maxximum_overdrive

hey, i managed to break a rear bulkhead after only having my maxx for two weeks. kinda sucks. anyway, are aluminum bulkheads really worth the extra doe. i mean i know they are infinatly stronger, but at 6 or 7 times the money plus the extra weight, are they really worth it. plus once the bulks a solid won't that put extra stress on the rest of the suspension. anyway i'd just like some other people opinions before i make the final decision. any help is much appriciated.................................peace[sm=RAINFRO.gif]

allen0622

I have peronally broken about 4 plastic bulkheads in a year, and stripped a couple. If I was going to buy aluminum ones i would probably get these hybrids.
Plastic is cheap though for a part that doesn't break as often as a plastic arm does. 2cool use to offer a low cost replacement plan for stuff, can't seem to find it right now on the site though. Aluminum isn't indestructible but the design looks really nice.
http://www.2coolrc.com/Model_T-Maxx/bulks.html[link=http://www.2coolrc.com/images/Products/Fast%20Lane/BulkDiffs.jpg]Hybrids[/link]

maxximum_overdrive

that is accually the exact bulk i was looking at.............it looks pretty slick. does anyone out there accually have them? it looks like a pretty tough part. but if anyone has them i would love to hear the pros and cons on them before i drop the doe.

.21RC10GT

I have the fastlane machine bulkless setup. It kicks ass, and you cant beat their replacement plan.

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Well i have heard things like buying aluminium transfers the weak sport to somewhere else. People say after they buy alum bulkheads they snap chassis and chassis braces and different things hear and there. And finaly conclude with id rather break a 5 dollar bulkhead.

diirtbag

My Feedback: (3)

aluminum bulkheads are one of the few aluminum parts I would say are neccesary if you go big,and run youre truck hard,and aluminum chassis braces and metal skids which are neccesary with aluminum bulkheads.I have a few with that set up and rpm arms and knuckles,very tough trucks, I have broke a few rpm arms and knuckles, but so far bulkheads and chassis braces are straight.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

I think they are a good idea, just because they are such a pain to replace. Yes, they may result in braking the chassis, but if you hit something hard enough to break the chassis, you should be expecting expensive, difficult repairs anyway. Also, if you worried about transfering damage to the chassis, you can always just attach the aluminum bulkhead to the chassis using soft screws, that way rather than breaking the bulkhead or the chassis, you will just shear off the screws. Just be sure to buy bulks with open ended screw holes and use long enough screws that after they shear off you will be able to grab them from the bottom with vice grips to remove them. I already sheared off all 4 screws that hold my bulkhead to the chassis. I hit a landscaping timber topped out in first, and it sheared off all four screws. I just unscrewed the top halfs, and then grabbed the bottom halfs with vice grips and twisted them out. Dropped 4 new cheap stainless hexes in and off I went.

maxximum_overdrive

thanks for the input guys, i think i'm just going to go back stock for now, and start an "aluminum parts fund". my wife is already pretty pisses that i dropped 400 bucks on the truck, and then broke it two weeks later. this way i can put a little back here and there, and she'll never know that i've spent that much money on replacements, cause you know you gotta keep your woman in the dark about some things.......lol anyway......................thanks aggain for y'alls opinions...................................peace[sm=RAINFRO.gif]

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Have fun

KILLMAXX

Well unless you have some type of screw that will not break off in side the bulkhead i'd say stick with stock(i've gone through 2 set's of alu bulkheads,and with screws breaking and bending chassis there just not worth it IMO)I'd just rather switch out a stock one than go trying to drill out another broken screw from the chassis mount on the bulkhead.Or mabey i just go WAY to big for the maxx...........but i dont think so,i never had this prob with stock BH's.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

If you have aluminum bulks with an open screw hole, all you need to do is use long enough screws so that they stick out of the holes, that way if they sheer off you can just grab them from the underside with vice grips and twist em out, alternatively, you can also use a dremmel and a cutting wheel to cut slots in them and then just twist em through with a regular flathead screwdriver. I use really soft cheap screws on my blukheads and when I nail something hard they typically give, so I just replace the screws. It works out really well, replacing four screws only takes a couple minutes, but replacing the bulks usually meant I was out of commision for the day.

schmism

I have RC solutions AL front bulk. Havnt broken a rear yet so dont have an AL rear.



[link=http://www.rc-solutions.com/]linky linky[/link]

Id highly recomend them. Id like to run the verison with the reinforcement plate in the rear because im on my 3 set of TI hing pings. but I dont have the room with my proline steering upgrade

Jump_till_it_breaks

I had aluminum bulkheads, but they bent and stripped out. I think they are not worth the money, because you would have to break around five or six sets of stock bulkheads to equal the cost of the aluminum ones. I break the stock bulkheads quite often when launching my truck, but I beat the trash out of my truck, and the aluminums would probably bend from these impacts. If you usually don't hit big jumps, then aluminum bulkheads might suit you if you want that cool look and increased strength under normal running conditions.

schmism

Ive bent 2 sets of titainium hing pins that were installed in in that AL bulk. No probs with the bulkheads. teeked the chassey slightly but nothing rong with the AL blukheads.