needle adjustment extension
#1
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needle adjustment extension
What are some good ideas to extend the adjustment from a saito 100 HS needle to the outside of a cowl + 3.5 inches...can't seem to find a allen wrench long enough....any help is much appreciated. Thanks
Mr.Sand
Mr.Sand
#7
RE: needle adjustment extension
A lot of people use a hex driver through a hole in the cowl to adjust the needle valve. You need to make some kind of a guide to direct the driver to a socket head bolt fixed in the needle valve. I just went through this on my Siemens Schuckert D.III and here is the pix.
The little brass tube is epoxied to the battery case front, in this particular situation.
The little brass tube is epoxied to the battery case front, in this particular situation.
#8
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RE: needle adjustment extension
Kimhoff's note on vibration is very valid. If you go down that path find a way of soft anchoring the extension on the outside of the cowl to dampen vibrations.
I now file a slot in the end of the needle for adjusting by screwdriver and I slip a piece of silicone tubing over the needle to guide the screwdriver onto the slot
I now file a slot in the end of the needle for adjusting by screwdriver and I slip a piece of silicone tubing over the needle to guide the screwdriver onto the slot
#9
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RE: needle adjustment extension
Hi!
Using an extension on the high speed needle is not a good thing to do! The needle valve seat will sooner or later be destroyed this way from vibrations. The longer the extension is the more rattling of the needle, the sooner you will have problems with your engine settings!
A much better way is to do is to move the needle itself to a place you can reach it but were it is not seen (see pictures of my GEE BEE R-2 below )...or to solder an Allen bolt head to the needle which you can reach from outside with an Allen head screw driver.
Using an extension on the high speed needle is not a good thing to do! The needle valve seat will sooner or later be destroyed this way from vibrations. The longer the extension is the more rattling of the needle, the sooner you will have problems with your engine settings!
A much better way is to do is to move the needle itself to a place you can reach it but were it is not seen (see pictures of my GEE BEE R-2 below )...or to solder an Allen bolt head to the needle which you can reach from outside with an Allen head screw driver.
#10
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RE: needle adjustment extension
How about a small length of wire, with a longer section of inner Sullivan golden rod attached to the wire? You can grip it to adjust, and the weight is negligible.
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RE: needle adjustment extension
I drill out the needle valve to 3mm (carefully) then use the grub screw and some red threadlock to attach a 3mm cap screw close up to the needle valve screw head.
I then put a bit of silicone fuel tube over the cap screw head and lead that through the cowl (or close inside). You now have a guide for the hex driver down the centre of the pipe!
HTH
Richard
I then put a bit of silicone fuel tube over the cap screw head and lead that through the cowl (or close inside). You now have a guide for the hex driver down the centre of the pipe!
HTH
Richard
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RE: needle adjustment extension
lilhachet has the right idea. I've used this method for many-many years. The nicest part about using flexable throttle cable is most times you do not need to take the needle valve out in order to remove the cowling.
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RE: needle adjustment extension
I have used the flexible throttle cable for years, some are 3 plus inches long on round cowl engines, without having throttle seat problems. I always slip a length of silicon or tygon fuel tubing over the throttle cable from the needle valve to just outside the cowl. I use a small wheel collar or a servo arm quick linc connector on the external end as a handle. The fuel tubing dampens the vibration and prevents the cable from damaging the cowl.