Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

So I set out to build an economical (or as economical as racers get) Maxx. I wanted to make it the best truck I could on a limited budget. I think I shaved 1-1.5 lbs from this guy. I would estimate the weight around 7.5-8lbs now. It takes a LOT to get the truck under 7lbs in full race trim, so I figure 7.5-8lbs is a good weight for a budget.

$300 2.5 Tmaxx- Almost new @ ebay- <1 qt through; 7075 braces, 7.2V battery, charger, fuel, tools and more
$30- ebay Associated shock set
$4- 40wt shock oil
$27- ebay NIP Powertune cooling head (2.5R)
$10- ebay NIP Pullstart conversion
$5- ebay NIP Forward Only Conversion
$30- ebay NIP Maxx 6V niMH pack and peak charger
$30- HPI dirt bonez

Total cost - $436; Guys if I was to buy all of this new, I would expect the costs to be at least 33% more at LEAST, putting the total around $650 or so. Ebay has so many Maxx auctions going, it's easy to save some $$$.

I still need an FM radio and a good steering servo. I will shop around and get those for $100 or so. So, my total cost will be $536, which is under my goal of $550.00.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Now, here is what I have done-

Picked up a JT Racing 7075 chassis
Removed front/rear bumpers and guards
Reinstalled the bulkhead braces with shorter hardware
Shaved the skidplates- the rear even with the bulkheads and the front has a little kick up
Removed all of the reverse components and installed a FOC
Mounted steering servo straight to chassis
Removed Rx battery box
Placed 6V flatpack in plate of receiver box
Modified radio box and installed between steering/throttle servos
Removed the EZ start and installed pullstart- Note- I left the glow start portion of EZ start hooked up
Rebuilt Associated Maxx shocks w/ 40 wt. Installed in outer mounts
Mounted dirt bonez on stock wheels- hey I wanted discs, but the wheels are strong and light so why?
Installed the Powertune head

I tried an Ofna 9.5 Pro Tank AND an XTM Xterminator tank, but a) I had fit problems with the JT chassis, and b) it threw the front/rear balance of the truck off. BTW, if you want either one of these brand new tanks CHEAP, PM me. Had to stick with the stocker.

This thing feels AMAZING... Like a whole new truck. My first track runs will be this weekend, and I have high expectations.

Here are some pics-

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

With body on-

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Here is the pic I am most proud of. This is my Maxx balancing perfectly on some thin aluminum stock. It has almost perfect 50/50 balance; probably 45/55. I can't wait to jump this thing!



Here is the leftovers from the Maxx diet-

ThermalRD

Lookin real good Dale! Maxx trucks are still awesome!

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks dude... Would be cool if we could all get together and run sometime...

fhm101

For no more than you have in it, you've got a real good looking race truck there. The only thing I would do is put some thin foam or lexan under the rec pack if you don't already have something under it. Beating around on the track will wear holes in your shrinkwrap in a very short time and you will risk shorting you pack to the chassis. Also, you may find the AE springs to be a bit on the soft side. You can use the (stock) traxxas red springs by installing in the following manner. On the bare shock, first install the AE upper spring retainer followed by the traxxas upper retainer. Next put on the red spring and use the traxxas lower spring cup. I tried the AE springs on my truck when it was in the 7.5 lb range and with the #2 pistons and 40f/45r they were just too soft and would bounce badly off jumps. Last of all, if you are running a (2.5 stock) 20T clutchbell with a 72T spur, next time you are at your LHS pick up a 18T and 19T bell and play around with the gearing. When I was running a 2.5, I ran 18/72 most of the time, but the 19 or 20 will be handy if you run on a really large track with lots of long straights. If you have trouble with it wanting to fishtail on hard acceleration, let me know and I'll hook you up with a way to build your rear diff so it will launch straight but still have plenty of steering.

fhm101

Here's a pic of what I'm running now and what i'm building for next year. The short truck in the back is what i'm running now. The long chassis is the new prototype from Pro Hobby Racing. The second pic is the new truck.

Dale Gribble

My Feedback: (4)

I COMPLETELY AGREE with what you are saying... I don't mean to trivialize it- but you know exactly what you are talking about.

The AE springs are TOO soft w/40wt and #2 pistons. I have had good luck with the Trinity Blue springs on my last Maxx- I think I will start with one on each corner first with the stock reds in the other four positions.

My track is tight and technical. I will probably go ahead with the 18t bell for now. I will let you know about the rear diff... Our next event is early November so I will see how it does. FORTUNATELY, they just expanded our MT class by seperating small block/big blocks. So that means I will just be racing REVO's and MT2s.

Those chassis are AWESOME!

ICrashThings

heh! i see the bumpers are off. I need bumpers, they are like insurance for me...but hey whatever works for ya!

Nice trucks you guys have, hopefully when i get a traxxas MT i can do cool stuff to it...[&:]

fhm101

That's great you haveenough trucks to break them out into 2 classes. Let me know how the spring combo works for you.

infernoMP

How did you get your maxx to sit that low with 40 weight oil in it? How does it handle with rideheight like that?; similar to a Revo?