Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
06-24-2010 | 01:51 PM
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From: Advance,
NC
Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
I have been using Rust-oleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy on landing gear and struts on planes using 15% glow fuel. It seems to be COMPLETELY FUEL PROOF, at least in white color. Have been very pleased. On one plane the exhaust dumps right onto the gear, and the paint just laugh at it! It is also available in "stainless steel" and black colors. Don't know what the stainless looks like, but it is a silver of some description. Of less interest, it is available in other appliance colors like beige. Check the web site.
This paint dries very hard and very glossy, just like the old K&B epoxy paints. It is as good as an automotive finish. Follow the directions carefully. If not recoated within 1/2 hour, you must wait two weeks. I tried it after one week, and it wrinkled. It must cure the two weeks as the can says.
Randy L.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_97...#ixzz0rnWjjacY
This paint dries very hard and very glossy, just like the old K&B epoxy paints. It is as good as an automotive finish. Follow the directions carefully. If not recoated within 1/2 hour, you must wait two weeks. I tried it after one week, and it wrinkled. It must cure the two weeks as the can says.
Randy L.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_97...#ixzz0rnWjjacY
06-24-2010 | 03:15 PM
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From: Advance,
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RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
Gary,
It is flexible enough that there is no problem with gear flex. On one plane, I had to "rebend" the gear after a hard landing, and no paint problem.
combattpigg,
Perhaps this is picking nits. I see no need to do this test. I have several planes, each of which get fuel on the paint every flight, and in two years I have seen no degredation of the painted surface. Many "model" paints may not pass that test anyway, but are good enough for their intended purpose. If it works, it works.
Randy L.
It is flexible enough that there is no problem with gear flex. On one plane, I had to "rebend" the gear after a hard landing, and no paint problem.
combattpigg,
Perhaps this is picking nits. I see no need to do this test. I have several planes, each of which get fuel on the paint every flight, and in two years I have seen no degredation of the painted surface. Many "model" paints may not pass that test anyway, but are good enough for their intended purpose. If it works, it works.
Randy L.
06-24-2010 | 04:41 PM
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From: Cape L\'\'\'\'\'\'\'\'Agulhas, SOUTH AFRICA
RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
You can always crash it before it starts yellowing.....
ORIGINAL: GarySS
Interesting! Does it stand up to the flexing of a landing gear? Price? Yellowing over time?
Interesting! Does it stand up to the flexing of a landing gear? Price? Yellowing over time?
06-24-2010 | 09:54 PM
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RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
GarySS,
Sorry, neglected to answer all your questions: No, I have seen no yellowing on any of my parts, some 2 years old. It is a great match for any of the white film coverings. Price: about $3/can at Lowes, Home Depot, and I believe Wal-Mart. Compared to most paints marketed directly to modelers, this rounds off to free!
Regards,
Randy L.
Sorry, neglected to answer all your questions: No, I have seen no yellowing on any of my parts, some 2 years old. It is a great match for any of the white film coverings. Price: about $3/can at Lowes, Home Depot, and I believe Wal-Mart. Compared to most paints marketed directly to modelers, this rounds off to free!
Regards,
Randy L.
06-24-2010 | 10:46 PM
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From: Nutley,
NJ
RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
ORIGINAL: littlera
I have been using Rust-oleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy on landing gear and struts on planes using 15% glow fuel. It seems to be COMPLETELY FUEL PROOF, at least in white color. Have been very pleased. On one plane the exhaust dumps right onto the gear, and the paint just laugh at it! It is also available in ''stainless steel'' and black colors. Don't know what the stainless looks like, but it is a silver of some description. Of less interest, it is available in other appliance colors like beige. Check the web site.
This paint dries very hard and very glossy, just like the old K&B epoxy paints. It is as good as an automotive finish. Follow the directions carefully. If not recoated within 1/2 hour, you must wait two weeks. I tried it after one week, and it wrinkled. It must cure the two weeks as the can says.
