porschefan911

would the deere T105CLE engine be good for this project..oh yah and a tmaxx?

M007GUNIT

My Feedback: (1)

Yes it wouldbe good it is a good size and if it has a clutch it will be perfect. I think DR Honda already this with the same engine in the first few pages of this thread

Yonco

If i had the choice to make one of these, should i get a monster pirate or Ek4? i got a freind who has a rolleer of both i could get cheap! which should i make one out of? I think it will be difficult because of the way the driveshafts are. Do you think i could just run a driveshaft from the clutch to the rear diff and only have rwd?? Which truck would be easier to do this? -Jon

Acs_guitars

My Feedback: (3)

Hey guys.... I am sorry for the absence lately and for still not having the write-up done and posted. I started a second job and for atleast the next few weeks I will be working 75+ hour work weeks with out even weekends off. Sorry to delay for those guys that I know are waiting.

porschefan911

Hey guys, here is my plan, I'm buying a tmaxx roller, I have a cnc mill so i will extend the chassis by almost 2 times and try to find an engine but my question is...how do you make it 4wd? with such a big gap between the gear box and front wheels

Acs_guitars

My Feedback: (3)

If you can fab a chassis, then a custom length drive shaft should be fairly simple. Either put 2 t-maxx shafts together or make a steel dogbone and use aftermarket steel drive cups.

Look at Doc's Mega-Maxx to see what he did. The problem with making it that big is you will have to use 1/5th scale bodies (from FG of clones) and they are pricey.

porschefan911

who needs bodies lol...i'm known for my roll cages did I mention i have a lathe too so i can make myself so aluminum shafts

Acs_guitars

My Feedback: (3)

Personally, I would want steel shafts... These engines would break an aluminium shaft VERY quickly because unlike high reving nitro engines they have ALOT of torque.

Yonco

A question for anyone who has made these!!! HELP, before i start i would like to know about the gearing, would it be possible to run the clutch straight to the driveshaft and to the rear diff?? would it be geared close? or does a tmaxx tranny gear it up/down differently?? Ideas on mounting this to a monster pirate?? -Jon

Yonco

So, i just bought a roller maxx for this, without a tranny. What kind of tranny will i need/ or will work to do this?? The Tmaxx tranny has the spring out before it goes( if ya caatch what im saying) the sprang deal. Will it work with that or do i have to get a s maxx tranny? or dhow do i stop the spring deal?? -Jon

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Hey guys. Drug out our old Weedeater brand weedeater the other day. Its a little long with the clutch assembly, and all, but I think i can trim a little more plastic off of it, and build my own muffler/exhaust to shorten it up a few inches anyway. Im trying to get it running right, as of now, but i feel like once I get the carburetor cleaned out, it will run fine. I can get it to run now, but i think its starving for fuel because i cant get it tuned in right at all. Im gonna pull the carb tomorrow, and clean it out some more hopefully. I cant wait to get this sucker running. Also; on a 2 stroke weedeater motor; it doesent need a muffler/backpressure, right? I think I may build my own exhaust(possibly stacks) out of copper pipe depending on if I can use my Body, or if i build a full cage and run without a body. So the only thing holding me back right now is the motor not running good yet, and then when i get it running right, I will start working on the mounting it to the frame, and working out the driveline. May have to go 2wd, but I hope not. I cant wait to get this going[8D] Keep pics and vid's of your's coming guys. This may bring me back into the hobby to stay for a good while if it works out right.

Eric

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Well; pulled the needles out on my weedeater today, and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner through each one. Put them back in,a nd it is running much better. I can now get it to idle, and it will rev right up as soon as I hit the throttle, but it still is not exactly right. Much better than before though. Im almost afraid my motor is too long. How long are the motors you guys are using from very back to very front of clutch? Im going to try to make this work; I just may have to extend it more than i wanted to. For all i care; I will build a nice cage and forget the body though. The only problem I have with it running right now is that I can go from idle to rev, back to half throttle, and rev, and then back to half throttle and try to rev again(doing all this really fast); and it doesent want to rev up again. Like it is choking out. I played with the needles, and no luck yet, but I will mess with it some more later. Also the throttle is really touchy. Seems like you just barely have to move it for it to go wide open; but all in all i think I can make it work.

Eric

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

Someone mentioned about the Center Drive Shafts. What ideas have you guys thought of on how to make or adapt a driveshaft to fit the extra length. I will not continue to move forward with my gasser unless I make it 4WD. The Gear box to the front drive will be easy as it will be closer to the drive and should be able to find something that will work. The Gearbox to the rear drive however may show more of a trouble spot, so I was cuious as to what you guys either thought about doing, or have done.

My thoughts are on actually using my Drill press, and a Disk sander, or Cutoff tool, to "lathe" a shaft, for both front and back. Fit directly onto the output shafts of the Diff and Gearbox. This should work because the shaft doesnt need to slide at all. No movement should be ok...Right???..lol Please let me know what you think of this and possibly if I have missed something that might be eaier.

thanks guys.

Yonco

T maxx trannys are expensive... Has anyone thought about a Laydown stadium truck trans? i got a few from a hpi rush laying around i wanna see. If they have a ratio of 2.81:1 and a tmaxx has 25:1 how will this work??? i dont see how the maxx tranny could have so different ratio, if the rustlers run same motor , close to same gearing, different trannys, with way diff ratio's and they still are within 20 mph of eachother?? would a laydown tranny with a locked diff work? Why are the gearing ratio's so different?? -Jon

pfiftyonenut

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northriverflames

Hey Acs guitars hows that write up goin? Not to rush you or anything, but im curious to see how you made yours!

