Diesel Racing

Hey people,
I'm ready to sell all my stuff or set it all on fire, which ever comes first! I'm so over this stuff! I installed my sirio this morning with high hopes of a successful and tireless engine! Its been nothing but a problem! I ran the first tank of fuel ( trinity 20% monster horsepower break-in) with no throttle all idle that's it! It ran very well! I let it cool down for 15 mins. I noticed alot of fuel spurting out of the exhaust tip, which seems to me alot different than my 2.5. It seemed the engine was not burning off the fuel? The second tank and the last tank I ran has been nothing but a headache! The engine wouldn't even turn over! I took the glow plug out and cycled the starter to see if it may be flooded. It was flooded big time! A ton of fuel came out of the engine! I drained the fuel, literally drained the fuel out and started over! Now it runs, but won't stay running! I installed the engine by the book! I installed new fuel line, filter, the whole nine yards! I have brand new fuel and glow plugs as well! I am clueless with engine tuning and knowledge of these nitro engines! Any help would be ummmmmmmmmm helpful? (lol) I can still manage to smile after all this stuff!

rcmtdriver2000

First of all just to let you know I don't own a sirio but I hear they run great! Did you read the instructions as far as breaking in the engine? The glow plug is usually to blame as far as the engine not doing the right thing during break-in stage of running a nitro engine. The best thing to do is start from factory settings and try again. The tuning is something you'll need to get down in order to enjoy the truck. If not it's gonna be a 400.00 dollar paper weight. Please don't give up on it,but be sure to vent here on the web to keep from hitting it with a hammer. If you can get past the second tank and into the leaning process of the break-in you'll be fine. It has to do with getting the first heat cycle through the engine.

homelessduck101

My Feedback: (-1)

If its flooding so easy try leaning it out. I had that problem with mine and thats all it took.
Also, is the glow plug even getting hot?
-Dallas

jefx

I have that engine and it is very hard to start during break-in. Here's a few tips:
1.Set your needles to break-in specs on the instructions.
1b.If break-in specs are still way too rich, and it's flooding out, then lean it a little. Just remember that it needs to be rich for proper break-in, so don't lean it too much, only enough to get it started.
2.Use a glow plug igniter if you have one, it will allow the ez start to give more juice to the starter motor, and also heat your plug up better for an easier start.
3.If it still won't turn over, try loosening the plug a little to let out some compression while starting, tighten it back up after it's running.
4.Heat the engine up with a blow dryer or something before you start it. This will help to loosen it up, and make it easier to start.

Try these things and let us know how it goes. It is an incredibly tight engine, and the break-in can be rough, but it gets better and better afterwards.

hondascott

If he read the instructions on breakin he wouldn't have let it cool 15 mins after the first tank. The manual clearly says 5 mins between tanks. Also, the baseline settings are just that, base line estimates. I live at 90 feet above sea level so I learned real fast that you are trying to achieve a condition, not a hard count of turns out from seated.

hondascott

Well said jefx

Diesel Racing

I apprciate it Jefx and RC Driver,
I never knew the headaches involved in this hobby! WOW!, but alot is my inexperience as well! It takes time and money! (lol) what about fuel filters? do they hinder the fuel flow? is it better to run straight line? I have a fuel filter. the glow ignitor sounds good i almost bought me one at my LHS, but i am tired of spending coin! I really don't think waiting 15 mins will hurt anything! they just want you to wait at least 5. to cool! but i don't know!

hondascott

Waiting 15 won't hurt but does answer the question of wether or not the manual was read.

jefx

A fuel filter won't hinder fuel flow unless it's clogged, which is a good thing. It's a good investment. I'm real careful about my fuel but i've still pulled hair and grit from my fuel filter.
I use a glow igniter all the time, I don't have to, it's just easier to start that way, plus it's a good tool for testing plugs.
About cooling, your right, wait at least 5 minutes. It's all about heat cycling, just make sure it's cool before you start it again.
This is a great engine, and it gets faster and faster the older it gets. I've got 1&1/2 gallons through mine and it's still not all the way broke in yet. The piston still gets stuck at TDC.
My buddy rebuilt his 2.5 and has ran 1/2 gallon through it since then. There is definatly no pinch left at TDC with his, just a "pop" sound, but it runs great.

Diesel Racing

look honda, im not gonna debate the fact if i read the manual! why would i spend 180 bucks on a engine and not take the time to go through the steps. ok jefx i will get a glow ignitor thanks for the responses!

