bolder

Help, I'm slippin and I can't get up...... to speed
Can anyone tell me the physics of the flywheel clutch operation? Is it just personal preference or is one better than the other.

frozen

3 shoe gives more grab, 2 shoe gives less and is mostly used for racing but in all honesty, it doesn't matter. Just pick one and be happy.

bolder

Cool... how do you get slipping under control?

tRaXx-aSs

maybe its just the slipper clutch?? Try tighting it.

bolder

From stand still when it's slipping you can see the bell and spur gears turning. Once it gets moving you can get it up to some speed but never WOT

wjaw007

if it will get up to speed but not wot it could be a tuning problem. How old is the truck or how old is the clutch? Try tightening the slipper clutch a but first.

bolder

original clutch. Tightened slipper nut down all the way backed it off 1/2 turn. You have to really feather it to get speed.

ratman572

I would place my bets on either the friction pegs being worn out on the slipper clutch, -in conjunction with the friction plates being glazed up. Try replacing the pegs with new ones and break the glaze off the clutch plates with some 400 grit wet-dry paper.

Clean the plates up real good with some brake-cleaner prior to assembly, and tighten it up real good. Run the truck around for a couple of tanks, then re-tighten the slipper again just a tad.

There is also the possibility of the one-way bearing inside the tranmission (on the two-speed cluster) slipping also. That can usually be cured by cleaning the bearing out really good with some denatured or isopropal alcohol, blow it dry really good, then re-lube the bearing with some one-way bearing lube. It isn't necessary to physically remove the outer bearing-race from the two-speed cluster when cleaning and lubing it, but to do it effectively, you will need to slip the shaft out of the bearing to clean the needle and cage assembly of the bearing. Make sure though that if you do lube the bearing, to use the lube that is specifically made for one-way bearings, -it does make a difference. The one-way lube should be available at your LHS.

In regards to the engine clutch, going with aluminum shoes (be it a 2-shoe or 3-shoe setup), will definitely give more positive engagement, but will not engage quite as smoothly as the plastic shoes will. For any other guys that have ever built or run full-scale drag cars like I have, the metallic shoes are sort of like running a semi-metallic, or ceramic-lined clutch disk. They will hold up to a lot of power, but never give a totally smooth engagement like an organic-lined clutch will.

My .02

bolder

I tried replacing friction pegs, and took a scotch brite pad to the plates. Still the same. The difference btween the new pegs and the old pegs is so little it would take a tool to measure.

ratman572

That's a bummer that the slipper isn't the problem, -since it is probably the easiest thing to work on out of the three things.

Since you are actually able to get the thing to go full-tilt by feathering the throttle, it sounds like the one-way in the trans may need a little attention.

The task sounds daunting, but it ain't all that bad.

I kinda doubt it is the engine clutch, but anything is possible.

It is certainly easy enough to pull the motor out and replace the clutch shoes. Quite honestly, the stock clutch works pretty darn good. You may just want to upgrade to a two-shoe aluminum shoe setup and retain the stock flywheel. I know MIP makes their own flywheel for this sort of thing, but it is a lot heavier than the stock flywheel, so if I were you, I'd steer clear of that.

The aftermarket setup made by integy is probably mediocre like the rest of their stuff.

My advise is to keep the stock flywheel and put a two-shoe aluminum setup on it and run it. The shoes aren't all that expensive either, -like $12 for two complete pairs.

Keep at it, you'll eventually nail this gremlin down.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

Just because its easy, I would check the engine clutch first. Pull the bell off and clean it, touch the clutch shoes up with some sand paper, and reverse them (causes a slightly stronger engagement) Be sure that you oil the bearings in the bell very lightly and wipe them off good, you do not want any lube working its way into the bell or onto the shoes.

If that doesn't fix you up then dive into the one-way in the tranny. Just pay really close attention as you split the tranny. It really isn't all that complicated to reassemble if you pay attention when you take it apart. The one-way that needs attention in the tranny is in the 2-speed gear cluster, generally a good dip in denatured alcohol and a nice spray with comprseed air will do. As stated by ratman, be sure to relube it, although according to traxxas mobile one motor oil is acceptable on one-way bearings, but if you wanna play it safe pick up some one-way specific lube from the LHS. If your gonna own one of these beasts its best to learn the tranny inside-out anyway. If you egt yourself in trouble just consult the exploded views available on the traxxas website.

bolder

Thanks for all the feedback. Good stuff, hopefully I can get back off the road soon.

frozen

Tighten the slipper all the way and don't back off at all and try that.

bolder

I believe my problem to be that these clutch shoes came on the truck 6/18/04, never thought about just plain worn down.

bolder

Turned out to be the OWB in the tranny. For future reference you should be able to freely spin your spur gear in one direction and engage the tires in the other.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

I am pretty sure that is will only engage the wheels when turning the spur by hand if you have a FOC. Without a FOC, the forward/reverse clutch will not engage while turning the spur by hand, so the spur spins freely in eaither direction.

That is great advice to anyone who has a FOC though,