LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

took NucStrike (lol name for my Ofna Hyper .21 Maxx) out today. first I keep losing the wheel nuts on the front. second I had to stop cause no more nuts but also the rear stopped turning when i would try to accelerate. shaft wasn't broke and i could turn it by hand. when off it still looks to work fine. rotate the rear and the front turns too. any ideas on my problem. when on the front would spin like crazy but the rear would do nothing

ProfitOfDoom

Did you strip the wheel hex thing out,,or the wheel it self?

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

neither. the nuts just come off. both times was left front. lost a knck off nut the switched the rest to stock nuts and lost one of them too. like they need to be oposite thread direction

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

well tore apart the rear diff. lol guess that Hyper .21 has too much torque cause the screws attaching the ring to the diff cup were sheard. now i need a new diff cup. might aswell tear apart the front and replace it before it tears apart too. Any suggestions on what to use. UE looks nice but expensive. have RRP ring and pinions.

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

noone has suggestions?

les_222

I have had that problem two with my t maxx.

Parts that i use in my diffs are: Robinson racing Ring/pinion (mod. bigger screws), Aluiminum diff cup, The ultra diff maximizer, and alluiminum diff housings to limit flex ( 4 points to screw it together).


The price breakdown for a complete diff:

$ 85.00 on ebay from RCBOYS RRP ring?pinion Alluminum diff cup and the ultra diff maximizer(alows you to set up your diff to act like a solid axle and also have the abilty to slip when needed. No gears in the diff cup used with this). Also it comes with bigger screws and moddified gear to acceped the bigger screws to prevent breakage.


Also if you have not did your transmission yet. Id recomend go Robinson racing gears in the tranny.

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

haven't done the tranny yet. was running RRP ring and pinion with aluminum cups. but i got the 2mm screws guess i should have gotten the modded ones with 3mm

how do you like that ultra diff from maximizer. i was looking at that.

on the tranny i am alittle confused with the RRP its like they sell them for the 15 Maxx then throw in some 2.5 parts, if some one could just tell me what to get (part numbers) to do the full tranny (forward only) in metal gears


also does that maximizer for 1 diff or do they supply for both

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

ok so now i am really confused. if i get the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=RRPC8586&P=7]Robinson Racing Steel Forward Only Gear Kit T-Maxx 2.5[/link] it requires [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDRH6&P=V]Robinson Racing Steel Forward Primary Gear T-Maxx 2.5[/link] and then that requires [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=8522&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go]Robinson Racing Aluminum Reverse Primary Gear T-Maxx [/link] now if i am wrong or their site is wrong let me know

also why don't they make steel 2-speed gears. sounds little messed up to have all those other steel gears and not replace the plastic speed gears

les_222

Ok here is what you need to go forward only in your t maxx like i did.

forward only gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/T-maxx-Hardened-...QQcmdZViewItem

primary forward only gear: http://cgi.ebay.com/T-maxx-2-5-Steel...QQcmdZViewItem

2 speed top shaft: http://cgi.ebay.com/T-maxx-Hardened-...QQcmdZViewItem

You dont use the primary reverse gear when you go (forward only).

You get rid of the fork, hub, reverse gear, boot on outside of tranny, and idle gear.

I noticed my tranny moves a lot freely now since i removed all those parts. A lot of weight. It comes with instructions.

they do not make the other set of 2 speed steal gears for a reason. I can think of is to have a weak point so you dont screw up your engine.

If you use the RRP gear diff you have you have to drill it out to use the 3mm screws. You will need to use a Pure titaninum drill bit to drill it out. Not a coated drill bit. Get the drill from home depot.

That is the price for one complete diff with the maximzer modded 3mm..
here is a pic with traxxas gears..

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-E-Maxx-Ultra-D...QQcmdZViewItem

Rc boys also sells it with RRP, but i did not see any on there right now.. You would have to email them..


As far as how the maximizer is i got the diff together and it locks the diff great and spins when needed. I just have not tried it in the field yet. I tried it by hand I just got the maxizer installed. I just finished a totally upgrated Big block max. After i am done i am going out to try it out.


Any more questions please ask..


I have a question for you t maxx jumper... how is the Ofna hyper .21? Did you leave the pull start? I got one in a deal but it needs a new piston/sleeve.

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

its great. i ordered the Ofna Torgue starter [link=http://www.ofna.com/start-torque.html]check it out here[/link]

yea i have an S-Maxx tranny that its all going in. I also converted my T-Maxx tranny with Traxxas FOC, but the reverse primary has to stay on because of the way it pins to the shaft. that was another thing that was confusing me

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

Regardless of your diff problems/fix options....it sounds like you DO indeed have a stripped wheel/hex problem as well. As far as I know, the ONLY thing that causes repeated loss of wheel nuts is when the hex spins within the wheel.

Either the hex gets rounded down & spins within the wheel, or the wheel is stripped & the hex spins inside (more likely...'specially if you have alum. hexes).

What I did w/my stripped RPM wheel was to take a spare plastic hex & glue it into the wheel w/JB Weld. Then you just mount it directly on the pin...it's held up for 2 years!!

Dean

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

wheel it wasn't stripped but it does wiggle more than the stock hexs. have the perma extended ones. but i think gonna just glue the hexs in the wheels.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

'wiggling'=stripped.

The wheel 'hex-recepticle' doesn't have to be round, nor does the hex hafta look worn down...if there's play when they meet, that means under load, the hex is turning within the wheel.

You should really just toss those extended hexes....widening your stance doesn't to that much to prevent rollovers, but they DO reduce your steering radius a fair amount. And if you're stuck on that, get the offset RPM wheels.

Get alum. hexes & if your wheels is partially stripped, then glue a REGULAR plastic hex into the wheel. Better yet, save up & get the 23mm hexes & wheels, as you'll probby strip a fair amount of wheels/hexes w/a hot engine.

Easy for me to say...I have the OFNA/Picco .21 and still haven't jumped to that....not only are the hexes $$, but you need new wheels, too!. but then again, I've only stripped one wheel, and I think that was because I didn't fully 'seat' the hex before tightening the nut...that's KEY!!

Dean

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

well these LST tires are perfect for my build. if i can find some offset wheels that the tires fit on then it would be perfect

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

I dunno if Losi tires are designed to fit on std. Maxx-style rims or not. I don't think they're '40 Series' size, as Losi now makes NEW wheels specific to that size of tire (which means the OLD wheels are not '40'.

I THINK the REGULAR LST tires fit on std. maxx wheels...check in the Losi MT forum to be sure. If they do, here are the wheels I recommend ("StableMaxx" ones, not Std...I linked to the whole selection, not just one model):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&P=0&C=CJARPM

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

maxx are 3.2" and LST are 3.4" and yea was thinking about the stable maxx. maybe if i glue them real good i won't have problems, heck people modify the tires

les_222

Ok i am back. The reverse primary comes off the shaft. It the same as my t maxxshaft... I looked it up on the traxxas website. Heck just buy a new shaft for 3 dollars and put the new forward primary gear on that... It tells you how to fix it to the shaft>. easy.... I used a little ca clue when i put the pin through the gear.


shaft primary: https://buytraxxas.com/product_info....15f8cf7656c349

I started my ofna .26 force big block motor today for the first time and it screams.. I made a mistake though and put the diffs in backwards when buildling this.. It went reverse with a forward only. whoops...

keep me posted t maxx jumper