Diesel Racing

hey jefx
things are looking up! ( knock on wood ) its idling as i speak! Ummmm a couple of questions again.... Im running it without an air filter, do you think the stock traxxas air filter is restricting the air intake? do you use a different air filter? Im not worried about the filter right now, cause its running in clean air, not on the track! Ummm also there seems to be fuel around the cooling fins ( in between?) whats up with that, likes its leaking at the base between the cooling head and the top of the engine? should I rely on the factory head shim, or should i replace that? What tool do you use to measure the gap of the slider carb rod in the intake? I would like to measure the gap , but the MANUAL i've read doesn't have the measurement? Oh and another thing, I think the reason the big pipe was collecting fuel was because the tube was upright instead of facing down. Duh? Im sucha rookie! Anyways I haven't bought a glow igniter , but thats a good idea as well. I just thought of something, maybe it's oil instead of fuel spitting out, cause im using the trinity break in fuel which has more oil for lubrication. Anyways I appreciate all your help with my new engine and thanks for the positive feedback! let me know what you think or if you have any more ideas? thanks again!

jefx

Running it without an air filter is never a good idea, even if it's sitting still there is dust in the air that you can't even see which is getting sucked into the engine.
I personaly think that the 2.5 filter is too restrivtive, though others will disagree with me. However it does do a fine job of filtering the air. I run a motor saver filter.
Fuel in the cooling fins, hmmm.... maybe your plug isn't tight? You can crank it down pretty hard as long as the engine is cool. If you crank too hard while the engine is hot, you may strip the threads. Also, if you've removed the plug several times the plug gasket may be getting worn out. Ideally you should only use it once, but no one really does that. I would trust the head shim, you're supposed to replace them anytime you remove the head, so taking off the head for no reason is not a great idea. Maybe you should crank down the head bolts (when it's cool) to make sure they're tight.
As far as measuring the slide opening, that's hard to do. Just eyeball it with a ruler. There is no set place it should be, it will vary from engine to engine. Usually about 1mm will get you in the ball park.
Yes, it's most likely oil spitting out the exhaust. If your engine was so rich that raw fuel was spitting out, then it probably wouldn't be running. Break-in fuel is just that, break-in fuel. You won't get much performance from it because of the very high oil content.

Diesel Racing

Hey jefx,
Yeah i was thinking the same thing about the air filter so i went and put it on and it still ran so the filter is fine for the motor. That's exactly what it was, the plug wasnt tight enough, i cleaned up the fuel and tightened it down, problem solved! My LHS said the same thing! It definitley was oil and not fuel coming out of the exhaust, i put my finger in it and rubbed it and it was all oil, you can smell it and tell as well! Things are really looking up, i ran 3 tanks in it yesterday and it was a little hard to start, but once it warmed up it was great! I haven't even driven it yet, just letting it sit in idle to make sure i don't get on it too quick, I really don't wanna mess it up too quick, i think thats what i did with my 2.5. But when i throttle the carb with the servo manually, it wants to cut out, you know too much air in carb kinda thing, what can i do with that? Low speed adjustments? anyways thanks again and i'll keep you posted! Im happy once again! (lol) D Racing

jefx

I broke my engine in with the 2.5 instructions. The Sirio instructions are pretty vague and say something like; be easy on the engine for the first 5 tanks. They didn't really tell me what to do, and I liked the 2.5 break-in procedures so I stuck with them. It seemed to work well, after 1&1/2 gallons my engine still has a tight pinch at TDC.
If it's cutting out with throttle, and it's dripping out the exhaust, then it's probably cutting out due to flooding. When you go to drive it around, you may have to lean it up 1/8-1/4 turn on the HSN just to keep it running.

Diesel Racing

yeah i know what your saying about the instructions being too vague, but i do however like the after break in settings they give you. they are really definitive, trx 2.5 never said 7 out on high end, 2.5 out on low end and all that! thats pretty cool. yeah your right due to high oil mixture in break in fuel, its not getting full juice so to speak! well im gonna go finish the break in, see ya once again, i'll keep ya posted! i think we've had the most productive communication and helpful knowledge on this forum yet, not arguing about what t means in tmaxx and all that crap! Later

Diesel Racing

jefx, i just learned something when the engine is flooded with fuel or blue block ( after run engine oil) the ez start wont turn over the engine. (lol) anyways one more thing i was thinking after the engine is broken in, are you still supposed to wait 5 mins in between tanks to let the engine cool before you begin running it? just a precautionary measure! (lol) im ultra cautious considering i have about 1500 bucks in this thing! later! Diesel Racing

rcmtdriver2000

Yeah let it cool between runs, it helps the piston and sleeve go through it's heat cycle. Bring the piston to bottom dead center as it cools. This allows the sleeve to compress back to size after it it expands from the heat it goes through.

homelessduck101

My Feedback: (-1)

If all else fails, Turn to ur gold ol` fasion HS.


-Dallas

jefx

Well after all the break-in procedures are finished, you don't really need to let it cool between runs. As long as it's not overheating, you could even refuel it while it's running and basically have an unlimited run time. Trinity/Sirio says that the engine is not fully broke-in until after 1-1/2 gallons have been run through (I believe them). So during this time you should try to be nice to your engine. It would probably appreciate regular cool-downs.
As far as a definitive 7 turns HSN and 2.5 turns LSN, it still depends on your ambient temperature, elevation, and humidity. I believe that those exact needle settings are only if you live in New Jersey when it's 32-40 degrees out (seriously). Your needle settings will vary, and you will have to tune according to your conditions, but those settings should get you up and running.
rcmtdriver is correct, you should do those things he said during the break-in.
This has been a fun thread, I hope I've been helpful.

Diesel Racing

yeah, i live about 4 hrs from jersey, but your right about tuning to area. yes, it has been a great thread, i might take a break today cause its gonna be about 40 deg outside, not too fun being in a coat and all! but i have made alot of progress and learned alot about my engine i appreciate all your help as well as the others! I'll keep you posted! later D Racing