Is thin CA Necessary?
#1
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From: Lone Rock, WI
I am building a kit and in my opinion by far the worst aspect of kit building is working with Thin CA. I can't recall the exact manufacturer of the stuff I am using but it is the kind where the opening is pre-made so you can't control the amount that flows out when it is tipped. Every time something didn't quite turn out was due to either too much CA or it setting before I could re-adjust the balsa and I didn't get the fit I wanted.
So, my question is, can I avoid thin CA altogether and just use Medium CA and Elmers Wood Glue? I realize this will increase the time I need to wait before working with freshly glued pieces, but is there any other reasons why it would be necessary to use thin CA? I am sick of it getting on my fingers and the head rushes too.
So, my question is, can I avoid thin CA altogether and just use Medium CA and Elmers Wood Glue? I realize this will increase the time I need to wait before working with freshly glued pieces, but is there any other reasons why it would be necessary to use thin CA? I am sick of it getting on my fingers and the head rushes too.
#3
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From: Columbia City,
IN
If you're having trouble controlling the amount, head to the LHS and pick up some CA applicator tips. Makes accurate drop by drop application a cinch.
#4
ORIGINAL: Showtime100
I am building a kit and in my opinion by far the worst aspect of kit building is working with Thin CA. I can't recall the exact manufacturer of the stuff I am using but it is the kind where the opening is pre-made so you can't control the amount that flows out when it is tipped. Every time something didn't quite turn out was due to either too much CA or it setting before I could re-adjust the balsa and I didn't get the fit I wanted.
So, my question is, can I avoid thin CA altogether and just use Medium CA and Elmers Wood Glue? I realize this will increase the time I need to wait before working with freshly glued pieces, but is there any other reasons why it would be necessary to use thin CA? I am sick of it getting on my fingers and the head rushes too.
I am building a kit and in my opinion by far the worst aspect of kit building is working with Thin CA. I can't recall the exact manufacturer of the stuff I am using but it is the kind where the opening is pre-made so you can't control the amount that flows out when it is tipped. Every time something didn't quite turn out was due to either too much CA or it setting before I could re-adjust the balsa and I didn't get the fit I wanted.
So, my question is, can I avoid thin CA altogether and just use Medium CA and Elmers Wood Glue? I realize this will increase the time I need to wait before working with freshly glued pieces, but is there any other reasons why it would be necessary to use thin CA? I am sick of it getting on my fingers and the head rushes too.
BTW, Great Planes makes a hinge that is installed with CA or epoxy (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXK114&P=K). I sometimes use thin CA to harden an area of balsa but even that can (and probably should) be avoided.
Regards
#7
What do you think us old farts did before CA? There was a time you know.
That was back before cell phones and a pay phone on every corner. And getting a glass of water in a restaurant as soon as you were seated, without asking for it. Also back when we had Little Black Sambo's Pancake House's and Drive Inn Movies.
That was back before cell phones and a pay phone on every corner. And getting a glass of water in a restaurant as soon as you were seated, without asking for it. Also back when we had Little Black Sambo's Pancake House's and Drive Inn Movies.
#8
I also use regular wood glue and I am very glad I don't have to use CA any more.
Don - you mentioned Epoxy is safe. I did research on it some time ago, and while Epoxy doesn't smell nearly as strongly as CA, it doesn't mean that it is safe. You may want to look into it. I don't have specific information to send you, but Google it and you will find a lot of information on it.
Don - you mentioned Epoxy is safe. I did research on it some time ago, and while Epoxy doesn't smell nearly as strongly as CA, it doesn't mean that it is safe. You may want to look into it. I don't have specific information to send you, but Google it and you will find a lot of information on it.
#10
ORIGINAL: ppkk
I also use regular wood glue and I am very glad I don't have to use CA any more.
Don - you mentioned Epoxy is safe. I did research on it some time ago, and while Epoxy doesn't smell nearly as strongly as CA, it doesn't mean that it is safe. You may want to look into it. I don't have specific information to send you, but Google it and you will find a lot of information on it.
I also use regular wood glue and I am very glad I don't have to use CA any more.
Don - you mentioned Epoxy is safe. I did research on it some time ago, and while Epoxy doesn't smell nearly as strongly as CA, it doesn't mean that it is safe. You may want to look into it. I don't have specific information to send you, but Google it and you will find a lot of information on it.
#11
In addition to using thin CA on CA hinges, I also use it to harden threads in wood after tapping them, and sometimes for strengthening a screw hole where a control horn is going. Other than that, I avoid the stuff.
I prefer building with wood glue, but I will pull out the medium CA if I run out of hands or clamps to hold things together.
I prefer building with wood glue, but I will pull out the medium CA if I run out of hands or clamps to hold things together.
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From: Berthoud,
CO
Thin CA is not 'necessary' but you already have 2 reasons to have it around (hinges and screwholes). It's also useful to harden balsa (after poking a few pinholes) tack gluing, for securing thread windings used on some vintage kits and can be useful during the application of balsa sheeting to wing or fuselage framesand for lining ABS cowls with light fiberglass cloth. With a good applicator tip it can be controlled. I don't use much of it but always have it available. Of course if you're allergic to it, use something else.
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From: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
Another great thing about wood glue is that it isnt as brittle as CA. I built my kadet using only wood glue and epoxy. I planted it hard enough to break the firewall, and that was all the damage done. On my sig somethin extra (bought off a fellow member) it was built using CA. I planted it (about as hard as the kadet) and there were alot of glue joints that broke. I actually ended up regluing most of the ribs and other formers and stuff. Use the wood glue, and you will never go back.
#16
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From: Lone Rock, WI
I have been using Elmers Wood glue a lot. The cool things about it is that it sands nicely, I can use my fingers to work it into joints, and it's cheap and readily available.
Skeeter, stay off the CA.
I see you're still at it... I remember when you first started posting on RCU and had the best stories written up about your initial flying experience.
Skeeter, stay off the CA.

I see you're still at it... I remember when you first started posting on RCU and had the best stories written up about your initial flying experience.






