TiteBond
 

I'm going to be repairing an old trainer, and I was wanting to use some TiteBond Wood Glue, to conserve my CA & Epoxy. Where should I Not use TiteBond?

Main damage is sides, bottom plate, and firewall.

And being I have 2 Trainers, 3 Mid Wings I was thinking of converting the wrecked trainer to a LowWing. The wing has 0 dihedral, it was taken out by the previous owner. It's a solid wing, But I am thinking also about cutting it apart and making it a two piece. (But May Not)It's about 63" long now. If I drop the wing would it's place need to be moved forward or backwards any or just drop itstraight tothe bottom?

Thanks

RE: TiteBond
 

<font size="3">Don't use TiteBond on the Fire Wall or to Join wing halves! </font><font size="2">Use EPOXY for that.</font>

RE: TiteBond
 

Got Ya!!! I kind of figured that, Glad you said so. Thanks

RE: TiteBond
 

Tite bond will work fine on the wing joints; the glue is stronger than the wood so any glue as strong or stronger than the wood will work fine. It will also work well on the firewall if (a big IF) you fuel proof the joint so that no fuel can get to the glue joint.

RE: TiteBond
 

Fuel Proof the FIRE WALL no matter which glue you use!

RE: TiteBond
 

What do you use to fuel proof with? I'm still cutting wood back to plywood so I have something to build off of. It will be a few days before I get through cutting. I'm cutting out busted balsa back to ply frame, then build off that to patch the holes. The firewall on this one is ok. The other New ARF Trainer will be electric so no fuel.

And whats this glue every where that looks like Dark Honey? The previous owner used it to do what looked like field repair, it sure is mean to get off. lol

RE: TiteBond
 

If you haven't bought the titebond glue yet, I believe the titebond 2 is the better of the different types they sell. Dries a lil quicker, sands good..

RE: TiteBond
 

The Honey colored glue is probably Epoxy if it's around the Fire Wall. That's what I use to fuel proof that whole area with. Usually Z-Poxy. Just a light coat to cover the whole engine compartment. I try not to use any Epoxy around the tail area. It can add weight faster than you might think. This is just My opinion and I'm sure there are many other points of view. All I can say is "it works for Me".[8D]

RE: TiteBond
 

Also use epoxy for landing gear mounts/blocks in addition to the previously mentioned areas. Titebond is great for eveything else. Been using it for 40 years; never had a joint fail. Way cheaper than CA, too.

Fuel proof with epoxy thinned w/ alcohol (use the 90% stuff) takes a bit of stirring to get it all mixed in. Thinning also extends the cure time. Clean brush w/ acetone, and you can use it again if you don't let the epoxy set up.

RE: TiteBond
 

Doog-meister hit the nail on the head with his advise. I also forgot to mention that in my case, CA fumes burn my eyes and nose and give me flue like symptomes. The fumes linger around the shop in the winter. You really need to vent your work area when you use CA. [:@]

RE: TiteBond
 

Adhesives Used for Model Building Oh, and Titebond is an Aliphatic Resin ...

RE: TiteBond
 

Thanks very much every one. Great advice.

I think CA can be used for pining stuff in place Tack-it.
Use TiteBond for anything not needing quick setting like CA.
And Expoy around engine area.

I'm still torn between useing my epoxy to join this new trainers wing halves, or use my TiteBond.
My tite bond "Red Lable Original". I have 5 oz left and would like to use it and save my epoxy. I know it's stong, wood will break before it turns loose.</p>

RE: TiteBond
 

Wing halves? 30-minute epoxy.

RE: TiteBond
 

I used my tite bond on the Tail Parts.But I'll use the epoxy. :) On the Wing Halves.

Ok. Technique for installing this power 32 outrunner? Some onetold meI could use 4 long bolts, with long spacer in between two washers?

RE: TiteBond
 

Bolts with spacers may work, but the most common thing I have seen is to build a balsa wood box on the existing motor mounts to carry the engine. Do a search for glow to electric conversions motor mount and see what you come up with.

RE: TiteBond
 

I'm afraid that the bolts with spacers will leave you with a very wobbly motor, it will shift all over under torque loads and may even do a pretty violent dance at high throttle.

RE: TiteBond
 

No, not long bolts there.

Just a plywood firewall between both cheeks, and having the existing engine mount as a central reinforcement.

RE: TiteBond
 

Thanks Lnewqban That is the perfect mount. Thanks I was looking for something just that simple. And I already have the same size ply wood that I had ordred. Awesome. Now to get me a prop adapter and prop can anyone recomend the correct size prop? For a power 32? I'll be useing a 60A esc latter when I can afford one. I already know that I need a 5mm prop adapter.

RE: TiteBond
 

Nice solution, I like it.
Now to say the unthinkable, I have stopped using epoxy for firewall and engine bearers. I use a good quality water proof PVA
and find that used on clean hardwood the wood breaks before the glue joint. So why use epoxy? Never use for laminating
fuselage doublers etc. PVA is air curing and your lamination may never cure. I use epoxy for this.
John

RE: TiteBond
 

A good reason not to use Titebond in certain applications like a firewall or landing gear blocking is that those two areas are the most often that suffer the need for repairs someday. A firewall glued in place with epoxy can fairly simply be removed by heating the epoxy to release it.

Otherwise, I use Titebond for most of a build.

RE: TiteBond
 

gotta smile - last post is 1 year to the day from previous post :D

RE: TiteBond
 

eh?

RE: TiteBond
 

Here a question regarding Titebond II and epoxy. I am building the wing of a F4U Corsair, a 1/8 Pica Kit. The main spars are made of 1/8 ply, and the two halves are sandwiched in the middle (back and front, see pic) between two 1/8'' ply braces that extend about 14'' from the middle. The spar/braces are 2'' from top to bottom. My first instinct would be to use Titebond. The surfaces are flat, they can be securely clamped, and I can easily clean up the many slots before the glue sets. Strengthwise, long grain against long grain is perfect for Titebond. The wood would fail long before the glue. However,
I also know the mantra "thou shall not laminate with Titebond". So what would you guys do? I do not want to end up with a warped spar, or worse. Time is not a big issue, I can let it sit for a few days...

RE: TiteBond
 

"thou shall not laminate with Titebond". "

Where did that come from. I see no rational.

Les

RE: TiteBond
 

Well, it was mentioned in an earlier post with regard to fuse doublers. I think the idea is that water based glues applied over large surfaces of balsa sheet will cause it to warp because of water seeping into the grain. Here though I am talking about plywood and in a narrow and long joint. I think I will take a salomonic approach: epoxy on the back and titebond on the front...