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Hey guys. For those of you that have done this already. How long are your Engines with the clutch, muffler, carb, etc on them? Im afraid my weedeater is going to be too long.[] Its 10.5 inches with everything I can cut(plastic wise) cut, and trimmed. Motor is running good, and clutch is working great; Its just too long unless I extend the frame about 7 inches which I guess is what I will try to do as bad as I hate to. I have an old McCullough chainsaw I tore apart too; but the carb is pretty messed up on it I think. It is much more compact though; and I thought about trying a chain drive with it, but I really want a 2 speed tranny, and plus the clutch is different on it. I dont know. Im still thinking about what im gonna do. Thanks for any help.

Eric

pfiftyonenut

hey dr. honda

i was trying to get some info on new era models 1/6 scale t-maxx conversion when i found this tread. this is awsome!!! just what the doc ordered (lol). i know the chassis conversion and converting to gas ain't gonna be cheap but it seem like so much more room to work with when there is 8 extra inches on the chassis. is there anybody out there that has any info on this chassis conversion??? and what are you guys thought on converting this chassis to gas??

Yonco

What have you guys thought about doing with shocks besides just replacing the corner springs? I got a roller with no shocks and was curious if 1/8 monster poirate or some buggy/ofna shocks would work? just 4 of them? -Jon PS: How do i disable the spring thing in the tranny? how do i lock it? cant figure it out? -Jon

M007GUNIT

My Feedback: (1)

ACS,
where are the pics? very interested seeing other gassers.

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

Hi guys,

Sorry I’ve been away for so long… but life got in the way… but I’m back.

OK this may seem a bit broken up… but I’m just going to answer some random questions without any connection to the original post.

First… The sprag on the forward/reverse gear sucks. Get rid of it, and replace it with a “forward only” gear. If you don’t… the mass of the weed eater engine is enough to just rip it out once it engages.

Second… You don’t really need to have any in-out movement on the driveshaft. That is… as long as your chassis is stiff enough. If you have any flex in your chassis… you will crush your trany, or diff. You can make a longer driveshaft by using a stock plastic shaft, and putting an aluminum tube around it… or by pounding in a square steel shaft. (it’s hollow) Either way… you will retain some of the stock spline section so it can slip in and out.

Third… you can do what ever you want with the shocks. If you can fit 1/8th scale buggy shock on… go for it. Just make sure they have enough travel. A set of black Trinity springs is only $8.

Forth… Yes I’ve seen the big chassis conversion… actually, I’ve built my own. A full 1/6th scale stretch. The problem with it… and the problem most of the guys that push the chassis length too far is… you break too may plastic parts. The long chassis will allow you to hold the throttle wide open for long periods of time. That, combined with the massive torque from the weed eater engine just overheat the driveshafts, and tranys. Eventually something will pop. (normally in one tanke of fuel) The short truck doesn’t handle well enough to hold it wide open for very long… this saves the drive train.

Last response… You want a short engine. My little John Deere engine is only 6.5” long. (starter to the end of the clutch. Most other small engines are around 8”. That’s why I never released a complete kit. I couldn’t get the engine I wanted without buying an entire weed eater. Well… if I go straight to Mitsubishi, I could buy them 500 at a time. (don’t have that kind of money sitting around)

OK… now for an update from me. Because of the problem with “long engines”… I am redesigning the chassis and braces to allow a standard Zenoah type engine to be used. They aren’t cheap… but they can be gotten off of eBay for a reasonable price. (the Chinese knock-offs are around $100) Also… the biggest problem I’m having… and the few people who own my hand built trucks… is that it’s hard to keep the stock plastic drive shafts from melting. Well… that will no longer be a problem. Also… I’m going to drive the transmission with either a belt, or a chain so things don’t have to line up perfectly any more. Keep your eye out for the prototype parts to appear.

Good luck with your projects.

Nburr

Hey Acs, don't mean to be pushy, but are u still planning on having a how-to for these? I'm really looking forward to doing it, but would love to see a solid step by step to help my simple mind. Also, I was wondering how these handle. Are they extremely top-heavy? Anyways, I think that the convenience would be worth it, even if they tip over easily. And finally, I wonder if you could use resistors or capacators to use the electrical current generated by the motor to charge the rx hump pack? I think that that would be almost the perfect low-maintenance setup. Sorry for long post

Torax

Im ready to start with this awesome project but i have a few questions first. Would a 25 cc homelite work, can someone explain the engine to tranny connection a little better also is daimond plate strong enough to extend the chassis??
Thanks

D0G

My Feedback: (1)

I used a Piece if Diamond plate for the whole chassis, if thats what you mean. And the same chassis braces as the 2.5, you will also have to make a new front and rear skid plate to extend the inch or 2 (depending on how long your chassis is) I havent had any problems with it so far, I however dont have a Gasser so I am not sure about the weight. Something else to think about is when you drill your holes to mount everything you will have to grind down the 'diamonds' so the screws sit flush. I used a Dremmel and that worked fine. But as for the strength, just by feeling it, it feels actually weaker then the chassis I had before. But again, I am not a metal expert, I have no flex, and havent bent it.....yet...lol.

Torax

Does anybody know if homelites have internal clutches because i really need to know