the graphis, to activate the glue, and ensure it is really stuck down. Don't worry about the middle parts. With MK, you can 'paint' the edges with the trim solvent.. You can also paint the edges with thin CA or clear nail polish to really seal the edges..

One key thing here is cleanliness. Clean the area with Windex, then with dish soap ( a great degreaser!) then with Methyl Hydrate (alcohol) and clean your hands too!!

The other option is to visit your local 'custom sign shop' and either:
1) Get them to 'cut out' your graphic on vinyl. The stuff they use for stickers, signs, and the graphics / decals on cars
2) Ask them for their off-cuts. Their "throw aways". (Tell them you need it for your wife's grade 3 class art project... you shodu get a bag full of bits & peices.. scraps..)
3) buy a nice sized peice, and cut your own.

The nice thing about the vinyl, it that it sticks, and is flexible to go around curves & bumps & such..

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