Randy L.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_97...#ixzz0rnWjjacY
I have been using Rust-oleum Specialty Appliance Epoxy on landing gear and struts on planes using 15% glow fuel. It seems to be COMPLETELY FUEL PROOF, at least in white color. Have been very pleased. On one plane the exhaust dumps right onto the gear, and the paint just laugh at it! It is also available in ''stainless steel'' and black colors. Don't know what the stainless looks like, but it is a silver of some description. Of less interest, it is available in other appliance colors like beige. Check the web site.
This paint dries very hard and very glossy, just like the old K&B epoxy paints. It is as good as an automotive finish. Follow the directions carefully. If not recoated within 1/2 hour, you must wait two weeks. I tried it after one week, and it wrinkled. It must cure the two weeks as the can says.
Randy L.
Read more: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_97...#ixzz0rnWjjacY
06-24-2010 | 11:07 PM
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From: Advance,
NC
RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
ro347,
The priming thing is one of the cool features of this paint. The directions on the can tell you specifically NOT to use any type of primer. It has clung tenaciously to alumimum and fiberglass in my applications to date. Also, the stuff covers very well in the 3 or 4 light coats you can apply in the "magic" 30 minute window before you must STOP painting. After the 30 minutes, you MUST wait 2 weeks (no cheating!!!! - you will pay for it with a finish wrinkled like a prune.)
I have not applied over any dark colors, but would expect it to work pretty well. It seems to be a dense, highly pigmented paint. If the first (30 minute) coats don't do it, there is no choice but to wait the 2 weeks and then recoat with whatever is needed (during another 30 minute timeframe!)
Regards,
Randy L.
The priming thing is one of the cool features of this paint. The directions on the can tell you specifically NOT to use any type of primer. It has clung tenaciously to alumimum and fiberglass in my applications to date. Also, the stuff covers very well in the 3 or 4 light coats you can apply in the "magic" 30 minute window before you must STOP painting. After the 30 minutes, you MUST wait 2 weeks (no cheating!!!! - you will pay for it with a finish wrinkled like a prune.)
I have not applied over any dark colors, but would expect it to work pretty well. It seems to be a dense, highly pigmented paint. If the first (30 minute) coats don't do it, there is no choice but to wait the 2 weeks and then recoat with whatever is needed (during another 30 minute timeframe!)
Regards,
Randy L.
06-24-2010 | 11:08 PM
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From: Advance,
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RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
Forgot your other question. No clear coat is required or (my opinion) desirable. This stuff shines like a new Mercedes without any clear.
Randy L.
Randy L.
06-25-2010 | 06:45 AM
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From: Advance,
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RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
Check this link:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=101
Black and "stainless steel" (a silver of some description) will be the most interesting.
Randy L.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=101
Black and "stainless steel" (a silver of some description) will be the most interesting.
Randy L.
06-25-2010 | 10:58 AM
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From: Advance,
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RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
Turn the can upside down and spray about 3 - 5 seconds to clear when you are through painting. I rarely have clog problems as long as I remember to do this. This applies to any can of spray paint.
Randy L.
Randy L.
06-30-2010 | 08:45 AM
#14
RE: Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy
I guess they don't make many refrigerators and washing machines in Cub Yellow or Missile Red. Great tip though. Might be an easy way to fuel proof engine compartments.
As far as resistance is concerned, I think how it performs on a plane is the best test. That's why Aerogloss used to brag about being "Hot Fuel Proof". It's what comes right out of the muffler directly on to the plane at high temperature that is the worst problem. At least that was my experience with ordinary Rustoleum, which was very good at sitting around with a puddle of 15% nitro on it, but no good at all downstream from my exhaust. Makes sense, given the well-known effects of heat on chemical reactions.
Jim
As far as resistance is concerned, I think how it performs on a plane is the best test. That's why Aerogloss used to brag about being "Hot Fuel Proof". It's what comes right out of the muffler directly on to the plane at high temperature that is the worst problem. At least that was my experience with ordinary Rustoleum, which was very good at sitting around with a puddle of 15% nitro on it, but no good at all downstream from my exhaust. Makes sense, given the well-known effects of heat on chemical reactions.
Jim
